PainfullySlow

This will be a master list to cover the many questions that will likely come up during this build.

THE GOAL

The intention is to build a 383 stroker somewhere in the 400-450hp range. This will be for a street-only car that will never see track duty. The goal is to have it mild mannered enough to drive on the streets yet not put me to sleep when my right foot occasionally hits the floor.

I am looking for a classic muscle-car exhaust note so the cam should be lumpy enough for that but not to the point where the car is shaking itself to bits at idle. This will be a driver.

It will be mated up to a WC T5 5-speed so would also need the correct bellhousing. Rear end gearing not yet determined.

I will be building this myself (other than obvious machine shop work) so I am not interested in a short block/long block/crate engine solution unless it is overwhelmingly less expensive (think half). The adventure of the build is part of the fun.

I have the luxury of time so I can afford to take a bit to source the parts if that makes the most economic sense. I don't mind scouring forums/ebay/whatever to look for the right parts.


REQUIREMENTS

Naturally aspirated/Carburated. Do not suggest an LS swap.
Hydraulic roller cam
Roller Rockers

THE BUDGET

Budget is a concern. That should not be interpreted as "I am cheap" but rather that I am looking to get this done as inexpensively as possible without compromising the final goal. I am not one to throw money at a problem without any thought or consideration but I am not adverse to spending if it is the wisest course of action.

I am fine with used parts as long as it makes sense; i.e. If buying a used set of heads for $500 requires $500 in work to them to be equal to a new set of $900 heads...well, you can see where I am going.

This leaves me with a whole bunch of questions for each piece. Basically which parts would best suit my build goal, and where to get them?

Block
Rotating Assy or individual crank/rods/pistons/rings
Camshaft
Heads
Rockers
Intake Manifold
Bellhousing
Flywheel
Harmonic Balancer
Water Pump

I can see how this could rapidly get out of hand so let's start with the basics: What block would be best suited to this build and why?

mobird

At that power level, any stock 350 block would be fine. But for peace of mind, a later 4-bolt roller block would be your best bet. Check out Summit racing, they have a prepped bare block 350 that already has bearings installed and is clearanced for a 383 stroker crank for like $700.

Rodnok1

For the money a machine shop wants I went with new block myself.
Saves a lot of hassle and surprises from an unknown block.

resdoggie

Jegs and Summit are hassle free parts sources with good pricing, delivery and customer service, at least in my experience up here in the great white north.

jim-81

- going to keep track of this thread as this is exactly what I am planning - continue!

PainfullySlow

This is great info, thank you.

I am mechanically inclined but cars are not my wheelhouse (done tons of high HP motorcycle engines) so forgive my ignorance. How do I know which blocks are roller and which are not? I see the blocks you mention on Summit for $700 + freight but not sure if those are roller.

Good to note. I had totally forgotten about local machine shops. A quick search just revealed a place not far from me that is very highly reviewed. They have this on their website:

GM 350cid/383cid 4-bolt Machined Engine Block
$750.00
MACHINED & READY TO ASSEMBLE!
*ARP PERFORMANCE BOLTS INCLUDED*
The perfect block for your next performance engine.
OEM GM 350cid Engine Block (1-pc & 2pc rear seal *please check for availability/Professionally Hot Tanked, Power Washed, Wire Brushed & Cleaned/Magnetic Particle Inspected/All Holes Have Been Tapped/Oil Galley Plugs Have Been Repalced and Front Holes Tapped To Accept Pipe Plugs/Cylinders Have Been Bored and Plateau Honed Oversize (.030"-.040"-.060" *please check on availability/Cylinder Decks Have Been Resurfaced & Squared to the Crankshaft/Main Journals Have Been Align Honed/Hand-Clearanced to Accept a 383cid Stroker Rotating Assembly/Honed Lifter Holes/Brass Freeze Plugs & Camshaft Bearings Have Been Installed/Camshaft Has Been Test Fit/ARP Performance Main Bolts are Included and Already Torqued to Caps
This machined engine block is ready to hit the engine stand right out of the crate.
Also available with our 383cid engine kit which includes the rotating assembly, gaskets, oil pump, lifters and aluminum performance cylinder heads
Have us build the short-block for you.
*Please Contact Us For A Shipping Quote*

Seems like the exact thing offered by Summit except this is $50 more but comes with the ARP bolts for the caps. Likely this would be less expensive than the freight of the Summit block plus I would establish a relationship with the local shop. Unless there is something that I am not seeing. It is already clearanced (like the summit) so this may be the way to go.

Dynra Rockets

If using a junkyard WCT5 I would stick with a 350.

.02
R

Dennis Tapp

What is wrong with the block in the car? You said it was not for racing and you are not in a hurry. Let your machine shop build that one into your street machine.

TimAT

I suspect the ARP main bolts will more than make up for the $50 difference. I'd go with studs, but that's just me.
IMHO, it's always a good thing to use a machine shop that is within a reasonable distance. If you run into a problem, you can get to them without too much hassle. The other side of that is there are now a big batch of engine builders/machine shops that are very well known for the quality of work.

cardo0

You should post more specific questions when you have them but my suggestion is to buy a few of the inexpensive books for building the sbc. They really have more what you need and how to put it together than any of us can put in 1 post.

I recommend starting with D. Vizards "How to build the sbc for Performance on a Budget". He reviews all the stock sbc heads for you and a few aftermarket heads to. But since you referring to a low budget build you need to shop Hypereutectic pistons, cast cranks and more likely vortec iron heads.

If you want someone to do the shopping for you then good luck, your on your own. But as a rule I use Summit racing for price comparisons.

Good luck.

BTW it would seem your actually serious if you can post some information on your car - at least in your profile.

