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Frame and Body Expert Advise Please

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Old 09-12-2017, 11:51 AM
  #21  
DIY-79
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:52 AM
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Pics I promised. The difference is obvious.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:42 PM
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Hi d79,
I believe at this point I'd measure the distances from the outer frame rail surface to the inner surface of the rocker channels.
Measure front and rear, both sides, to come up with a comparison.
This is the area on the right side just to the rear of the number 2 body mount I'd measure.
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:25 PM
  #24  
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I'm going to measure there as well as spindle and rotor deminsions. If they replaced one side who knows if the deminsions were the same. The spindle could be 1/2" further out or the rotors could be different and the hub mounting point could be off. I measured from the frame just forward the tire to the fender lip. Measurements were identicle.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:22 PM
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Passenger side rear. Center of tire to fender lip.
Drivers side. Center of tire to fender lip. This means rear tires are not centered in the wheel well.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:26 PM
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Drivers side at the oval cut out in the frame. 5/8"
Passenger side at the oval. 5/8"
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:35 PM
  #27  
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Drivers side from inside the #2 mount touching the frame. I made sure the tape measure was not on the flange of the mount. 3"
Same position passenger side. 3"
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:46 PM
  #28  
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Just measured this measurement and it's right on the money. This was with the wheels on the ground.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:24 PM
  #29  
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In post #25 you wrote:
"This means rear tires are not centered in the wheel well."

Did you confirm this by a visual look??

From your measurements...I still stand on what I wrote before. A lower control arm mount location issue...and or now a possible cradle issue. And this being off as little as it is... you will not find a buckle and or possible tear in the steel....because the lower A-arm shaft took a lot of the impact and then transferred it out further.

Now knowing what you have going on with these photos...where the cradle seems to have been pushed to the left...this is candidate to go on a frame machine and have the tram gauges used to measure it out and get it corrected....and this is under the assumption that whoever fixed it...(not knowing what type of possible body work they did)...did that correctly.

And for what it is worth.,..I have repaired cars just like what you have going on here....and I bet that if you did visually inspect the alignment holes in your rocker channels.... they are more than likely spot on or super close.

Yes...you might have spindle damage...but it should show up and be rather obvious...due to no photos of that have been posted..

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Old 09-12-2017, 08:30 PM
  #30  
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DUB, I'm with you. I spent the day setting the ride heght, setting camber and toe and I'm having to pull all the shins on the drivers side to get 0° camber and I have three shims on the passenger side to set it at 0°. I'm with you 100%. I think the drivers side took the hit and the strut tower is pushed in. There's a frame shop 5 min down the highway from me. I'm going to set everything as close as I can get it and make an appointment to have it checked. I'll post when I have the results.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:03 PM
  #31  
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Waiting for you to let us know what they told you.

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Old 01-13-2018, 06:49 PM
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Default What a turn of eventsif I can get it lined

Update. Still haven’t made it to a frame shop. The driver side rear wheel bearing was making noise. Short of the long, rear end was dismantled, third member dropped, dragvette suspension installed, all body mounts replaced, new trailing arms, and both bearing sets replaced. Still have a little left to do, but the body mounts were all different. Some replaced some not. So I left them loose for final alignment and shimming for door gaps. Checked the alignment holes and low and behold the fronts are off about a 1/4” to the drivers side. So if I can get it lined up the problem may fix itself. The car had 37 yo bushings with mixed matches body mounts.
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