Eastwood Aluma Blast
#2
Race Director
Like most buzz can paints they look pretty good for some period of time. A clean surface is very important to lifespan. I'm sure this product is similar(maybe exactly the same as) to Seymour Alumi Blast. I've had good luck with the Seymour.
What are you painting?
What are you painting?
Last edited by claysmoker; 10-22-2017 at 01:38 AM.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Currently working on the rear diff and batwing. But, will also want to do the case on my Richmond trans. Considering the bellhousing (even though it's new, for consistency, so it will look the same as the other cast aluminum parts), intake manifold, alternator, and alum water pump. I'm looking for a long lasting finish that looks like a fresh-from-foundry aluminum look. In addition to considering paint, I was looking into some sort of spray on caustic compound. Heard suggestions such as muriatic acid and Easy Off for this.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi vs,
I've used Aluma Blast in a VERY thin coat to even out the surface appearance on a 4-speed main case. It worked just fine.
I guess the condition and color of the piece being worked on will determine how satisfactory the results are.
Regards,
Alan
The main case is a different color material than the tail housing and I wanted to maintain that difference.
I've used Aluma Blast in a VERY thin coat to even out the surface appearance on a 4-speed main case. It worked just fine.
I guess the condition and color of the piece being worked on will determine how satisfactory the results are.
Regards,
Alan
The main case is a different color material than the tail housing and I wanted to maintain that difference.
#5
Team Owner
I just rebuilt the v-twin eng on a can am quad,and used walmart ''chrome'' wheel cleaner on the aluminum cases,heads and other parts,,it really cleaned up the aluminum and seemed to get into the little nooks/crannys,to get the oil/grease out,used a scrub brush too and it smells like ''muratic acid'' too
and ive painted things ''rear diff housing'' with aluma blast paint and it turned out ok and even
and ive painted things ''rear diff housing'' with aluma blast paint and it turned out ok and even
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vetski179 (10-22-2017)
#6
Instructor
I just painted my batwing last month with it, along withe some other rear end parts. Good nozzle and spray coverage. Sprayed some matte clear over it. Think it came out real good but don't know about the long term. Should be fine. I'm not painting the diff. Hoping to assemble it this week.
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vetski179 (10-24-2017)
#7
Team Owner
I much prefer using Seymour paints or VHT paints for metal-colored surfaces. Seymour Cast-Blast for exhaust manifolds is THE BEST!!
VHT on alternator housings (etc) then baked for curing will last MANY years without changing appearance. (I have 8 years on my '71 alt and it still looks like the day it was painted/baked with VHT cast aluminum paint.)
VHT on alternator housings (etc) then baked for curing will last MANY years without changing appearance. (I have 8 years on my '71 alt and it still looks like the day it was painted/baked with VHT cast aluminum paint.)
Last edited by 7T1vette; 10-23-2017 at 05:18 PM.
#8
Race Director
I much prefer using Seymour paints or VHT paints for metal-colored surfaces. Seymour Cast-Blast for exhaust manifolds is THE BEST!!
VHT on alternator housings (etc) then baked for curing will last MANY years without changing appearance. (I have 8 years on my '71 alt and it still looks like the day it was painted/baked with VHT cast aluminum paint.)
VHT on alternator housings (etc) then baked for curing will last MANY years without changing appearance. (I have 8 years on my '71 alt and it still looks like the day it was painted/baked with VHT cast aluminum paint.)
DIUB
#9
Instructor
I've used the cast blast with great sucess and just finished the can spraying the yokes on the rear diff. Just looked at the VHT. Nice line of products. Whats your curing process? Oven obviously? How long?
#10
Team Owner
Instructions are on the can. It's a little different between different paints.
At least, the VHT stuff doesn't stink to high Heaven. The Seymour (exhaust manifold) paint really smokes and stinks for about 4-6 hours at working engine temps. It's best to do that in the summer so you can leave windows down when curing them 'on the engine'. Since curing temp is in the 800*+F range, not too many ovens will get that done. But, the end result is definitely worth it!!
At least, the VHT stuff doesn't stink to high Heaven. The Seymour (exhaust manifold) paint really smokes and stinks for about 4-6 hours at working engine temps. It's best to do that in the summer so you can leave windows down when curing them 'on the engine'. Since curing temp is in the 800*+F range, not too many ovens will get that done. But, the end result is definitely worth it!!
Last edited by 7T1vette; 10-24-2017 at 12:47 AM.
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81vettski (10-24-2017)
#11
Racer
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal.html
Impervious to solvents, tough as nails, looks like aluminum. Spray it with brake cleaner, diff oil or brake fluid won't soften it (can't do that with anything spray can). Lasts for many years, not months.
Impervious to solvents, tough as nails, looks like aluminum. Spray it with brake cleaner, diff oil or brake fluid won't soften it (can't do that with anything spray can). Lasts for many years, not months.
#12
Race Director
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal.html
Impervious to solvents, tough as nails, looks like aluminum. Spray it with brake cleaner, diff oil or brake fluid won't soften it (can't do that with anything spray can). Lasts for many years, not months.
Impervious to solvents, tough as nails, looks like aluminum. Spray it with brake cleaner, diff oil or brake fluid won't soften it (can't do that with anything spray can). Lasts for many years, not months.
DUB
#13
I can speak to the longevity.
I used Eastwood Alumi-Blast (and many other Eastwood paints) on several parts of my 1967 Ford Galaxie restoration in 1993.
Still perfect today.
I used Eastwood Alumi-Blast (and many other Eastwood paints) on several parts of my 1967 Ford Galaxie restoration in 1993.
Still perfect today.
#14
Racer
I've been using this and other mcu's since the early 80's. I even use it with fiberglass cloth to repair and fabricate. Buy small cans though, hard to get lengthy shelf life. I'll use their silver mcu and spray their diamond finish clear on top for a super duty silver finish.
Also check out http://www.masterseriesct.com
#15
Race Director
Dub,
I've been using this and other mcu's since the early 80's. I even use it with fiberglass cloth to repair and fabricate. Buy small cans though, hard to get lengthy shelf life. I'll use their silver mcu and spray their diamond finish clear on top for a super duty silver finish.
Also check out http://www.masterseriesct.com
I've been using this and other mcu's since the early 80's. I even use it with fiberglass cloth to repair and fabricate. Buy small cans though, hard to get lengthy shelf life. I'll use their silver mcu and spray their diamond finish clear on top for a super duty silver finish.
Also check out http://www.masterseriesct.com
I will call them and talk with the tech department about application issues if I can not find what I need to know off the website.
Thanks again!
DUB