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trouble removing bolt from trailing arm

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Old 08-21-2017, 12:05 PM
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cabman72
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Default trouble removing bolt from trailing arm

I read somewhere on this forum about others having a problem removing the bolt that holds the trailing arm to the frame. But after a quick search I couldn't find it. Anyways, I'm doing a frame-off resto on my 72 and the right trailing arm bolt is frozen in place. I tried soaking it in PB Blaster and also heated it with a torch but it won't budge. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!!
Old 08-21-2017, 12:12 PM
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Wee
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Use a sawzall and cut it with this blade.





Brian
Old 08-21-2017, 01:16 PM
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A88FXRS
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Originally Posted by Wee
Use a sawzall and cut it with this blade.





Brian
OX / ACY torch. will be out in 2 minutes !!!
Old 08-21-2017, 01:24 PM
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drwet
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I used the sawzall on mine. Its slow. Plan on spending an evening doing it. But it works, and its probably safer than using torches.
Old 08-21-2017, 04:22 PM
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resdoggie
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Sawzall with a good metal cutting blade and cut right down through the shims. Piece of cake, lol.
Old 08-21-2017, 04:54 PM
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C3 Stroker
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Sawzall worked for me.
Old 08-21-2017, 09:17 PM
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lars
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Sawzall with a good blade will cut the bolts in about 30 seconds per bolt - trailing arms come right out with no problem, and with no damage to the arms or to the frame.

Lars
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:57 PM
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kansas123
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Yep, sawzall, don't scrimp on the blades and don't think you'll be done in 15 minutes. It's a *&*^ of a job.
Old 08-23-2017, 09:14 PM
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Pop Chevy
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I myself would choose a finer tooth bi-metal blade, run it slower and try to keep oil on it. Yes , there are places I don't like to use a torch.
Old 08-24-2017, 12:32 AM
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Clams Canino
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Sawzall here too.
-W
Old 08-24-2017, 01:01 AM
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rebel542
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I removed the shims and tagged them for location and sawed right through the bolts. Don't saw through that thick stake of shims. Get them out of your way. I used a Sawzall too. 30 minute job at most.
Old 08-24-2017, 08:10 AM
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cabman72
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Just as an update, I did get the nut off without a problem. It's just the bolt won't move. Even if I put a breaker bar on the head I can't budge it. My question is, if I cut the bolt in half will I still have problems removing the head half?
Old 08-24-2017, 09:59 AM
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resdoggie
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I couldn't remove any of my shims as they were seized in there darn good after 40 years. Sawzall cut right through them. Once the bolt was cut through, the shims were able to move enough to pry them out. Once the shims were removed, the trailing arm pretty much fell out and the remaining head half was easily removed.

Last edited by resdoggie; 08-24-2017 at 10:01 AM.
Old 08-24-2017, 12:14 PM
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Wee
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If I remember correctly I had to cut the bolts on both sides of the arm....I then too had to knock the remaining bolt out of the frame.

Brian
Old 08-26-2017, 09:57 AM
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Bigguyinmo
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I must be living right. On my '75 I just did a complete rear suspension rebuilt, car has over 100K miles. At all came apart with hand tools. My trailing arm bolts looked new when I pulled them out.
Old 08-26-2017, 12:00 PM
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cabman72
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Well, I just went out and bought a new sawzall. My old one was a Craftsman model from the 60's!! It was my dad's. Couldn't find a metal cutting blade so I just got a new one. I'll let everyone know how it works out.
Old 08-27-2017, 08:25 PM
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cabman72
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The bolt is out!! Had to torch it out because a sawzall wasn't working. Everything else was already removed from the frame so nothing was damaged. Now off to the sandblaster......
Old 08-28-2017, 08:38 AM
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resdoggie
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See? It's not that hard to get out!

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