BKbroiler

I have a 383 in my 77 that is within your HP range, maybe less. This is an example of a budget minded build that also shows how you don't need a lot of the more costly components.
You're not interested in racing but I'll point out my racing history with this engine to show how much "abuse" this combination has endured and continues to endure.
I'm using my original, 2 bolt block, with original main bearing bolts. I have an Eagle cast steel crank using original rods - reconditioned and ARP bolts. I do have JE forged pistons, 9.7:1 CR. I have a hyd roller cam and iron Vortec heads, which do have a lot of work in them. I use ARP head bolts since the heads have been off a few times.
This combination runs low twelves in the quarter, at 110 mph. I have about 250 runs on it and over 10,000 street miles over the last 10 years. So, you can reach your goals on a modest budget.

v2racing

BK's advice and his parts build are a good example of a nice budget build. For 400 to 450 HP, a 4 bolt main and forged crank aren't really necessary. I would go forged pistons though.

I wouldn't go over 10 to 1 with iron heads, but you could go to 10.5 with aluminum heads.

A cam in the 230's @ .050" should give you that sound with power in your target and be very streetable.

On a build like this I would stick to a dual plane intake like a Edelbrock RPM or RPM Air Gap. A 750 double pumper would work well, but a good tuned Quadrajet would do the job too.

A recurved stock HEI distributor with an aftermarket performance module will give you all the spark you need.

Long tube headers and 2.5" exhaust should round out the build.

Mike

PainfullySlow

I appreciate it. It isn't stock, and I got it for free so IF it grenades down the line I will consider another option.

I am still looking for the right project car so I do not have a block yet. I am looking to build this engine over the winter so when spring time comes I have it ready to bolt in.

As for using an existing block, it is my understanding that by the time a block goes through magnaflux, cleaning, boring, honing, cam bearings, etc that I would be close to the $750 tag of that already worked over block. Is this not correct?

That was my thinking as well, that the bolts would make up the difference. I too would prefer studs however for such a mild build I would think that conventional bolts would suffice. If I go with this local machine shop route then I will talk to them about the price difference between studs and bolts.

Funny you should mention that book, I purchased it two days ago and began reading it last night. Not looking for anyone to do shopping, I am simply looking to draw upon the collective wisdom of those who came before me. Feel free to contribute or not, as you like.

As I said above, I am still looking for the right project car for me so there is nothing in my profile. I am merely looking to get a jump start on the project over the winter where I can work on an engine in my heated shop that is not big enough for an entire car.

Anyway, I am deadly serious. I am not into wasting my (or anyone elses) time.

Also, I tried to convey that this does not have to be a budget build as long as there is justification for the expense. I am certain that I could buy a $4k aluminum block and $2k heads and make it produce 450hp, but that would be a big waste of money, no? That is what I am trying to avoid, nothing more.

I am actually very much into racing...just not cars. After racing motorcycles there isn't much that car racing has to offer me :-(. Trust me, I wish it were otherwise but there is no going back.

I do appreciate your input and it goes in line with other information that I was receiving. I was planning on using the ARP line of fasteners throughout the block simply because of their rock-solid rep.

A question about your heads: Since you had to put a lot of work into the heads (which I am not able to myself, I do not think) by the time I am done paying a machine shop for massaging those Vortec heads would it not be less expensive to go with a quality aftermarket set? That seems to be the general thinking from what I have read but would appreciate your first-hand experience.

I was hoping to find a used set of AFRs or similar...

Mike, thank you for this info! I think based on what I have been hearing that even though the power I am looking for may be right on the edge of forged pistons, it seems that would be the wise choice for longevity and peace of mind.

I will take a look at that cam profile and see what I can come up with.

I was going to be looking at a dual plane manifold but thanks for the specific recommendations. I will look into both of those models.

I will continue to look for a Holley. I worked for GM in the late 80's where the Rochesters were affectionately referred to as "Quadrabog"s so even though I am sure they are fine carbs, I just can't get past that :-p

BKbroiler

I agree on the Vortec head issue. I think a set of recent Edelbrock aluminum units would be a better choice at this point. For me it was an evolutionary process. Just so you know, my heads have been ported, surfaced, pushrod holes enlarged, spring pockets cut, valve stem bosses cut shorter and an upgraded valve job done.

jb78L-82

I rebuilt/upgraded my 78 L-82 4 speed in 2014 but wanted to keep as much 4 bolt L-82 as much as possible. Reconditioned the forged L-82 crank, reconditioned L-82 rods, mildly ported L-82 aluminum intake, reused the L-82 dual snorkel cold air intake...you get the idea.

Bored the block .030, did not deck the block (checked for straightness though), ARP head bolts.

AFR 180 64 CC heads, Howards roller cam for STRONG mid range torque (.525/.525 lift, duration 219/225...mid range punch, LSA 110), JE forged racing pistons, .015 head gasket-compression 10.2 :1). XS power 1 7/8 inch Long tube headers

Idles better the OEM L-82 (perfectly smooth), has impeccable cruise manners, pulls like a freight train from 2,000-6,000 RPM..could not be happier.

Unless you are looking for over 500+ Gross HP, you are easily in the range of the 355 and it can be built for very strong mid range torque with streetable high rpm HP...I did it with the help of the advice of some on this forum like 63Mako and an expert builder in my area who did the engine bottom end.

CheezMoe

Here is how I did mine wth same objectives: No tracking, Street Manners, Sweet Idle, Pin you in your seat when desired! Formula for fun!

You didnt ask about bottom end outside the block. To me this is where the most of the money should go. I went with Scat Cast Steel for Crank and Ibeam Rods. Pistons I went overboard and spent way too much but I think most would agree a good set of Mahle HT's are probably more than adequate.

Hope this helps. Good luck!