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Well as fate would have it the front pinion seal decided to leak after everything was re-installed. My instincts were right but I allowed someone to talk me out of replacing the pinion seal along with side yoke seals while unit was out. We did side yoke seals only.
Now It is driving me nuts! Plus I need to sell my baby and I hate to leave this for the next owner.
I was able to remove the drivers side exhaust but the passenger side will not separate.
Can I get the differential out without messing up my pretty chassis with the one side of the exhaust still in place?
I got a price of $500 or basically 5 hours of labor to replace the pinion seal with differential in the car. The shop would have the proper tools.
I cannot really get it up high enough to do the pinion seal with differential installed myself. I also just do not have the tools either.
Already tried the ATP to try and get the seal to rejuvenate. It helped a bit but not enough.
Yes you can but it depends on how much you want take off the differential so it is not in the way of coming out from under the car. I recently had to do one due to the exhaust was welded all together and I could not do jack squat with it..and I got the differential out and back in...but I also had to remove the differential cross member while it was in the car and the differential dropped a bit so I can gain access to the four bolts that hold the crossmember to the rear end cover.
For what it is worth. I have read numerology forum threads on this and from what I gather form those who have done it successfully is that it takes no special tools. The most important thing is to carefully mark the nut and shaft and count the number of turns it takes to remove it.....if the shop you talked to was going to leave it in the car and servic e it.
If they were going to take it all a part and remove the carrier...then that is something esle entirely different.
I have successfully removed the differential twice without dropping the cross member.
Reposting this:
An alternative method to get the differential out without removing the crossmember is to use a flat ratcheting wrench and a deep hex socket. I do not remember the size. See below. It fits between the body and the crossmember but you do need to be a little adept with your fingers, etc.
Additionally some long bolts with the heads cut off and loosely held serve to reposition it going back in.
Why might you choose this? Well when I pulled the body off I had to pound on my 45 year old crossmember with a sledge to get it out. These things don't always just pop out. Of course going back in you'll want new rubber insulators so that is certainly a consideration, as they also are a bitch to get out.
The only real downside is you can't correctly torque the mounting bolts. But in 10 years of hard use, it never loosened on me.
Yes you can but it depends on how much you want take off the differential so it is not in the way of coming out from under the car. I recently had to do one due to the exhaust was welded all together and I could not do jack squat with it..and I got the differential out and back in...but I also had to remove the differential cross member while it was in the car and the differential dropped a bit so I can gain access to the four bolts that hold the crossmember to the rear end cover.
For what it is worth. I have read numerology forum threads on this and from what I gather form those who have done it successfully is that it takes no special tools. The most important thing is to carefully mark the nut and shaft and count the number of turns it takes to remove it.....if the shop you talked to was going to leave it in the car and servic e it.
If they were going to take it all a part and remove the carrier...then that is something esle entirely different.
DUB
Well I may consider doing the seal replacement with differential in place.
When you tap the seal in to place some have said not to tap the seal in flush with the carrier. Others say it should have about 1/8" between the seal and carrier.
Funny thing is the oil is leaking through the splines.
Which way is correct?
Kind Regards,
Bill
Last edited by 1974ta; 08-16-2017 at 09:37 PM.
Reason: More info
Well I may consider doing the seal replacement with differential in place.
When you tap the seal in to place some have said not to tap the seal in flush with the carrier. Others say it should have about 1/8" between the seal and carrier.
Funny thing is the oil is leaking through the splines.
Which way is correct?
Kind Regards,
Bill
Bill,
The seal you install will show you how deep it can go to the flange lip on the seal....then you have to look at the recess that has been cut into the housing and it will show you how far it can go. The width of the seal is what you are looking at.
So...depending on the type of rear seal you install will let you know if you can tap it in flush or level it out that approximate 1/8".
I would have to contact Gary R in if the oil is coming out of the splines because I have never had to apply a sealant at the nut...but he might have a great tip for that or know why it is leaking....or might even say to apply a sealant there
On your leak, would it be possible that the bolts holding the spring on have been driven thru the rear cover. If a crack is in the bolt area of the cover that could create a leak?
The seal you install will show you how deep it can go to the flange lip on the seal....then you have to look at the recess that has been cut into the housing and it will show you how far it can go. The width of the seal is what you are looking at.
So...depending on the type of rear seal you install will let you know if you can tap it in flush or level it out that approximate 1/8".
I would have to contact Gary R in if the oil is coming out of the splines because I have never had to apply a sealant at the nut...but he might have a great tip for that or know why it is leaking....or might even say to apply a sealant there
DUB
Thank you DUB.
I read and reread Gary's paper. What is interesting is in my Chassis Service manual it talks about a sealant in the spines of the yoke.
I think I am going tot get it up on a lift and try do do the seal in the car. That is what GM shows in the chassis manual as well.
On your leak, would it be possible that the bolts holding the spring on have been driven thru the rear cover. If a crack is in the bolt area of the cover that could create a leak?
It could indeed create a leak. I had already checked that out and it no longer drips on my garage floor when sitting. When I drive her and pull in the garage then I get 4-5 good sized drips and have to wipe down the underside around where the yoke spins.
Pretty sure it is pushing oil up the spines and out.
Kind Regards,
Bill
Last edited by 1974ta; 08-19-2017 at 12:49 AM.
Reason: spelling
08-16-2017, 05:20 PM
Differential Removal wth Exhaust Installed?
