Oil on plugs after rebuild.
#281
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#282
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Food for thought:
Were $20 headgaskets used or $100 gaskets?
Were the headgaskets installed upside-down?
Was thread sealer applied to the headbolts?
Was thread sealer applied to the intake bolts?
(another possibility of coolant introduction)
Were the headbolts torqued & retorqued properly?
Was the cyl head waterport & gasket RTVed where it meets the intake?
Were $20 headgaskets used or $100 gaskets?
Were the headgaskets installed upside-down?
Was thread sealer applied to the headbolts?
Was thread sealer applied to the intake bolts?
(another possibility of coolant introduction)
Were the headbolts torqued & retorqued properly?
Was the cyl head waterport & gasket RTVed where it meets the intake?
This time I don't know but they should have done those steps.
#283
Le Mans Master
I'd let it set overnight and drop the oil. The water/antifreeze/coolant will come out first. And I'm not real sure about your builder telling you it's OK to drive the 15 miles or so home. Antifreeze kills bearings double quick.
#284
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
He got the benefit of the doubt first time by blaming machine shop.
But this is too obvious.
If it was me doing the work, I would have checked and checked and triple checked knowing what you went thru.
Tough situation as you do not want him touching your engine again but then you don't want to sue him either.
Then you still have the problem to deal with.
Has this guy done work for you before? Does anyone else recommend his work?
You may have already answered this...I just don't want to re-read the whole thread.
Good luck sir.....
#286
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#287
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sorry Len.....but I agree.
He got the benefit of the doubt first time by blaming machine shop.
But this is too obvious.
If it was me doing the work, I would have checked and checked and triple checked knowing what you went thru.
Tough situation as you do not want him touching your engine again but then you don't want to sue him either.
Then you still have the problem to deal with.
Has this guy done work for you before? Does anyone else recommend his work?
You may have already answered this...I just don't want to re-read the whole thread.
Good luck sir.....
He got the benefit of the doubt first time by blaming machine shop.
But this is too obvious.
If it was me doing the work, I would have checked and checked and triple checked knowing what you went thru.
Tough situation as you do not want him touching your engine again but then you don't want to sue him either.
Then you still have the problem to deal with.
Has this guy done work for you before? Does anyone else recommend his work?
You may have already answered this...I just don't want to re-read the whole thread.
Good luck sir.....
#288
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
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There is always another county, another town, another shop, another mechanic. Sometimes being loyal, is a royal pain in the . . . . .
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 12-10-2017 at 10:33 AM.
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#289
Le Mans Master
Yes, antifreeze will settle to the bottom of the pan as long as it's not been emulsified in the oil. After it sits overnight, loosen the drain plug and let the coolant out, or better yet let it all out and get it towed to the shop. Nothing good will come from running it!
#290
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Is there more than one mechanic involved?
Do you have anyone else you know that has had them build an engine?
Changing oil, doing brake jobs, fixing flats, installing exchange parts is all necessary work and sometime best done by a "mechanic" with a lift.
But building an engine is a whole other ballpark.
I sincerely wish you the best sir in your search for a solution to your problem. I'll be interested to see the final outcome.
Dennis
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LenWoodruff (12-10-2017)
#292
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sorry to keep inquiring but have they ever built an engine before for you?
Is there more than one mechanic involved?
Do you have anyone else you know that has had them build an engine?
Changing oil, doing brake jobs, fixing flats, installing exchange parts is all necessary work and sometime best done by a "mechanic" with a lift.
But building an engine is a whole other ballpark.
I sincerely wish you the best sir in your search for a solution to your problem. I'll be interested to see the final outcome.
Dennis
Is there more than one mechanic involved?
Do you have anyone else you know that has had them build an engine?
Changing oil, doing brake jobs, fixing flats, installing exchange parts is all necessary work and sometime best done by a "mechanic" with a lift.
But building an engine is a whole other ballpark.
I sincerely wish you the best sir in your search for a solution to your problem. I'll be interested to see the final outcome.
Dennis
#293
Race Director
And he tells you to go ahead and drive it home using ethylene glycol for motor oil. You need another engine rebuild my friend. Unfortunately, you could maybe get him to do it under warranty since he effed the whole thing up in the first place but you don't want him doing it.
Last edited by derekderek; 12-10-2017 at 11:22 AM.
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#294
Race Director
I think at this point, you pull it out yourself. Replace the main and rod bearings and check the Rings yourself. Get the heads done by somebody else and put them on yourself.
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#295
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#296
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
But if going that far, I'd have a competent machine shop check the block also while at it.
With the number of possibilities caused by faulty work, the anti-freeze in the oil may be from a cracked block now. Hopefully not. And I would at least expect the mechanic/shop to pay for the machine shop inspection and the removal.
IF you need to keep this block, I'd say do that.
But if not keeping the block for originality purposes, I'd look into a short block with a warranty and a lawyer to sue anyone involved with this cluster. And I don't recommend suing in general, but it may come to that.
Only you can decide but it seems like the writing is starting to show up on the wall.
Good luck....
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#297
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
I went through a similar ordeal with a paint and body guy. He was well recommended. He screwed the job up the first time and I sent it back. He screwed it up again. Done. Money wasted on a lousy job and it kills me he got paid for his poor work but at least I can still drive the car.
Fix it yourself or find another shop.
Tom
Fix it yourself or find another shop.
Tom
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LenWoodruff (12-10-2017)
#298
But if going that far, I'd have a competent machine shop check the block also while at it.
With the number of possibilities caused by faulty work, the anti-freeze in the oil may be from a cracked block now. Hopefully not. And I would at least expect the mechanic/shop to pay for the machine shop inspection and the removal.
IF you need to keep this block, I'd say do that.
But if not keeping the block for originality purposes, I'd look into a short block with a warranty and a lawyer to sue anyone involved with this cluster. And I don't recommend suing in general, but it may come to that.
Only you can decide but it seems like the writing is starting to show up on the wall.
Good luck....
The whole thing needs to get into the hands of a competent machine shop. Len, for your sake you better do your research of the shop you use, based off knowledgeable hardcore car peoples advice. Just because a "machine shop" did a machining operation .....does not mean it was done right. Get with the right people, get your wallet out and put this to bed, its almost like torture watching you go through this sea of incompetency.
Its also possible they never changed your oil after the head work, either way its bad work.
Hans Fuestel
Reher Morrison see Brad
Last edited by Vortecpro; 12-11-2017 at 09:12 AM.
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#299
Melting Slicks
The most telling thing about the "builder" was his direction to drive it with glycol in the oil. That says:
Jim
- He doesn't understand/care that, glycol will destroy the Babbitt bushings in short order
- Damage can then occur to the crank journals
- He doesn't want to pay for the towing to prevent the above
Jim
#300
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The most telling thing about the "builder" was his direction to drive it with glycol in the oil. That says:
Jim
- He doesn't understand/care that, glycol will destroy the Babbitt bushings in short order
- Damage can then occur to the crank journals
- He doesn't want to pay for the towing to prevent the above
Jim
I just paid for this and expect the builders to stand behind their work.
Good news is that they are going to pick the car up tomorrow and trailer it back to the shop.
They will diagnose the issue and resolve plus pull the pan and check the bearing for damage.
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