When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well machining the cross shafts will change the weight also but as you said we don't know the quality of the material that the cross shafts are made of.
My machinists said that he is a little worried if we machine the cross shafts to the thickness of the center section on the new arms.
looking at them, I would only mill the center out enough to clear the frame mounts, that should leave a health amount past the edges, i'll try a spark test and file test tomorrow and see what we are working with, my guess is mild steel plate machined to fit OE parameters, crap shoot on hardness or aging
i'll mic one of the sets tomorrow and see what we are dealing with on bushing / shaft swapping
So had a family medical emergency come up didnt get anything on the car yesterday.
i did however check the crosshaft, and its deff NOT generic, its been at least tempered
took a flap disk to the part of the upper control arm im machining off to remove the zink and outer steel layer, and took a brand new Nicholson fine file to it, it would barely bite at the metal, you had to put a fair bit of pressure to it to make it bite.
So at the moment it looks like its tempered alloy steel
i havnt done a spark test yet, thats coming when i get home
Hey Phillip
Hope the family emergency has passed and all is good.
On the cross shaft issue....did you find your offset shaft and see if it would fit?
Might be the easy solution.
Take care
Dennis
I just removed the cross shafts from the new arms. Easy and no hassle! Now off to the machinists.
I measured the new cross shafts and they are full 9mm thicker at the mounting point compared to the originals. The center section is thinner though!
Since I looked it up for my information: 9 mm is ~0.3543307 inches (and, yes, I think the metric system is better, but I'm used to thinking in inches )
If the old cross-shafts are in good shape -- couldn't we just transfer the old shafts over?
Originally Posted by Primož Krajcar
I just removed the cross shafts from the new arms. Easy and no hassle! Now off to the machinists.
I measured the new cross shafts and they are full 9mm thicker at the mounting point compared to the originals. The center section is thinner though!
Since I looked it up for my information: 9 mm is ~0.3543307 inches (and, yes, I think the metric system is better, but I'm used to thinking in inches )
If the old cross-shafts are in good shape -- couldn't we just transfer the old shafts over?
I don't think so. Original shafts are shorter than the ones with the del-a-lum bushings.
Didn't measure it but according to the Global west video that is the case.
Just got back from the machine shop:
Just a test fit:
Once I get everything back together, I'll check the camber again. I did ask him if machining the shafts compromised any of the strength of them. In his opinion, no worries at all.
Just got back from the machine shop:
Just a test fit:
Once I get everything back together, I'll check the camber again. I did ask him if machining the shafts compromised any of the strength of them. In his opinion, no worries at all.
So he took the same amount off all the way across? Does it now sit flush against the frame tower? Are you expecting to not have to shim any or is that to get the caster?
Thanks for all the pics and info.
Bman
Stupid phone, just lost 2 pages of what i had typed...
Some observervations of things done this morning so far
#1 cross shafts will NOT interchange with OEM
#2 i hope the upper cross shaft length wont bite us in the butt when time for the radiator shroud
#3 lower control arm steering limiter must cut and rewelded to opposite side
#4 lower control arm must be pressed out and flipped 180*
#5 lower control arm cross shaft is tempered high carbon steel (for those wondering, guessing atsm 1065 steel)
So he took the same amount off all the way across? Does it now sit flush against the frame tower? Are you expecting to not have to shim any or is that to get the caster?
Thanks for all the pics and info.
Bman
Yes, I had it milled even with the center section. Yes, it's flush. I'm assuming I'll need to shim it. Prior to machining, with NO shims, I had 1* and 1.5* negative camber, not good for a street car. I now should have without shims 0* to a little positive camber, which I can now dial in the amount of negative camber I want.
Caster was 5* and 4.5* POSITIVE prior to machining so, no issues there.
Yes, I had it milled even with the center section. Yes, it's flush. I'm assuming I'll need to shim it. Prior to machining, with NO shims, I had 1* and 1.5* negative camber, not good for a street car. I now should have without shims 0* to a little positive camber, which I can now dial in the amount of negative camber I want.
Caster was 5* and 4.5* POSITIVE prior to machining so, no issues there.
Cross Shaft size: .750
bushing OD: 1.380
bushing length: 1.600
bushing sleeve on control arm length: 1.728
lower control arm cross shaft disassembled by hand with minor tools, no need for a press
bushings are more than just simple pieces, im actually surprised, two grease pass-throughs and a u-groove channel
Uhm...... WHAT?! How... i mean how do you ever think that would work....these shafts are almost twice the thickness, and your new bolts are .200 shorter?! On a side note, the new bolts for the other side actually are the right size and of good grade... this kit really surprises me in many ways... yeah the bolt is the wrong size, i fully expected that.... but name brand bolts and grade 8.... that is very surprising ... i fully expected no-name harbour freight bolts, prolly grade 4.8 which would be trash.... but high end Dubai FSC bolts? Very weird
08-23-2018, 12:36 AM
)
er, I'll check the camber again. I did ask him if machining the shafts compromised any of the strength of them. In his opinion, no worries at all.
