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Oil on plugs after rebuild.

Old 01-08-2018, 10:33 AM
  #321  
san
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
I should get my car back today or tomorrow. They had to replace the AC hose since it was leaking.

I do have a question about connection rods for my L82. Were the L82 Connecting Rods different from the L48 Rods in 1978?
​​​​​​​I heard they were pink.....hahahaha but most builders pitched then for new ones ive been told.
Old 01-08-2018, 05:27 PM
  #322  
LenWoodruff
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Originally Posted by san
​​​​​​​I heard they were pink.....hahahaha but most builders pitched then for new ones ive been told.
I thought the L82 came with the "pink" rods. I am just trying to confirm that and what the differences were.
Old 01-08-2018, 05:42 PM
  #323  
calwldlife
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yes, pink marked rods good.
from the beginning i thought it was an intake mani issue.
skimmed the last few pages.
so what is the current state of affairs?
Old 01-08-2018, 05:57 PM
  #324  
LenWoodruff
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Originally Posted by calwldlife
yes, pink marked rods good.
from the beginning i thought it was an intake mani issue.
skimmed the last few pages.
so what is the current state of affairs?
I should get the car back Tuesday or Wednesday, They just had do some unrelated AC work.

But the machine shop swap out the connecting rods with ones that were more evenly balanced.

I was just concerned how to determine if I still have the "pink" rods?
Old 01-08-2018, 07:17 PM
  #325  
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Wow, I read the whole thread, post by post today. What a saga!!! This peeked my interest since I too seem to be loosing about a quart every 200 miles on a freshly rebuilt engine. I only put about 400 miles and not sure how pervasive or serious this problem is. Unfortunately, due to other issues, I cannot drive it until I solve some other problems first. I hope your issue gets resolved this time for good. In the mean time,
Old 01-08-2018, 10:46 PM
  #326  
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
I should get the car back Tuesday or Wednesday, They just had do some unrelated AC work.

But the machine shop swap out the connecting rods with ones that were more evenly balanced.

I was just concerned how to determine if I still have the "pink" rods?
Ugh, this shop sounds better all the time.
After all you've already gone through, they just now decided the connecting rods weren't "evenly balanced"?! Really?
What exactly did they do when they rebuilt your motor?
We've got pages of what they didn't do.. Unbelievable.

I really feel for you Len, these guys claim to be machinists and all they've done is taken you for a ride. I hate reading stuff like this..
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Old 01-10-2018, 04:55 PM
  #327  
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Yea!. The car is back home in my garage. I have only driven it about 15 miles so far. I plan to take a long ride Friday.

I would like to get 300 miles on it to confirm that the oil usage issues has been resolved.
Old 01-11-2018, 07:46 AM
  #328  
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I hope it is all fixed, if not I think you need to look for a new shop.
Good luck I know this has been painful
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Old 01-11-2018, 08:21 AM
  #329  
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this is why you should by a new GM crate engine with a warranty and stick your worn out one in the corner of the garage.
Old 01-11-2018, 08:32 AM
  #330  
LenWoodruff
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Originally Posted by PAmotorman
this is why you should by a new GM crate engine with a warranty and stick your worn out one in the corner of the garage.
Certainly in hindsight it would have been have been a less stressful choice.
Old 01-11-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by PAmotorman
this is why you should by a new GM crate engine with a warranty and stick your worn out one in the corner of the garage.

Don't fool yourself, there's shop's that can easily handle this type of project, but the customer has to do the research to find a competent shop.

Last edited by Vortecpro; 01-11-2018 at 10:25 AM.
Old 01-11-2018, 01:40 PM
  #332  
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Originally Posted by Vortecpro
Don't fool yourself, there's shop's that can easily handle this type of project, but the customer has to do the research to find a competent shop.
A competent shop/mechanic can build an engine with closer tolerances than a mass produced engine will have.

Mike
Old 01-11-2018, 01:52 PM
  #333  
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Originally Posted by v2racing
A competent shop/mechanic can build an engine with closer tolerances than a mass produced engine will have.

Mike
i have toured the plant that builds the corvette engine and they have machines that reads in millions of a inch and computer controlled torque wrenches. the pistons come in on the rods with the rings already install and lapped in so they do not need a break in to prevent oil burning. the plus is you get all new parts not recondition ones

Last edited by PAmotorman; 01-13-2018 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:26 PM
  #334  
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I drove the car about 50 miles yesterday. As I was driving home the engine started marking a ticking sound.

I found that several of the exhaust manifold bolts were not tightened. So I tight those but that din't make any difference.

Does this sound like an exhaust or valve train issue?

Here is a link to the noise I am hearing.

https://public.fotki.com/retabeth/78...13-110705.html

Last edited by LenWoodruff; 01-13-2018 at 12:38 PM.
Old 01-13-2018, 01:26 PM
  #335  
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Collapsed hydraulic lifter if you are lucky.....

You are a *very patient* man, I admire you for that! I would've thrown the towel long, long ago and gone with a crate engine.
Old 01-13-2018, 01:53 PM
  #336  
LenWoodruff
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Originally Posted by Lagonia
Collapsed hydraulic lifter if you are lucky.....

You are a *very patient* man, I admire you for that! I would've thrown the towel long, long ago and gone with a crate engine.
Anyway to check for a collapsed lifter?
Old 01-13-2018, 02:07 PM
  #337  
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Default Major bummer!

You can remove a valve cover, might be a loose rocker or bent part.
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Old 01-13-2018, 04:28 PM
  #338  
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Your best bet is to actually see the valvetrain running at idle. Purchase 8 rocker arm clips that contain oil spray from the rocker. Remove one valve cover only, stick a narrow piece of bent cardboard between the valvesprings and the gasket pad. With the clips in place, start it up and look-listen to whats going on. Look for a valve that doesn't open as far as the others. Maybe a rocker stud pulled out, broken spring, bad lifter, bent pushrod, who knows?

And please stay away from that misnamed auto shop. Exhaust bolts loose? Unacceptable.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 01-13-2018 at 04:29 PM.
Old 01-13-2018, 06:32 PM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
I drove the car about 50 miles yesterday. As I was driving home the engine started marking a ticking sound.

I found that several of the exhaust manifold bolts were not tightened. So I tight those but that din't make any difference.

Does this sound like an exhaust or valve train issue?

Here is a link to the noise I am hearing.

https://public.fotki.com/retabeth/78...13-110705.html
After listening again, you are running a V7. One cyl is lazy.
Loose rocker arm I believe. But why? By chance, was Zinc added to the oil before this last rebuild?

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 01-13-2018 at 06:34 PM.
Old 01-13-2018, 07:56 PM
  #340  
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Originally Posted by Lagonia
Collapsed hydraulic lifter if you are lucky.....

You are a *very patient* man, I admire you for that! I would've thrown the towel long, long ago and gone with a crate engine.
I think we all have learned Len is a very nice person!

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