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3896962 vs comp 12-210-2

Old 10-18-2017, 08:31 AM
  #21  
resdoggie
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp

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Originally Posted by JoeMinnesota
Resdog - Curious - did you dyno your motor before chassis dyno?
No. My engine was built in phases, so to speak. It was dyno'd on a Mustang dyno and correction factors applied. Also, the car had 3.55's at the time. Car runs much better now with 4.11's. Gas sux but hey, I didn't build the engine with economy in mind, lol. Also using the stock clutch type oem cooling fan so I guess I lost about 30 hp, lol.

Last edited by resdoggie; 10-18-2017 at 08:45 AM.
Old 10-18-2017, 08:43 AM
  #22  
resdoggie
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Originally Posted by ariba
What was the approximate total cost?
It wasn't cheap but it's been reliable and goes fast. Heads were $1600 and installed right out of the box. Pistons were installed years ago in phase one after engine block was bored .030" over. Intake was $200, retrofitting cam was about $1000 for cam, lifters, pushrods, Holley 650 street hp about $600, plus other parts like water pump, cast aluminium cam cover, Holley fuel pump, programmable distributor, arp fasteners, etc. So, several thousand gone into the engine which I already had with a forged L-82 crank and 4 bolt block.
Old 10-19-2017, 11:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Domobomb
Another option for you: https://www.yearone.com/Product/1967-81-camaro/ct350pc1

$3200, 400hp, has a roller cam and includes an intake.

They have one with aluminum heads too if you want the weight savings for an extra $500.
Thanks
there were a lot of options came out after I calculated the $$ VS H.P
Old 10-20-2017, 08:55 AM
  #24  
resdoggie
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Be very cautious on cheap crate motors. Reliability may not be included in the cost.
Old 10-22-2017, 12:42 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Be very cautious on cheap crate motors. Reliability may not be included in the cost.
Do you mean Blue print ones or other crate motors in the market?
Old 10-22-2017, 11:35 AM
  #26  
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If you're only going to be out cruising around, a cheaper crate motor should be fine. There are good reasons why forged vs cast parts, for example, defines cheap vs better built which is reflected in the price of the engine.
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Old 10-22-2017, 12:01 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Be very cautious on cheap crate motors. Reliability may not be included in the cost.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...iABEgLAr_D_BwE

add your 180 AFRs your cam intake think its a better choice long term. With that cam, good dual plane youd have astrong runner
on crates..if they built it and it lived through their dyno...maybe.

Any "put it together" deal Ive bought was a friggin disaster..wrong parts crappy machining-every time you stand on it you worry. One "seemed" to be ok but tore it apart at 1200 mi and had serious bearing issues (horrible balance job to boot)
Never again

Last edited by cv67; 10-22-2017 at 12:05 PM.
Old 10-25-2017, 12:14 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
If you're only going to be out cruising around, a cheaper crate motor should be fine. There are good reasons why forged vs cast parts, for example, defines cheap vs better built which is reflected in the price of the engine.
You are right. I prefer better quality even if I pay more. I am all ready $12,000 in good new parts. Why go cheap in the end.


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