No oil through the oil filter
#41
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Oil Pump Drive Shaft
When I say "oil pump drive shaft" I don't think he knows what I'm referring to. As I don't remember how to copy and paste links can someone help me out? Show him a ARP #135-7901 or Melling #IS-55E oil pump drive shaft?
#42
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
This is getting almost funny, my sarcasm is about to take over. THE MOTOR HAD OIL. It was dripping off the camshaft as I looked at it yesterday, the wind didn't blow it there. Those bearings don't look perfect but they're completely smooth and NOT burnt.
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73racevette (09-19-2017)
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BB72 (09-19-2017)
#44
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Oil Pump Drive Shaft Picture Please?
Then why was your oil filter bone dry and the inside of the block's oil filter boss also bone dry? Some kind of miracle perhaps? I'm still waiting for a picture of your OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT with the steel sleeve on it. The 1/2" X 6" shaft that connects the bottom of your HEI to the top of your oil pump. The rear of your #5 main bearing shows signs of being hot but the #4 main bearing definitely shows signs of burning from lack of oil pressure. You need to pull all of the connecting rod caps and see how much damage the rod bearings suffered.
I assume you put oil into the oil pan then hauled the engine to the dyno shop in the bed of a pickup? The trip to and from the dyno shop would be more than enough to slosh oil all over the insides of your crank case so just because you see oil dripping from the camshaft or crankshaft doesn't mean it had oil pressure during the 10 dyno pulls.
#45
Le Mans Master
Then why was your oil filter bone dry and the inside of the block's oil filter boss also bone dry? Some kind of miracle perhaps? I'm still waiting for a picture of your OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT with the steel sleeve on it. The 1/2" X 6" shaft that connects the bottom of your HEI to the top of your oil pump. The rear of your #5 main bearing shows signs of being hot but the #4 main bearing definitely shows signs of burning from lack of oil pressure. You need to pull all of the connecting rod caps and see how much damage the rod bearings suffered.
I assume you put oil into the oil pan then hauled the engine to the dyno shop in the bed of a pickup? The trip to and from the dyno shop would be more than enough to slosh oil all over the insides of your crank case so just because you see oil dripping from the camshaft or crankshaft doesn't mean it had oil pressure during the 10 dyno pulls.
I assume you put oil into the oil pan then hauled the engine to the dyno shop in the bed of a pickup? The trip to and from the dyno shop would be more than enough to slosh oil all over the insides of your crank case so just because you see oil dripping from the camshaft or crankshaft doesn't mean it had oil pressure during the 10 dyno pulls.
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73racevette (09-19-2017)
#46
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Is this a reading problem or ????
The pic of the bearing appears dark but is in fact clean and shiny. The dark spot on the bottom is excess oil sitting because of the way the cap is positioned. I know for sure I have a steel sleeve on the shaft. I worked 12hr nights all weekend and just got up, I'll have more updates later today.
#47
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Home Made Oil System Priming Tool
Here's a picture of my oil system priming tool that I made out of an old cast iron Chevrolet V8 distributor 50 years ago. After I cut the top part off I cut and threaded the shaft 1/2" NF then screwed a 1/2" high nut onto it then pinned it with a roll pin. Then I ground the gear teeth completely off.
Once I button the engine up I drop the priming tool into place and use my 1/2" Milwaukee electric drill to spin it AND the oil pump. It only takes about 3 seconds to fill the one-quart filter and then UGH as it suddenly pressurizes the system.
I'll spin it for one minute with the #1 piston at TDC then rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees and spin it for another minute. After spinning it for one minute in each of the four 90 degree positions I know all of my hydraulic lifters got filled and it'll start clatter-free.
If you do very much engine building you need to make or buy a tool like this so you can pre-lube your system ahead of time.
Once I button the engine up I drop the priming tool into place and use my 1/2" Milwaukee electric drill to spin it AND the oil pump. It only takes about 3 seconds to fill the one-quart filter and then UGH as it suddenly pressurizes the system.
I'll spin it for one minute with the #1 piston at TDC then rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees and spin it for another minute. After spinning it for one minute in each of the four 90 degree positions I know all of my hydraulic lifters got filled and it'll start clatter-free.
If you do very much engine building you need to make or buy a tool like this so you can pre-lube your system ahead of time.
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gungatim (09-25-2017)
#52
#54
Melting Slicks
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#55
#56
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Failure To Install The Oil Pump Drive Shaft?
We're still waiting for that picture of your oil pump drive shaft and pictures of the rest of your burned main and rod bearings. As the #1 and #2 rod bearings are the furthest distance from the oil pump that wasn't pumping any oil I suggest you look at those bearings first.
#58
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
We're still waiting for that picture of your oil pump drive shaft and pictures of the rest of your burned main and rod bearings. As the #1 and #2 rod bearings are the furthest distance from the oil pump that wasn't pumping any oil I suggest you look at those bearings first.
#60
Melting Slicks
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