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no interior lights, now car wont start

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Old 10-17-2017, 04:34 PM
  #21  
henrikse
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You should have 12 volts not running and 13.7 running. You are measuring this with a known good meter on proper scale? Read the battery voltage right across it to ensure your meter reads 12.6 or so?
Old 10-17-2017, 05:59 PM
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not getting into semantics of why..., i rechecked the wires.

6v at the + side of the coil. nothing at the negative. 12v on the white wire for the courtesy lights, no continuity to ground. orange wire on the left courtesy light. 12v across the battery. so i have no ground i guess...where in the world do i start looking for that? its only the engine starting and the courtesy and dash , as they are connected, lights that arent working.

seriously, beers for all once this is working! im pretty sure after my test of the coil, i managed to smoke it, since im getting low reading on the secondary coil, but if i can get the couresty lights working, and 12v to the + side, i'll feel like i made progress and go from there on starting.

Last edited by target30; 10-17-2017 at 06:02 PM.
Old 10-17-2017, 11:46 PM
  #23  
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The ground for the courtesy lights is through the door switches . One wire to ground and the other to the light. Both doors are tied together. The main ground for the interior is on the birdcage up above the fuse box. It is hard to get at. With dash out it is accessible. For test purposes I would run a ground right from negative battery to lights. You can also jumper from the frame to the coil to get a ground. I think your coil is shot from readings above
Old 10-19-2017, 11:56 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by henrikse
The ground for the courtesy lights is through the door switches . One wire to ground and the other to the light. Both doors are tied together. The main ground for the interior is on the birdcage up above the fuse box. It is hard to get at. With dash out it is accessible. For test purposes I would run a ground right from negative battery to lights. You can also jumper from the frame to the coil to get a ground. I think your coil is shot from readings above
cool, thank you. ill grab a new coil at autozone this afternoon. ill search out the door switch ground before i start digging into the dash...its such a pain to work up under that thing!
Old 10-19-2017, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
With engine OFF, turn on the headlamps (need them in UP position to see how light intensity changes). Now try to start the car. If the headlamps do not dim, you have a problem with battery/ground cables and/or connections. If the lamps go really dim or go out completely while cranking, your battery is SHOT.

[Headlamps can be used as a 'cheap' ammeter for diagnosing problems, sometimes.]
Thanks for the info.
Old 10-20-2017, 04:00 PM
  #26  
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ok, so i have a new coil in, only getting 6v to the + side, nothing to the -. with the key in the on position. am i correct in thinking the distributor is what grounds the circuit? since there is supposed to be power on the - side of the coil, then passes through to the distributor. im wondering if the ground is bad there.

on the lights end, i grounded the white wire as a test, and do get courtesy lights, but no gauge lights. the courtesy lights also do not go off over time. i let it sit for about 10 minutes with the key out and the doors closed.
Old 10-20-2017, 05:09 PM
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so i finally pulled a plug, and i do have spark, so thats good. car used to start for a couple seconds when i put gas in the carb, but now it doesnt want to. going to either rebuild the carb or get a new one.

so on to the interior lights! still no idea...
Old 10-20-2017, 06:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by target30
so i finally pulled a plug, and i do have spark, so thats good. car used to start for a couple seconds when i put gas in the carb, but now it doesnt want to. going to either rebuild the carb or get a new one.

so on to the interior lights! still no idea...
the courtesy lights do work if you turn the headlight switch all the way to the left. i have some pics that i'll put up of something that i have no idea what it is, that doesnt look great too...
Old 10-21-2017, 12:48 AM
  #29  
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Do you have points on your car or electronic ignition. There are 2 wires to the coil. Yellow one comes from starter and supplies 12 volts to coil when key is in start position. Other wire is resistive (135 ohms) and reduces voltage to coil when running to 6-9 volts . If you have points then the negative wire from coil goes to them. If not then battery negative goes to coil negative.
If you have spark then coils is ok.

Last edited by henrikse; 10-21-2017 at 10:57 AM.
Old 10-21-2017, 09:30 AM
  #30  
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fairly certain the carb is gunked up. i had pulled the float bowl to check and clean it, when i put it back together, the bottom 2 big screws wont tighten down. im either going to try a rebuild kit, or just buy a new carb for it. its a Holley. has 7002-1 stamped on it, which through alot, and i mean alot, of searching, seems to be a 4165. im worried the 2 bottom screws are stripped.

but to answer your question, no, no fuel is getting through anymore(but fuel is finally getting up to it. it used to start up with putting fuel in the carb, for a second and run.

still trying to figure out what happened to the courtesy lights though.
Old 10-26-2017, 04:59 PM
  #31  
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so i rebuilt the carb. every hole blown through, everything replaced that could be. perfectly clean. float bowl is getting fuel, nothing going into chamber. jets were clean and open. im getting frustrated...anyone selling a working carb!
Old 10-28-2017, 09:55 PM
  #32  
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If the float bowl has the correct fuel level and you stated that all the passages were clean, I'm not understanding "nothing going into the chamber". No accelerator pump maybe?
Old 10-29-2017, 09:51 AM
  #33  
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There should be 12-13 vdc at the interior light. I don't think it's possible to get 26 unless you have 2 batteries.
Old 10-29-2017, 11:46 AM
  #34  
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If you prime the carb with gas does it start? You can put gas in a pop bottle with a tube ans keep feeding gas to ensure it is running properly. If it is your carb is the problem which it sounds like.
The lights work when you turn headlight so one or both of the door switches.(front of door) must be bad or wires off. ou can take kick panels off and check wires or unscrew switches and test them on bench
Old 10-29-2017, 02:10 PM
  #35  
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well, i tracked the no gas issue to the accelerator pump being tight for some reason. took the bowl off, and it felt fine. put it back together and it works now. i cant get the car to run without pumping the pedal. currently looking up how to tune the carb. im getting an occasional backfire out of the tailpipe, and a backfire up through the carb as well. i saw a video somewhere addressing this, but i cant find it anymore!
Old 10-29-2017, 02:37 PM
  #36  
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Back fire from both. I'd check the plug wires for being swapped somewhere, firing order is not right. Check the cap for being cracked or a carbon track inside it.
Old 10-29-2017, 03:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TimAT
Back fire from both. I'd check the plug wires for being swapped somewhere, firing order is not right. Check the cap for being cracked or a carbon track inside it.
i got it to run and idle. getting a good vacuum leak somewhere in or near the carb. i tried using carb cleaner to spray around it, but didnt find anything. was idleing ok at 1000rpm, after a few minutes i gave it a couple revs, and then one of the secondary carbs started leaking fuel into the bowl and now it idles up over 2k and i cant get it to stop dripping or idling that high.

i hope i dont have to take this stupid carb off and apart again...

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Old 10-29-2017, 03:10 PM
  #38  
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Looks like some junk got into the rear needle and seat. I'd just pull the rear float bowl and check. Your 7002 carb does not have externally adjustable floats.
Old 10-29-2017, 03:21 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TimAT
Looks like some junk got into the rear needle and seat. I'd just pull the rear float bowl and check. Your 7002 carb does not have externally adjustable floats.
will take a look at it later, but thanks. getting real tired of smelling like gas! haha!

shes out of the garage for the first time in years though! rear tire only holds air for about an hour...they are only 30 years old, but the tread is like new! (yes i am going to replace them...)
Old 10-29-2017, 03:27 PM
  #40  
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Great new that you have made progress!! Keep
on truckin!!


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