no interior lights, now car wont start
#21
Pro
You should have 12 volts not running and 13.7 running. You are measuring this with a known good meter on proper scale? Read the battery voltage right across it to ensure your meter reads 12.6 or so?
#22
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Thread Starter
not getting into semantics of why..., i rechecked the wires.
6v at the + side of the coil. nothing at the negative. 12v on the white wire for the courtesy lights, no continuity to ground. orange wire on the left courtesy light. 12v across the battery. so i have no ground i guess...where in the world do i start looking for that? its only the engine starting and the courtesy and dash , as they are connected, lights that arent working.
seriously, beers for all once this is working! im pretty sure after my test of the coil, i managed to smoke it, since im getting low reading on the secondary coil, but if i can get the couresty lights working, and 12v to the + side, i'll feel like i made progress and go from there on starting.
6v at the + side of the coil. nothing at the negative. 12v on the white wire for the courtesy lights, no continuity to ground. orange wire on the left courtesy light. 12v across the battery. so i have no ground i guess...where in the world do i start looking for that? its only the engine starting and the courtesy and dash , as they are connected, lights that arent working.
seriously, beers for all once this is working! im pretty sure after my test of the coil, i managed to smoke it, since im getting low reading on the secondary coil, but if i can get the couresty lights working, and 12v to the + side, i'll feel like i made progress and go from there on starting.
Last edited by target30; 10-17-2017 at 06:02 PM.
#23
Pro
The ground for the courtesy lights is through the door switches . One wire to ground and the other to the light. Both doors are tied together. The main ground for the interior is on the birdcage up above the fuse box. It is hard to get at. With dash out it is accessible. For test purposes I would run a ground right from negative battery to lights. You can also jumper from the frame to the coil to get a ground. I think your coil is shot from readings above
#24
Advanced
Thread Starter
The ground for the courtesy lights is through the door switches . One wire to ground and the other to the light. Both doors are tied together. The main ground for the interior is on the birdcage up above the fuse box. It is hard to get at. With dash out it is accessible. For test purposes I would run a ground right from negative battery to lights. You can also jumper from the frame to the coil to get a ground. I think your coil is shot from readings above
#25
Le Mans Master
With engine OFF, turn on the headlamps (need them in UP position to see how light intensity changes). Now try to start the car. If the headlamps do not dim, you have a problem with battery/ground cables and/or connections. If the lamps go really dim or go out completely while cranking, your battery is SHOT.
[Headlamps can be used as a 'cheap' ammeter for diagnosing problems, sometimes.]
[Headlamps can be used as a 'cheap' ammeter for diagnosing problems, sometimes.]
#26
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Thread Starter
ok, so i have a new coil in, only getting 6v to the + side, nothing to the -. with the key in the on position. am i correct in thinking the distributor is what grounds the circuit? since there is supposed to be power on the - side of the coil, then passes through to the distributor. im wondering if the ground is bad there.
on the lights end, i grounded the white wire as a test, and do get courtesy lights, but no gauge lights. the courtesy lights also do not go off over time. i let it sit for about 10 minutes with the key out and the doors closed.
on the lights end, i grounded the white wire as a test, and do get courtesy lights, but no gauge lights. the courtesy lights also do not go off over time. i let it sit for about 10 minutes with the key out and the doors closed.
#27
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Thread Starter
so i finally pulled a plug, and i do have spark, so thats good. car used to start for a couple seconds when i put gas in the carb, but now it doesnt want to. going to either rebuild the carb or get a new one.
so on to the interior lights! still no idea...
so on to the interior lights! still no idea...
#28
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Thread Starter
the courtesy lights do work if you turn the headlight switch all the way to the left. i have some pics that i'll put up of something that i have no idea what it is, that doesnt look great too...
#29
Pro
Do you have points on your car or electronic ignition. There are 2 wires to the coil. Yellow one comes from starter and supplies 12 volts to coil when key is in start position. Other wire is resistive (135 ohms) and reduces voltage to coil when running to 6-9 volts . If you have points then the negative wire from coil goes to them. If not then battery negative goes to coil negative.
If you have spark then coils is ok.
If you have spark then coils is ok.
Last edited by henrikse; 10-21-2017 at 10:57 AM.
#30
Advanced
Thread Starter
fairly certain the carb is gunked up. i had pulled the float bowl to check and clean it, when i put it back together, the bottom 2 big screws wont tighten down. im either going to try a rebuild kit, or just buy a new carb for it. its a Holley. has 7002-1 stamped on it, which through alot, and i mean alot, of searching, seems to be a 4165. im worried the 2 bottom screws are stripped.
but to answer your question, no, no fuel is getting through anymore(but fuel is finally getting up to it. it used to start up with putting fuel in the carb, for a second and run.
still trying to figure out what happened to the courtesy lights though.
but to answer your question, no, no fuel is getting through anymore(but fuel is finally getting up to it. it used to start up with putting fuel in the carb, for a second and run.
still trying to figure out what happened to the courtesy lights though.
#31
Advanced
Thread Starter
so i rebuilt the carb. every hole blown through, everything replaced that could be. perfectly clean. float bowl is getting fuel, nothing going into chamber. jets were clean and open. im getting frustrated...anyone selling a working carb!
#32
Le Mans Master
If the float bowl has the correct fuel level and you stated that all the passages were clean, I'm not understanding "nothing going into the chamber". No accelerator pump maybe?
#34
Pro
If you prime the carb with gas does it start? You can put gas in a pop bottle with a tube ans keep feeding gas to ensure it is running properly. If it is your carb is the problem which it sounds like.
The lights work when you turn headlight so one or both of the door switches.(front of door) must be bad or wires off. ou can take kick panels off and check wires or unscrew switches and test them on bench
The lights work when you turn headlight so one or both of the door switches.(front of door) must be bad or wires off. ou can take kick panels off and check wires or unscrew switches and test them on bench
#35
Advanced
Thread Starter
well, i tracked the no gas issue to the accelerator pump being tight for some reason. took the bowl off, and it felt fine. put it back together and it works now. i cant get the car to run without pumping the pedal. currently looking up how to tune the carb. im getting an occasional backfire out of the tailpipe, and a backfire up through the carb as well. i saw a video somewhere addressing this, but i cant find it anymore!
#36
Le Mans Master
Back fire from both. I'd check the plug wires for being swapped somewhere, firing order is not right. Check the cap for being cracked or a carbon track inside it.
#37
Advanced
Thread Starter
i hope i dont have to take this stupid carb off and apart again...
#38
Le Mans Master
Looks like some junk got into the rear needle and seat. I'd just pull the rear float bowl and check. Your 7002 carb does not have externally adjustable floats.
#39
Advanced
Thread Starter
shes out of the garage for the first time in years though! rear tire only holds air for about an hour...they are only 30 years old, but the tread is like new! (yes i am going to replace them...)