1969 Gauges testing
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
1969 Gauges testing
I looked at several videos on-line for testing gauges but they don't exactly work for my application.....I have a 69 350/350 convertible. It has been disassembled for several years and I'm trying to get it together. Dash is out of car and disconnected. I need to know which gauges I need to purchase/repair.....all the faces look excellent ......green on black.
Fuel gauge: needle tight and if I move it it with my finger it will stay where I put it. I thought they should "float" and bounce back toward empty when disconnected.
Water temp: needle tight and will slowly "float" back to center position around 210 when moved
Clock: I hooked it up 12 v power to tab and grounded case....nothing
Oil pressure: spring loaded toward 0 (probably OK)
Battery: nice "wiggle" toward center (probably OK)
Thanks for any links or help!
Fuel gauge: needle tight and if I move it it with my finger it will stay where I put it. I thought they should "float" and bounce back toward empty when disconnected.
Water temp: needle tight and will slowly "float" back to center position around 210 when moved
Clock: I hooked it up 12 v power to tab and grounded case....nothing
Oil pressure: spring loaded toward 0 (probably OK)
Battery: nice "wiggle" toward center (probably OK)
Thanks for any links or help!
#2
this link is for testing a fuel gauge http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...el-gauge-test/
this link is for the water temp http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...gauge-testing/
clock you already know it's not working
this link is for the oil pressure http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/o...ing-1974-1982/
this is for the ammeter https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...procedure.html
this link is for the water temp http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...gauge-testing/
clock you already know it's not working
this link is for the oil pressure http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/o...ing-1974-1982/
this is for the ammeter https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...procedure.html
The following users liked this post:
rangepony69 (09-11-2017)
#3
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I looked at several videos on-line for testing gauges but they don't exactly work for my application.....I have a 69 350/350 convertible. It has been disassembled for several years and I'm trying to get it together. Dash is out of car and disconnected. I need to know which gauges I need to purchase/repair.....all the faces look excellent ......green on black.
Fuel gauge: needle tight and if I move it it with my finger it will stay where I put it. I thought they should "float" and bounce back toward empty when disconnected.
Water temp: needle tight and will slowly "float" back to center position around 210 when moved
Clock: I hooked it up 12 v power to tab and grounded case....nothing
Oil pressure: spring loaded toward 0 (probably OK)
Battery: nice "wiggle" toward center (probably OK)
Thanks for any links or help!
Fuel gauge: needle tight and if I move it it with my finger it will stay where I put it. I thought they should "float" and bounce back toward empty when disconnected.
Water temp: needle tight and will slowly "float" back to center position around 210 when moved
Clock: I hooked it up 12 v power to tab and grounded case....nothing
Oil pressure: spring loaded toward 0 (probably OK)
Battery: nice "wiggle" toward center (probably OK)
Thanks for any links or help!
A gauge without any ohms input will go to the best of the world... A fuel gauge will go past full, a temp gauge will go to cool... Then when you ground out the ohms stud they'll go opposite.. Empty and Hot...
Willcox
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
If I power everything up on the bench is everything 12volts? I like to use a battery charger when I'm testing things but do I need to reduce voltage?
#5
Be carefull using a battery charger....although they put out 12v DC, they also put out a high amount of AC....and some even pulse the DC current in various voltages, which can do harm....needles spiking hard, bouncing around at anywhere from 10hz to 100 hz....not really ideal for checking. There are some chargers, like trickle chargers, that just put out a clean 13.8v DC. You want a clean dc current to test with.
#6
Team Owner
A battery charger puts out 'chopped' DC voltage. It is meant to be used with a battery...and the battery stabilizes the voltage. The charger alone may do more damage than good; and it could send out several amps to some low-current meters (if not wired properly or defective gauge). Not a good idea.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 09-12-2017 at 01:39 AM.
#7
Instructor
Clock. Here is a piece on clock repair. You will likely find that the contacts do not align. They NEVER did. Use a diamond file to clean them. Not Emory or sand paper.
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Clock. Here is a piece on clock repair. You will likely find that the contacts do not align. They NEVER did. Use a diamond file to clean them. Not Emory or sand paper.
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm
Thanks.....I've done alot of clocks on other cars, I just have to figure out how to crack into the case.....
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
A battery charger puts out 'chopped' DC voltage. It is meant to be used with a battery...and the battery stabilizes the voltage. The charger alone may do more damage than good; and it could send out several amps to some low-current meters (if not wired properly or defective gauge). Not a good idea.
Sounds like everything is 12v.....I guess I could use a battery.....any leads on where and what size pot to buy?
#10
Not sure what you mean by pot...i trim pot? Like a variable resistor? I would use an analog house lights dimmer....not sure if it would work but at least it could handle power from a car battery. In order to select the correct trim pot you would need to know the wattage of the devices you would be testing...a local electronics hobby shop should habe them up to 1 watt fairly cheap...which should suffice...but im not sure. Each sending unit that sends its signals to the gauges is usually from 1k to 10k i believe so a 1 watt, 10k pot may work just for a quick test.
#11
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Not sure what you mean by pot...i trim pot? Like a variable resistor? I would use an analog house lights dimmer....not sure if it would work but at least it could handle power from a car battery. In order to select the correct trim pot you would need to know the wattage of the devices you would be testing...a local electronics hobby shop should habe them up to 1 watt fairly cheap...which should suffice...but im not sure. Each sending unit that sends its signals to the gauges is usually from 1k to 10k i believe so a 1 watt, 10k pot may work just for a quick test.
Use a 12 volt power supply, not a battery charger... or use a wire off the back of the alternator. Your just testing gauges so nothing bad will happen.
The fuel gauge is 0 ohms is empty, 90 ohms is full.
The temperature gauge expected inputs is shown in the picture below.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 09-12-2017 at 02:59 PM.
#12
Instructor
Clock: cracking into the case? Pliers turning three bent prongs. I think it was designed to be opened about twice, despite the one year service schedule.
#13
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Clock. Here is a piece on clock repair. You will likely find that the contacts do not align. They NEVER did. Use a diamond file to clean them. Not Emory or sand paper.
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm
The faces are where you can run into issues when you build/repair the clocks. If the tangs break off you can epoxy them back on the clock when completed but I would test the movement (and the accuracy) before doing that.
Willcox
#14
Thanks,
Rich
#15
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Willcox
#16
Huh....who knew....except for you obviously. This will be my winter project. Getting the clock to maintain proper time.
#17
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Ernie
#18
Team Owner
That clock is self-correcting...IF you follow the right procedure for doing so.
Once you have the clock powered up, you set the correct time on it. You also note the actual time when you made that adjustment. Wait 24 hours [+/- a few minutes] and correct the clock's time by adjusting it in the "nearest" direction. (If it is 15 minutes 'slow', turn it CW; if it is 15 minutes 'fast', turn it CCW.)
Make this adjustment on consecutive days...only once per day at about the same time of day...and the clock will be on-time and accurate after no more than 3 days.
Note: The 'rate' of the self-correction depends on the adjustments being made once-daily at 24 hour increments.
Once you have the clock powered up, you set the correct time on it. You also note the actual time when you made that adjustment. Wait 24 hours [+/- a few minutes] and correct the clock's time by adjusting it in the "nearest" direction. (If it is 15 minutes 'slow', turn it CW; if it is 15 minutes 'fast', turn it CCW.)
Make this adjustment on consecutive days...only once per day at about the same time of day...and the clock will be on-time and accurate after no more than 3 days.
Note: The 'rate' of the self-correction depends on the adjustments being made once-daily at 24 hour increments.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 09-14-2017 at 10:26 PM.