LenWoodruff

Probably will not show much. The the plugs are new only have 35 miles on them.

LenWoodruff

Unfortunately I don;t know the answer. When they did the engine originally they did use Fel Pro gaskets (I assume $20) and they did put sealer on the bolts.

This time I don't know but they should have done those steps.

TimAT

I'd let it set overnight and drop the oil. The water/antifreeze/coolant will come out first. And I'm not real sure about your builder telling you it's OK to drive the 15 miles or so home. Antifreeze kills bearings double quick.

bmans vette

Sorry Len.....but I agree.

He got the benefit of the doubt first time by blaming machine shop.
But this is too obvious.
If it was me doing the work, I would have checked and checked and triple checked knowing what you went thru.

Tough situation as you do not want him touching your engine again but then you don't want to sue him either.
Then you still have the problem to deal with.
Has this guy done work for you before? Does anyone else recommend his work?
You may have already answered this...I just don't want to re-read the whole thread.

Good luck sir.....

bmans vette

Now we have possibly scorched bearings.....

Time for new mechanic.

Sorry....

LenWoodruff

So the anti freeze is heavier than the oil?

LenWoodruff

They have done work for me for nearly 2 years. I just don't under stand how this keeps happening.

HeadsU.P.

There is always another county, another town, another shop, another mechanic. Sometimes being loyal, is a royal pain in the . . . . .

'75

Yes, antifreeze will settle to the bottom of the pan as long as it's not been emulsified in the oil. After it sits overnight, loosen the drain plug and let the coolant out, or better yet let it all out and get it towed to the shop. Nothing good will come from running it!

bmans vette

Sorry to keep inquiring but have they ever built an engine before for you?
Is there more than one mechanic involved?
Do you have anyone else you know that has had them build an engine?
Changing oil, doing brake jobs, fixing flats, installing exchange parts is all necessary work and sometime best done by a "mechanic" with a lift.
But building an engine is a whole other ballpark.

I sincerely wish you the best sir in your search for a solution to your problem. I'll be interested to see the final outcome.

Dennis

bmans vette

LenWoodruff

Me too. I will keep you updated.

derekderek

And he tells you to go ahead and drive it home using ethylene glycol for motor oil. You need another engine rebuild my friend. Unfortunately, you could maybe get him to do it under warranty since he effed the whole thing up in the first place but you don't want him doing it.

derekderek

I think at this point, you pull it out yourself. Replace the main and rod bearings and check the Rings yourself. Get the heads done by somebody else and put them on yourself.

Vortecpro

There you go..........

bmans vette

But if going that far, I'd have a competent machine shop check the block also while at it.
With the number of possibilities caused by faulty work, the anti-freeze in the oil may be from a cracked block now. Hopefully not. And I would at least expect the mechanic/shop to pay for the machine shop inspection and the removal.

IF you need to keep this block, I'd say do that.

But if not keeping the block for originality purposes, I'd look into a short block with a warranty and a lawyer to sue anyone involved with this cluster. And I don't recommend suing in general, but it may come to that.

Only you can decide but it seems like the writing is starting to show up on the wall.

Good luck....

Sky65

I went through a similar ordeal with a paint and body guy. He was well recommended. He screwed the job up the first time and I sent it back. He screwed it up again. Done. Money wasted on a lousy job and it kills me he got paid for his poor work but at least I can still drive the car.

Fix it yourself or find another shop.

Tom

Vortecpro

The whole thing needs to get into the hands of a competent machine shop. Len, for your sake you better do your research of the shop you use, based off knowledgeable hardcore car peoples advice. Just because a "machine shop" did a machining operation .....does not mean it was done right. Get with the right people, get your wallet out and put this to bed, its almost like torture watching you go through this sea of incompetency.


Its also possible they never changed your oil after the head work, either way its bad work.


Hans Fuestel
Reher Morrison see Brad

jimvette999

The most telling thing about the "builder" was his direction to drive it with glycol in the oil. That says:

• He doesn't understand/care that, glycol will destroy the Babbitt bushings in short order
• Damage can then occur to the crank journals
• He doesn't want to pay for the towing to prevent the above

How about buying a cheap crate engine and installing that while you rebuild the original engine at your own pace. You can acquire an engine stand, dial bore gauge, mics, dial indicator/stretch gauge for under $700 that are plenty accurate enough to build it properly. Then you'll know it's done right. You still need a good machine shop though to do those things you can't. Line bore, square the deck, Magnafluxing, heads, & cylinder prep. There are a few good books on the subject. I'll loan you them if you want. It's not difficult to blueprint your own engine. You just need patience, a clean environment, tools, and the knowledge. Then you can say "I built it".
Jim

LenWoodruff

Thanks for your input Jim. I did rebuild this engine once back in the mid 80's so I am comfortable doing it. It s easy to get the engine hoist and stand so that is not a problem.

I just paid for this and expect the builders to stand behind their work.

Good news is that they are going to pick the car up tomorrow and trailer it back to the shop.

They will diagnose the issue and resolve plus pull the pan and check the bearing for damage.