74_stingray

Rick, I appreciate the compliment, thank you. I did cut some coil from the spring, approximately 1/2 of coil. I don’t believe that you could actually notice any difference in having 1/2 coil removed, hindsight I would cut a little more, I would like to have the front another 1/2” lower. It’s trial and error, that’s one of the beauty’s of coil overs for sure. The front end is not overly stiff in my opinion.
The Global West arms are extremely well made and are a complete bolt on part. All components are bolted together, properly torqued, the bushings are pre greased, and new bolts are provided. They are definitely not the least expensive option. The Global West lower arms are coil over compatable if one decides to convert down the road as the lower arms are pre drilled for standard shock and coil over, they also manufacture a coil over only option.
Coil over link
Here is a photo of the lower arm that shows the holes pre drilled.
Eddy

frosty80

Just want to point out that the cheap tubular arms weigh about the same as the global west. The imported cheap control arms are similar to the global west but they are definitely not the same. Global West is made in the USA and the welds in the pictures look much better than the welds on the cheap set I got. I still think the cheap set is great value depending on how they ride once one of us gets them on the road, but if you can buy the Global West I would absolutely recommend it for ease of install and to guarantee there is not some extreme unfixable flaw with the control arms that cant be solved.

I just remembered another manufacturing issue I ran into that isnt game ending but a bit wonky. The cross shaft area that is machined down to go into the bushing, 1 of out 4 of them on the upper control arms was slightly larger than the other 3 and it was clear they didnt machine it down to the correct spec, its just enough to make the bushing a bit tighter, any more and it would be an issue but luckily it was ok enough on mine. Theres just a lot of little things that need to be cleaned up on the cheap arms, enough that I could make a whole video about it. I would love to check out the global west arms and compare them next to the cheap ones, I can only imagine that they do not have any of the problems I ran into with the cheap ones, I'm especially curious if the aluminum component of their bushing is pressed in or has a groove for the grease to solve the grease fitting issue.

74_stingray

frosty80, I believe this video will answer your questions regarding the GW bushings.
Eddy

PainfullySlow

I have been actively following this as I am getting close to where I will need to make a decision on which way to go. Clearly the GW arms are superior and require less work, but I am not certain that I can afford the pricetag and so am continuing to look at other options.

I actually came across this today: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253286890748

Visually (if the picture is to be believed) they look identical to the ones everyone else has been getting from ebay. I am certain they are all made at a single overseas manufacturer and resold through different vendors.

I am considering picking up a set like this and seeing if i can make it work since if they are a total loss I can just refinish the OEM control arms with the poly bushings that I already have here.

frosty80

Oh yea thats a great video! Thank you

Pressing in the bushings would definitely solve the issue on the cheap arms of the blue aluminum sleeve rotating. That causes the bushing to be ungreaseable since the grease hole will no longer line up with the grease fitting on the arm. Too bad the blue aluminum on the cheap arms is turned down so it wont be press fit, maybe can be glued/loctite? The longer grease fitting also works but Im curious how it will affect the aluminum bushing since there is still some rotational play. The diameter of the grease fitting is smaller than the hole in the blue aluminum sleeve so it could theoretically rotate back and forth a little and smack the grease fitting before it stops the rotation.

Global west bushings are very impressive and many times better than whats on the cheap arms. I am not even sure if the white part of the bushing on the cheap ones is delrin, it reminded me of nylon plastic and was not as white/opaque as the global west ones in the video, just an observation but I am not sure either way. Another manufacturing issue with the cheap one was on the top control arm, the two holes that the cross shaft goes through are not perfectly in line with each other. One is slightly **** eyed, causes a little more resistance in the rotation but I dont think it will be enough to cause a big issue especially when greased, the bushings will definitely wear a bit but I think there should be no play once worn in, but we shall see. Definitely not perfect but I still think the cheap ones could work and be better than original arms. Again, Global West is definitely worth the money, you get what you pay for. I dont think GW is over charging, definitely quite pricey but they seem like they could last a serious long time and are worlds better than OE. Only negative for the cheap arms and the GW arms is that they weigh much more than stock arms, surprisingly GW arms and the cheap arms weigh about the same, the weight on the cheap ones was mentioned earlier in this thread and the GW weight are posted here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...trol-arms.html

OldCarBum

I went with Van Steel's upper and lower tubular A-arms with single adjustable semi coil overs.
Check out their website and give them a call.

74_stingray

Super nice parts for sure, quality parts and folks at VS.

PainfullySlow

While there is no denying the quality of VanSteel products, I simply cannot justify the pricetag at this point. I ended up going with an ebay set of upper and lowers for $279. The same ones others here have been using.

They look very well made, quality powder coating, etc. I am actually impressed with them. I have already lined up a machine shop to do the work on the upper crossshafts and I am going to be relocating the steering stop and sway bar mounts on the lowers later today. Also, since I already have them I will be replacing the ball joints with the Moog ones that I have sitting here.

