OldCarBum

I'm looking at aluminum heads for my 73 454. I'll be stroking it to 496 cu. in. and adding all the other goodies. So far I've researched Edelbrock, AFR, and Brodix heads and they all look like they offer options that will work with my build.
I was on the GM Performance web page and looked at their aluminum heads. I was wondering if anyone is running the GM Performance aluminum heads and would like to hear any positive or negative feedback regarding their manufacturing and performance.
Does anyone know where they are cast, machined or assembled?
Thanks, Greg

L88Plus

Edelbrock casts most of Chevy's parts and they're almost identical to Edelbrock's own. I have a set of the 401's, haven't finished building the engine so I don't have any feedback at all for you, sorry.

tt 383

same boat as you not even started on engine but I bought the as cast AFR 325 w/cnc chamber. It is said to pour about 317cc that's from Tony's keyboard. They flow almost as good as the 315cnc head, but obviously cheaper and IMO a good size for a 496-509 engine

427Hotrod

I'm a Brodix guy. They make tough stuff that works. They've come up with great CNC programs now that make them killer.

You'll not go wrong with AFR's...gotta verify valve train pieces fit right..they still have trouble with geometry..but you can make it right by selecting the correct rockers.

The GM heads are Edelbrocks. Not terrible...but it all depends on the power you're shooting for.

Stay away from the cheap imports.

If there is any way in the budget I'd go for full CNC porting. If not...at least the CNC chambers.


Tell us more about your plans and we can help more.

JIM

TimAT

At the recommendation of the guy that did the machine work for my 496, I got a pair of Brodix Race Rite heads- 294cc intake, 115cc chambers. Had to run them thru his mill to make room for the shaft rockers but that was it. No hassles with raised exhaust ports or anything. My favorite part is they put heli-coils in all the bolt holes.

OldCarBum

My plan is to use my OEM block and convert it to 4 bolt mains, bore and stroke it to 496 cu in, run a set of oval port aluminum heads with 100 to 110 cc chambers, a forged stroker kit, keeping the compression ratio to about 10.5.1 and a hydraulic roller cam.
I'm looking at the Edelbrock performer air gap intake, headers, HEI or MSD ignition and a Holley 950 street double pumper.
This is just a rough plan and open for change.
I'm running a TH400 and that will change to an O.D. auto and I'll be sticking with my 3.36 gears.
The car won't be raced on the drag strip or on a road course.
Just looking to build a good strong motor.
I'm all about buying good quality parts, nothing from China or assembled in Mexico, but I'm not a millionaire either.
I've already purchased all the suspension parts through Van Steel to upgrade the suspension to coil overs all around, all new steering with Borgenson box, Willwood brakes, and 17" wheels.
This is a body off resto/mod that I'll start once I have all the components sitting on the shelf.

GOSFAST

If your 2 bolt main caps are good as-is, have your machinist modify them, making ALL 5 (front to rear) into a 4 bolts, been doing this procedure for years now and haven't found it necessary to "fix" the mains from this mod.

We've done over 650 Hp with this setup.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot of a few caps we've done in the past, have 3 blocks lined up waiting today. All will get ARP fasteners in the end. We set up all 10 outer (short) bolts for 7/16 threads. You can opt for studs or bolts, either will work fine. Have not had a single cap failure whatsoever in over 30 years with this deal!