BlackRocket

I thoroughly researched this forum as well as talk to tech reps in the field etc and determined that 18x9.5 with a 5.25" backspace would fit on my '69 coupe.

After receiving the wheels/tires I did a test fit and found the parking brake cable and bracket to be causing interference. After researching this I found that many have removed; (cut off) the bracket and re-locate to the top of the trailing arm. I went to do this project and after removing the brake calipers which meant removing the solid brake lines caused brake fluid to run out in two places!

I then attempted to remove the tail-end of the parking brake cable, but the ball wouldn't free up from the clamp. After loosening the middle V clamp to the maximum extent I found that the ball still wouldn't budge. I later discovered that someone pressed the clip down and was crushing against the cable. With a small open end wrench I was able to pry open the clamp a little in order to slide out the cable.

After carefully cutting off the bracket I found them both to be unuseable and would have to fabricate up some new and beefier versions. I carefully sanded down the surface and painted with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black.

I checked into relocating the parking brake cable to the top of the trailing arm and with the cable wrapped in a stainless steel sleeve there is no way I would be able to re-route it on top and get it to lay flat enough to mount. Also, with an upward angle I would never be able to get it to come back down to clamp the end of the cable to the brake assembly.

I decided to just zip tie the ends of the parking brake cables for the time being.

Now, I thought I was home free and carefully placed one rear wheel onto the studs. Then I found that the rear sway bar; (VB&P) is in the way! The only two alternatives I see are to locate a new narrow sway bar and fabricate some type of interior reaching mounts since the frame will be outboard, or determine which size wheel spacers are needed requiring longer studs.

Anyways, after all the research, notes, detailed careful work...this modification has become a huge hassle.

427Hotrod

Not a C3...but those look like the wheels I have on my C2. Ridler 650's?

The rear wheels are 18x9.5 with 5.25" back spacing. The fronts are 17x7-17's with 4" backspacing.

The tires are 295/45-18's on rear and 235/45-17's on the front.

I moved my emergency brake cable brackets years ago. I'm using 1/2" spacers on rear. They just barely clear without them...but I liked moving them out a little.

I previously had US Mag U111's on it with the same size wheels but slightly smaller tires.




JIM

The Punisher

They make a 5/16" spacer i bought at autozone. you might be able to use it without replacing the wheel studs with longer ones.

cagotzmann

I know there was a post where someone added a bend to the rear bar.

We have exchanged this info previously and for your reasons why I have 18x9.5" with 4.75" BS. No e-brake cable to be moved, and clears the VB&P Rear sway bar , no rear spring issues, without any mods.







Here is the 275 40R 18" tire to fender clearance.

resdoggie

My rear US Mags Rambler's 18x9.5 5.25bs fit fine on my '76 with the stock swaybar. I only needed to relocate the parking brake cable bracket to the top of the TA and that was questionable if I really needed to do it. Do you really need that swaybar?

roscobbc

Why use the rear sway bar - with the vastly improved amount of rubber on the road a stock sway bar isn't going to do much. I used 18 x 9" rim with 5" back space and 285/40/18. Junked the stock sway bar - inside of tyre normally has 1/4" to 3/8" clearance but just 'kisses' the frame when cornering hard (no doubt due to trailing arm bushing flex) - Use 1/2" spacers and/or skinnier rubber.