DUB

I hope that that part fixes your problem.

DUB

Street Rat

I finally got it back together the other day. I took my time and double checked things as I went along.

The ***** for the bearings fell out upon disassembly. So something wasn't right.

The column seems somewhat tighter now with the new spacer and bearings.

When the telescoping feature is pulled all the way forward (towards driver) I have a little more play.

If the rain holds off today, I will get to go test drive her.

tracdogg2

One common problem I have found is the pin that the tilt locks grab on to becomes loose in the aluminum flange. The holes in the flange get egged out. I rebore the holes and make a new oversize pin.
Mike

Street Rat

Thanks Mike.

I don't plan on going back into this column anytime soon.

tracdogg2

And I said I will never get remarried!
There's always that short drive to Dallas.
I'm still trying to get down your way so we can go to the Cele store.
Mike

ramair_bryan

Good news...........

Well, not for me but here's what I did to get rid of that last 1/2'' of play in the steering wheel.

You've noticed the telescopic portion slides on a 1/4'' shaft, using a 1/4''
half moon key.

The key was worn where it slides. replaced. Still a little loose.
I staked it in with a punch nice and tight.

Got r done........

Street Rat

Very interesting information. That makes perfect sense.

Thanks.

DUB

and a common problem for sure....and I mentioned that in post#13 (third paragraph.)

The pivot knuckle is available new for those who may not know this....and they come with two new pivot pins also.

As for the bearing housing..I have not yet found new ones for that...and that is when used or doing some machining like you do may be in order.

DUB

Street Rat

Everything was tight with the pins.

What was loose was the inside telescopic shaft. As mentioned earlier. The inside seemed to have a little play in it when sliding it up and down. Maybe it was or still is a key way issue?

Either way that didn't get fixed when I was in the column.

DUB

I am sorry for misdirecting you in your repair. I have seen so many columns where the 'play' is right there where teh lock plate is installed and I can watch the shaft move.

If you are 100% positive ( which I am sure you are)...and you can see the inner shaft moving slightly in regards to the hole that it slides into....and when you have the telescoping shaft out and you have 'play'....but yet you have the telescoping shaft tight by using an Allen head set screw to tighten it...or the 'star' bolt....then all I can say is that either your inner diameter is off a .0001" or so...or the outside shaft surface of the is slightly worn.

I know one of my friends when they run into something like this they get the part plated to add that little bit back to the outside diameter. I clearly remember some transmission tail shaft yokes being chrome plated to put material back on it after it was lightly machined down due to damage and then when it was plated...it brought back to specs.

I do not know if messing with the key will do anything...because in my mind ( and I can be wrong)...when you have the shaft tight so it will not move...due to the rotating function of the key....it is doing its job of not allowing the shaft to move....and it does not control if there is significant wear on the shaft or inside the bore of the column where the shaft slides.

And how I am imagining this is IF you were to grind down the shaft diameter at at lower end significantly...then the air space between it and the inner bore surface area would be greater...thus more movement of the shaft due to not being close to the bore.

DUB

Street Rat

Finally got her out for a drive yesterday.

Still have a little play from the shaft I'm assuming.
It seems real tight turning the wheel from left to right.
I sure hope everything is ok in there.

Is there any reason why it would be so tight to turn?

corvgreg

You may still have issues with the lock housing bearings which may also give you that play. When you are putting the lock housing on over the upper shaft yoke it is possible to dislodge one or more of the small ball bearings. Also when putting the plastic cage into the bearing race make sure the larger diameter part of the cage goes in first.

DUB

I assume you have the engine running when trying to turn the wheel.

Air pressure for the front tires is correct.

Without photos of how you installed the column from the top bearing outwards....where the race and the wedged part went onto the main shaft....and then the upper horn contact and lock ring..it is hard to say.

I am not there to understand what you mean by 'tight'. I know what you mean but how tight or binding it is ...cannot be determined.

I know that it is a pain....but disconnecting the flange at the steering coupling and pulling the column off of the coupling so you are only turning the steering shaft.

'corvgreg'
He mentioned in post #29 and previously that the 'play' he is having is the telescoping shaft and not the main shaft where the bearings ride. We tried to make sure that when he was done that the bearings and tension for them were correct so he was not having any play at that point....including the pivot pin area also.

DUB

Big2Bird

I bet that sticks this time.

Street Rat

I just took column apart for the third time again yesterday.

I didn't have the dimmer switch rod installed correctly with the high beam follower. I had no low beams. Just high beams and couldn't switch between the two. The rod end at the switch had fallen out of the switch.

Went back in and fixed everything except the looseness caused by the telescoping shaft.

IT'S FIXED!


Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread!