carriljc

Also, take a look at your wiring and see if there is an interlock with the oil pressure switch. The stock TPI systems had an interlock with oil pressure and the fuel pump.
BUT we really need to know our fuel pressure to begin with.

And here is a link for some reading:
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...-shooting.595/

Jessica Elmer

I have a fuel pressure gauge and it between 40 and 45 psi . I don't have power to the throttle body sensor or injectors. im trying to find an in line fuse or relay before chalking up the ecm to shot. all of my fuses in my original fuse panel are working properly, I cant find the stand alone fuse or relay for the ecm. the only problems I am having are from things that the ecm supplies power to.
The fuel pump is functioning properly and I can hear it when the key is turned to the on position.

Jessica Elmer

I have a fuel pressure gauge and its between 40 and 45 psi, im looking for in line fuse or relay to my ecm, I have no power at throttle body sensor connector or at injectors. all of my original fuse panel is testing fine

DUB

For what this is worth...so others reading this are not confused...
2 seconds is CORRECT for the initial prime of the fuel system when the key is turned ON ...prior to cranking the car. Not opinion...but fact....IF we are using GM's system dynamics as a benchmark.

Jessica...your fuel pressure is fine...and does that pressure HOLD for quite a while even AFTER you turn the key off or the 2 second 'prime' cycle has completed???

Reason I am asking is because...IF you get 40-45 psi...but the pressure drops like a rock right after it has reached these numbers...then you either have:
1.) A fuel injector that is stuck open.
2.) A bad check valve in your fuel pump....if it is an in-tank pump.
3.) Or the connection hose or pulsator attachment on an in-tank fuel pump is also leaking.

I still feel that you have bad ECM due to no 5 volt reference signal that should be coming from the ECM...if they are using the same type of format as what GM did.

DUB

Jessica Elmer

I finally found the inline fuse and once replaced the power was reading on the throttle body sensor so that was great but then I realized I wasn't hearing the fuel pump anymore so after 2 hours troubleshooting finally found loose connector and repaired so now I have power to everything!!!!!!!! I still cant get the car to start or run (whichever you prefer) it turns over or cranks beautifully and I can smell the old gas when trying to start but now im thinking that old gas has slugged up my injectors to the point of not allowing the new fuel to pass through. they click when power is applied but something that smells like that rotted tank is emitting odor now so now I think im at a point where I have no choice but to remove and clen fuel rail and injectors. I cant think of anything else it could be. FYI I found that inline fuse behind the insert in the glove box (only after two days and only by the grace of God!!)
I do have a fuel pressure gauge and its around 42 43 while cranking

Jessica Elmer

my pressure holds.

carriljc

Sounds like you are almost there now. Since you have most things working and you can smell gas, then now may be the time to put a timing light on one of the spark plug leads just to see if they're firing. The last failure I had was from a coil connection making intermittent connection.... I determined that with a timing light and then when I got it to fire I got it to cut-out(die) by wiggling the coil connections... I had an OPEN under some insulation.
There are other ways to check for spark, but using a timing light is easy and all external.

DUB

GLAD to read that your fuel pressure is holding

YES...BAD GAS or old stale gas can cause for major issues.

Knowing that using starting fluid which is quite explosive...and you go the engine to run on it...I doubt you have an issue with your spark...but you can check it regardless.

I have had to clean out bad gas more times than I like to remember..and what I generally do is to remove the sending unit and siphon out the gas...then dry out the tank...then I will remove the fuel filter (due to generally working on the 1984-1996's) I then blow out the supply line to the fuel filter and put a new filter in.

Then I put fresh fuel in the fuel tank....and the fuel return line that goes to the sending unit it.... I leave detached and run it to a large gas can. I hot wire the fuel pump so it is running and watch the fuel coming out of the fuel return hose going into the gas can and wait to see that is it good and clean. Then...while I have my fuel pressure regulator attached to the fuel rail..I purge it to double check and make sure the fuel in the rails is good. Now this is not going to take care of the fuel in the injector..so it may fight a little bit to run smoothly.

When all that looks good..I connect the fuel return hose to the sending unit and crank the engine and get it to run (even if I need starting fluid sparingly)....eventually the car will run in most cases...and IF I still have an issue that is when I perform an injector balance test to make sure all of the injectors are well within the acceptable range. of 5 kPa if I am not mistaken.

I have had to get engines running due to about 5 gallons of water leached into the fuel tank through the fuel cap and got them running and that was even when I could not feel the injector pulse with my tool I use for the injector balance test. I tap on the injector housing while I am commanding them to pulse and I get then to 'click' and then see if I can get them to do their job.

DUB

Jessica Elmer

[QUOTE=DUB;1595708576]GLAD to read that your fuel pressure is holding

YES...BAD GAS or old stale gas can cause for major issues.

Knowing that using starting fluid which is quite explosive...and you go the engine to run on it...I doubt you have an issue with your spark...but you can check it regardless.

I have had to clean out bad gas more times than I like to remember..and what I generally do is to remove the sending unit and siphon out the gas...then dry out the tank...then I will remove the fuel filter (due to generally working on the 1984-1996's) I then blow out the supply line to the fuel filter and put a new filter in.

Then I put fresh fuel in the fuel tank....and the fuel return line that goes to the sending unit it.... I leave detached and run it to a large gas can. I hot wire the fuel pump so it is running and watch the fuel coming out of the fuel return hose going into the gas can and wait to see that is it good and clean. Then...while I have my fuel pressure regulator attached to the fuel rail..I purge it to double check and make sure the fuel in the rails is good. Now this is not going to take care of the fuel in the injector..so it may fight a little bit to run smoothly.

When all that looks good..I connect the fuel return hose to the sending unit and crank the engine and get it to run (even if I need starting fluid sparingly)....eventually the car will run in most cases...and IF I still have an issue that is when I perform an injector balance test to make sure all of the injectors are well within the acceptable range. of 5 kPa if I am not mistaken.

I have had to get engines running due to about 5 gallons of water leached into the fuel tank through the fuel cap and got them running and that was even when I could not feel the injector pulse with my tool I use for the injector balance test. I tap on the injector housing while I am commanding them to pulse and I get then to 'click' and then see if I can get them to do their job.

DUB[/QUOT

Jessica Elmer

this is leaning further and further to an initial problem of distributor control module in the hei. I'll be replacing that tomorrow and I'm feeling good about it. Will update. Anyone had any issues from that? I was researching and came across a thread in this site thru google and it was spot on.

DUB

Hopefully it is the module in the distributor and that corrects your problem. I would also do the check on the pick up coil while you have the distributor cap off.

For what this is worth...in case you are not aware of it. Make sure you do apply that compound to the underside of the new module for heat dissipation. Hopefully your new module comes with pack of it.

DUB