I will update with progress as it happens.

bmans vette

Interested to see your install of these Michael. The powder coating question I asked you in the other thread originated from this thread. The sway bar mounts need cutting off and remounted in order to work. And so the grind down one side and grind and weld the other side. Then "re-powder-coat".
Your work is very detailed so looking forward to your pics.
Thanks
Dennis

bmans vette

I just reviewed this thread mainly because several others have PMed me with questions about this modification.
Let's all step back and remember how this thread got started to begin with.
It was prompted by the Op who found the info regarding the front A-arms in our C3s being the same as the GM Impala.
Along the way many have bought the Impala version arms from different sources.
Lately the thread has been focused only on POL's version of the arm and THEIR poor quality in manufacture.
I have yet to work on mine which came from Jeg's. Many of you know my history of medical challenges in 2018.

Its seems that Sunflower 1972 had very good success with his conversion. he got sidetracked by rear suspension issues.

So. I'd like to just say that the spirit that inspired the challenge this conversion is still there.
Let's not just let POL determine the fate of this conversion.

I am finally back to car wrenching strength and good weather is upon us.
I have 2 projects in differing levels of work.

I also have a complete set of Van Steel's front and rear suspension with coilovers and offset rear TA. And I have a complete set of the Jeg's a arms, QA1 coilovers and Van Steel rear TAs for my 2nd project.

I will re read the steps others have taken to get the Impala arms to work and post up as I work on both of these.

My new friend Mike (PainfullySlow) will certainly sprint past me as he heads into this mod. His attention to detail may uncover some good solutions.

Lets not lose the faith. POL is NOT the only manufacturer out there.

THANKS to all that have posted here.

Wishing you all a productive season.

Dennis (Bman)

PainfullySlow

Thanks for the intro, Dennis :-p

For the sake of putting some detailed info down in one spot, here goes. I will add that most of this is simply info that I have gathered from this thread or from research elsewhere on the interwebs so I cannot take credit for any of this.

I too decided to take the plunge and give this a go. I purchased a set of tubular arms from EBAY which looks exactly the same as every other one purchased on EBAY based on the pictures I have seen in this thread. I figured that at $279 for the full set, even if I threw them away it would be something I could live with. Thankfully though I will not be doing that. In fact I was very pleasantly surprised at just how beefy these things are. The powder coat is flawless, the welds are excellent, and the metal itself is of good quality. If anyone cares, I got them from this seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UPPER-L...72.m2749.l2649

I will add up front that these things are absolutely bone dry and will need to be greased.

So, to begin here is the list of modifications that are needed to use these arms on our C3s.


UPPERS
1) remove upper control arm cross shafts
a) remove zerk fittings
b) remove castle nuts from both ends of the cross shaft
c) tap out the metal washer, delrin washer, aluminum bushing cup, and delrin bushing using a rubber mallet. They should come right out easily.

2) Have the shafts machined as detailed below

3) reinstall cross shafts performing step 1 in reverse order

It should be mentioned that on the C3, the sides are opposite meaning that the left arm goes on the right, and vice versa. It should be readily apparent which one goes where when go to put it on the frame. One lines up with everything, the other does not =).


Thanks so much to DorianC3 who did all the heavy lifting here and made this diagram detailing what needed to be done to the upper cross shafts. I am not ashamed to say that I stole this and brought it right to my machine shop :-p





A few hours later...

Attachment 48348091



I will dig into the lowers tomorrow and let you know what I find.

jimbo1972

Great info! I ordered a set of Impala arms for my 66 C2.
If you don’t machine the upper shaft, what will your alignment specs be?
My buddy can machine them but wondering if I should try them before machining.
thanks!
-Jimbo

sunflower 1972

Here's my post from Aug. 18, 2018, #81 of this thread:

Well, we have a somewhat minor issue. With NO alignment shims between the control arm shafts and the frame we have -1* camber on the left front and -1.5* on the right front. That's not a bad thing if you're going to autocross your C3. Not so good for street. The only remedy that I can come up with is to have the frame mounting areas of the shafts machined a little narrower to get them to 0* or a little + camber. Caster is great. Left side is +5* and right side is +4.5*, so I'm happy about that. If anyone has a better solution to the camber issue, please chime in.

jim2527

Why not keep the OE arms and use MOOG's offset shafts? $100 and you'll get the same alignment capabilities.

sunflower 1972

Can't get increased caster in the +4* positive range with the MOOG offset shafts. The MOOG offset shafts are primarily for camber issues, as you have noted.

bmans vette

Not sure if you posted this answer yet.......did you get all your issues dealt with and get your car on the road for a real life test?
You certainly put the work in and shared it with us all.
Like to see the final result.

Thanks
Dennis

PainfullySlow

I managed to get the steering stop and sway bar mounts removed from the lower control arms and cleaned up those areas. Also I was able to powder coat the upper control arm cross shafts but that was about it. Hopefully better tomorrow.







Attachment 48348085





Attachment 48348086





Attachment 48348087





Attachment 48348088

sunflower 1972

Looks good.

sunflower 1972

Hey Dennis. I just spoke to the shop owner who's going to rebuild my TA's just last week. He's a little busy right now, but said he'd get my C3 into his shop in a week or so. I was hoping to have it done earlier before he got busy, but the early spring weather has been absolutely terrible this year. I did wake her up from winter hibernation about 4-5 weeks ago and took it out for short drives 3-4 times, weather permitting. It sure felt good to get it on the road. I'll be sure to update when everything is good. Thanks for asking. Neil

bmans vette

Thanks Neil.

Glad to see winter is gone up there. Spring always gets the juices flowing for working on projects.
My Dart SHP block was delivered today for my 421 SBC build.
Will watch for your update.
Dennis