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When they tightened it...did they mention if they felt any resistance. Meaning...if the nut has lost some of its grip to hold its position or not.
I have gone into adjust someones valves and I can feel that the lock nut ( so-to-speak) has lost a lot of grip and I can tell when I turn it when the rocker is loose but there are still threads going through the nut.
DUB
I watched them do it. It was tight and took some effort to turn it the additional 3/4 to quiet the lifter.
My only concern was that now this rocker arm nut has more threads showing than any of the others.
Last edited by LenWoodruff; 01-20-2018 at 05:44 PM.
I watched them do it. It was tight and took some effort to turn it the additional 3/4 to quiet the lifter.
My only concern was that now this rocker arm nut has more threads showing than any of the others.
I believe I read that you have screw in studs...so it is not being pulled out.
Also knowing that you have about 2500 miles on them....then...either leave it alone and hope it is good. Or...tear back into it and see if a lobe on the cam is worn...or bent push rod...or collapsed lifter that is not coming all the way back up to the top when the push rod is removed.
I want to thank everyone for their support & advice doing this very trying process of getting my engine oil usage corrected after the rebuild.
I have had the car back for a couple of weeks and have finally been able to put a little over 300 miles on the engine since the heads were put back on with the PTFE valve seals.
I haven't used any oil usage during those 300 miles so I would have to say that the oil usage problem has been resolved.
Thanks again to everyone.
Last edited by LenWoodruff; 02-02-2018 at 08:56 AM.
I came back to this thread after a couple of years. I'm thinking I have the same problem so I'm glad there was a resolution, however painful the journey was. These plugs were in for 4 years / 7000 miles and motor uses about a quart every 300 miles. Shop that rebuilt it went out of business due to a death in the ownership but was a reputable place. Had new rings put in and change intake before they closed up, I think valve seals is the only thing left that makes sense.
I have built a few engines and have re searched the difference in cast and moly rings. As I understand Molly’s rings are more slippery to improve friction, however I have read that sometimes if the cylinders are not honed correctly that the rings will not seat properly and they can start to burn oil. So I always run Hastings cast rings. I haven’t had any problems. Just something to consider.
01-20-2018, 05:43 PM
