No oil through the oil filter
09-21-2017, 07:31 AM
#81
Race Director
09-21-2017, 12:08 PM
#82
Le Mans Master
09-21-2017, 07:51 PM
#83
Melting Slicks
09-23-2017, 11:41 AM
#85
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
09-23-2017, 11:46 AM
#86
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
If engine is a new rebuilt, was the oil galley plug knocked out to clean the block and not replaced?
Look at pic here in the link.
This has been known to happen.
https://www.google.com/search?q=oil+...P02jSZi4um3-M:
Look at pic here in the link.
This has been known to happen.
https://www.google.com/search?q=oil+...P02jSZi4um3-M:
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bmans vette (09-23-2017)
09-23-2017, 03:56 PM
#89
Melting Slicks
09-24-2017, 12:09 AM
#91
Le Mans Master
It's clear to most of us that read the thread. BB72 had his engine at a dyno shop that performed some dyno runs. After the runs, they removed the oil filter and inspected it for debris, common practice, installed a new filter and did not run the engine anymore, new filter remained empty. BB72, not knowing the filter had been replaced after the dyno session, removed it and noticed it had no oil in it and started this thread.
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73racevette (10-04-2017)
09-24-2017, 03:28 AM
#92
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Reverse Rotation Marine Cam?
Ha, I just figured it out. The builder of the short block installed a reverse rotation marine cam so the engine was spinning backwards during the 10 dyno pulls.
10-04-2017, 02:25 PM
#94
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
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73racevette (10-04-2017)
10-04-2017, 03:25 PM
#96
Pro
10-04-2017, 07:06 PM
#97
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Always Pre-Lube Freshly Rebuilt Engines Before Starting Them
The only advice I can give to you is to install an oil pump drive shaft this time. And be sure to get one with the steel sleeve because the nylon sleeve will eventually harden and break which allows the shaft to spin off-center which will groove the sides of the shaft and wallow out the hole in the block. I know because my 454" was like that when I bought it 8 years ago. The standard duty drive shafts that cost around $10 to $12 are plenty good for a street engine. Before you install the #5 main cap use a Dremel to chamfer the oil hole (when I typed the word "chamfer" my spell check didn't recognize it as being a valid word for some reason).
And why did I suspect a missing oil pump drive shaft in the first place? The picture of the insides of the oil filter boss shows it's bone dry because oil never touched it. This is another reason why it's a REAL good idea to pre-lube any freshly rebuilt engine with a pre-lube tool and an electric drill and use a pressure gauge to verify it has normal pressure. In the past I have found 2 sets of standard rod bearings and 1 set of standard main bearings that had been roll-stamped .010" under which is why bearings should always be mike'd when taken out of their boxes to verify their sizes. I also found a set of .030" over Hastings piston rings that had standard oil expanders and it used a quart of oil every 250 miles.
10-04-2017, 07:22 PM
#98
The only advice I can give to you is to install an oil pump drive shaft this time. And be sure to get one with the steel sleeve because the nylon sleeve will eventually harden and break which allows the shaft to spin off-center which will groove the sides of the shaft and wallow out the hole in the block. I know because my 454" was like that when I bought it 8 years ago. The standard duty drive shafts that cost around $10 to $12 are plenty good for a street engine. Before you install the #5 main cap use a Dremel to chamfer the oil hole (when I typed the word "chamfer" my spell check didn't recognize it as being a valid word for some reason).
And why did I suspect a missing oil pump drive shaft in the first place? The picture of the insides of the oil filter boss shows it's bone dry because oil never touched it. This is another reason why it's a REAL good idea to pre-lube any freshly rebuilt engine with a pre-lube tool and an electric drill and use a pressure gauge to verify it has normal pressure. In the past I have found 2 sets of standard rod bearings and 1 set of standard main bearings that had been roll-stamped .010" under which is why bearings should always be mike'd when taken out of their boxes to verify their sizes. I also found a set of .030" over Hastings piston rings that had standard oil expanders and it used a quart of oil every 250 miles.
And why did I suspect a missing oil pump drive shaft in the first place? The picture of the insides of the oil filter boss shows it's bone dry because oil never touched it. This is another reason why it's a REAL good idea to pre-lube any freshly rebuilt engine with a pre-lube tool and an electric drill and use a pressure gauge to verify it has normal pressure. In the past I have found 2 sets of standard rod bearings and 1 set of standard main bearings that had been roll-stamped .010" under which is why bearings should always be mike'd when taken out of their boxes to verify their sizes. I also found a set of .030" over Hastings piston rings that had standard oil expanders and it used a quart of oil every 250 miles.
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73racevette (10-04-2017)
10-04-2017, 08:46 PM
#100
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The only advice I can give to you is to install an oil pump drive shaft this time. And be sure to get one with the steel sleeve because the nylon sleeve will eventually harden and break which allows the shaft to spin off-center which will groove the sides of the shaft and wallow out the hole in the block. I know because my 454" was like that when I bought it 8 years ago. The standard duty drive shafts that cost around $10 to $12 are plenty good for a street engine. Before you install the #5 main cap use a Dremel to chamfer the oil hole (when I typed the word "chamfer" my spell check didn't recognize it as being a valid word for some reason).
And why did I suspect a missing oil pump drive shaft in the first place? The picture of the insides of the oil filter boss shows it's bone dry because oil never touched it. This is another reason why it's a REAL good idea to pre-lube any freshly rebuilt engine with a pre-lube tool and an electric drill and use a pressure gauge to verify it has normal pressure. In the past I have found 2 sets of standard rod bearings and 1 set of standard main bearings that had been roll-stamped .010" under which is why bearings should always be mike'd when taken out of their boxes to verify their sizes. I also found a set of .030" over Hastings piston rings that had standard oil expanders and it used a quart of oil every 250 miles.
And why did I suspect a missing oil pump drive shaft in the first place? The picture of the insides of the oil filter boss shows it's bone dry because oil never touched it. This is another reason why it's a REAL good idea to pre-lube any freshly rebuilt engine with a pre-lube tool and an electric drill and use a pressure gauge to verify it has normal pressure. In the past I have found 2 sets of standard rod bearings and 1 set of standard main bearings that had been roll-stamped .010" under which is why bearings should always be mike'd when taken out of their boxes to verify their sizes. I also found a set of .030" over Hastings piston rings that had standard oil expanders and it used a quart of oil every 250 miles.
I can't believe you dude, are you that thick? There was oil pressure and for that to happen it meant there was an oil pump shaft. Is anybody really that stupid to not read and follow a thread? Unless you have something constructive to add maybe you should not post.
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