cnysupply

Looking for a carb insulator for 1964 WCFB.
I have a heat issue when the motor gets up to operating temp. Starts hard like the fuel boiled over any know where to buy onw

v2racing

I just did a quick search on ebay. You can find them there.

Mike

cnysupply

The ones I found say they won't fit my carb

v2racing

What year carb and manifold do you have? 1964 Vettes had either Carter AFB or Holley Carbs.

Mike

7T1vette

Said he had a WCFB in his first post...

Old carb; usually only found on original setups. You must have a 50's manifold and carb on your '64. You might have to make one. Or, you could put two thick gaskets on the manifold, then make an aluminum heat shield, and another couple of gaskets between shield and carb.

One of the easiest things to try is to insulate the fuel line going to the carb and use non-ethanol fuel in your car. Ethanol has lower boiling point that gasoline, and this is becoming more of a problem since "corn juice" was added.

v2racing

Don't mean to nitpick, but the boiling point for ethanol is 71 degrees higher than gasoline. Ethanol isn't causing vapor lock. Heat is and has always been the problem.

Mike

Jebbysan

Do you know why it won't fit?
This certainly looks like WCFB to me.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-WCFB-...item36199c583e

Jebby

cnysupply

Application chart on this product says not a fit for this WCFB. I checked Ebay and sent the vendor a note asking if this would be OK to use it does look like my gaskets

Easy Mike

Have you posted in C2?

gkull

The best insulation is wood carb spacers I use the 4 hole model. It helps get more signal to the boosters

Don't get me started on how worthless aluminum so called heat shields are.

cnysupply

Where do you get a wood spacer do you have to make your own?

MelWff

have you posted your question in the C2 section that deals with 1964 Corvettes?

cnysupply

I have not this post got posted inthe wrong forum should have been in C2

ronarndt

Hope you get this annoying problem fixed. Every time I shut off my 68 convert with NOM 454 (with a heat insulator spacer) I just expect the fuel bowls to be bone dry if the car sits for more than 5 minutes.


I made it easier to re-start by adding an electric fuel pump and just turn the key on for 10-15 seconds to pump gas before I engage the starter. Previously I had to crank the motor for 15-20 seconds to allow the mechanical fuel pump to fill up the fuel bowls. A little annoying if people are admiring your car and then it won't start.

cnysupply

I know the feeling I am hoping an insulator will solve the problem if I can find one that will work well on this engine. It runs great for an old car just the hot start issue. I am trying to keep it as original as possible.

7T1vette

V2racing...

I don't know where you got your data, but gasoline boils at 181*F. I think that is higher than 173*F.

And when engine operating temps are in that same range, 10*F can make a lot of difference. All the more reason to insulate the fuel line and/or add a return line back to the fuel tank.