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Question On Oii Pan Bolts - Torque Sequence - 454BB

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Old 09-21-2017, 01:55 PM
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74VetteAZ
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Default Question On Oii Pan Bolts - Torque Sequence - 454BB

Hi All -

I'm replacing my 74 BB oil pan and have the correct bolt torque info - but is there a sequence that these bolts need to be torqued (first-last)?

Thank You!
Old 09-21-2017, 02:48 PM
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JoeMinnesota
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Originally Posted by 74VetteAZ
Hi All -

I'm replacing my 74 BB oil pan and have the correct bolt torque info - but is there a sequence that these bolts need to be torqued (first-last)?

Thank You!
No sequence for the oil pan. I usually work my way from the middle out, and watch the edges for any gasket issues while I tighten. Not a bad idea to crawl back under after driving it for a while and re-snug, but not critical.
Old 09-21-2017, 02:58 PM
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71VetteLover
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Originally Posted by JoeMinnesota
No sequence for the oil pan. I usually work my way from the middle out, and watch the edges for any gasket issues while I tighten. Not a bad idea to crawl back under after driving it for a while and re-snug, but not critical.

And get them ALL started before tightening any of them.
Old 09-21-2017, 03:48 PM
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HeadsU.P.
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Joe is right. With almost all oil pans, work from middle out and zig-zig side to side. Using the smallest ratchet you own, 3/8 drive, long extension and one hand only will keep you from over torqueing. I just snug them, come back the next morning for the final torque. That way you won't squeeze out all your Permatex.
Old 09-21-2017, 06:41 PM
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DUB
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I agree with all of the above...BUT...the correct choice of sealer will aid a person in getting it done much faster....if that is a concern...like it is for me.

Some RTV sealers are rather creamy and can cause for problems on the gaskets squeezing out or the sealer itself getting all squeezed out when torquing the bolts.

I use the Prematex 'right stuff' which is rather thick and will actually hold up the cork gaskets while a person is trying to get the pan up and the bolts started.

So..I can get all the bolts in and snugged up and come back in few hours and get them tightened and send the car out.

But as always...how a person chooses to do it is up to them....more than one way to 'skin a cat'.

DUB
Old 09-21-2017, 10:41 PM
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JoeMinnesota
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Originally Posted by DUB
I agree with all of the above...BUT...the correct choice of sealer will aid a person in getting it done much faster....if that is a concern...like it is for me.

Some RTV sealers are rather creamy and can cause for problems on the gaskets squeezing out or the sealer itself getting all squeezed out when torquing the bolts.

I use the Prematex 'right stuff' which is rather thick and will actually hold up the cork gaskets while a person is trying to get the pan up and the bolts started.

So..I can get all the bolts in and snugged up and come back in few hours and get them tightened and send the car out.

But as always...how a person chooses to do it is up to them....more than one way to 'skin a cat'.

DUB
I use High Tack from Permatex to glue the gasket in place in a few places on the corners and sides. It's sticky, but thin, so you can torque the gaskets without stuff oozing out all over the place or the gasket sliding.
Old 09-22-2017, 12:35 AM
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7T1vette
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The sequence of torqueing pan bolts is not nearly as important and torqueing those bolts in "stages". Put bolts in corners finger tight, then install others and torque them to 1/3 of final torque. Make another pass at 2/3 of final torque value. Finally, tighten them all to full torque.

DO NOT OVERTORQUE THESE BOLTS. If you do, you will distort the rail on the oil pan and it will have a hard time sealing.
Old 09-22-2017, 06:21 PM
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DUB
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Originally Posted by JoeMinnesota
I use High Tack from Permatex to glue the gasket in place in a few places on the corners and sides. It's sticky, but thin, so you can torque the gaskets without stuff oozing out all over the place or the gasket sliding.


In some scenarios I use it...but on most of the Corvettes that I work on...some mechanic has already been in there and had screwed things up pretty well..so from straightening out dimpled pan flanges and whatever you can think an idiot can do..I have had to deal with.

I have lost count on the number of Tuned Port engine tubed runner and plenums I have had to deal with where some idiot took a Scotch-brite pad on a Roloc grinder to clean off the factory gaskets and completed ruined the perfectly machined surface. SO when I write 'idiot'... I meant it.

So basically ...when a person gets into a n engine and is trying to get a good seal so something does not leak.,..they may find more than they bargained for.

DUB
Old 09-22-2017, 06:28 PM
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tracdogg2
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Originally Posted by DUB




I have lost count on the number of Tuned Port engine tubed runner and plenums I have had to deal with where some idiot took a Scotch-brite pad on a Roloc grinder to clean off the factory gaskets and completed ruined the perfectly machined surface.

DUB
I can't agree with you more Dub, it's just irritating.
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:31 PM
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leadfoot4
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
The sequence of torqueing pan bolts is not nearly as important and torqueing those bolts in "stages". Put bolts in corners finger tight, then install others and torque them to 1/3 of final torque. Make another pass at 2/3 of final torque value. Finally, tighten them all to full torque.

DO NOT OVERTORQUE THESE BOLTS. If you do, you will distort the rail on the oil pan and it will have a hard time sealing.



However, if you use the newer generation Fel-Pro gasket, it has steel sleeves in all of the bolt holes, making it impossible to over tighten the bolts......
Old 09-22-2017, 11:03 PM
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Ryan Menzies
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74VetteAZ,

I think you have actually started a thread that you have 100% agreement with all the posters here. Well done I would reiterate all the above comments. You're golden !
Old 09-23-2017, 08:46 PM
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Using the new Fel-Pro gaskets with the plastic spacers makes it impossible to OVER-SQUEEZE THE GASKET; you can still overtorque the bolts...to the point that they will snap off!

But, that won't over-squeeze the gasket.
Old 09-24-2017, 09:25 AM
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leadfoot4
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Using the new Fel-Pro gaskets with the plastic spacers makes it impossible to OVER-SQUEEZE THE GASKET; you can still overtorque the bolts...to the point that they will snap off!

But, that won't over-squeeze the gasket.
Anybody that manages to over-torque oil pans bolts, should NOT be working on cars!!
Old 09-24-2017, 06:10 PM
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DUB
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Anybody that manages to over-torque oil pans bolts, should NOT be working on cars!!
100%...but even though that makes total sense that some people should not touch hand tools if they are working on a vehicle......they must be the same people that seem to not grasp the concept of using a manual to aid in in specific torque information.

I also just love it when I go to remove a lug nut and it is on there so tight...I am wondering how it did not snap off due to exceeding the stretch of the stud....and don't get me started on spark plugs.

DUB
Old 09-24-2017, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
100%...but even though that makes total sense that some people should not touch hand tools if they are working on a vehicle......they must be the same people that seem to not grasp the concept of using a manual to aid in in specific torque information.

I also just love it when I go to remove a lug nut and it is on there so tight...I am wondering how it did not snap off due to exceeding the stretch of the stud....and don't get me started on spark plugs.

DUB



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