When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Daaaaaamn!! 649.99 for the same thing with stickers?!
wait... THATS JUST UPPERS?!
Yes just the uppers!
My friend just delivered my cross shafts. He machined them and they are ready to be mounted!
I was just checking the brakes on my vette today and saw that I have a lot of work ahead of me especially in the cleaning the frame department!
Got the thin nylock nuts in for the front and got the shocks modified for the vette, had a nice set of DA shocks for my old autocross s10 thats been parted out, they are about 2" to short so i had to modify them, they fit great now 😁
I am still viewing this from my chair in front of my computer as I recover from surgery.
BUT....does anyone else think that with the amount of metal removed that the cross shaft is compromised a little?
Especially the upper and lower sections by the stud hole. Where the elongated area is. If there is flex across that opening I can see a crack down the road.
I am wondering if a brace across the two holes on the back side that fits right in between the raised ridge where the round part of the shaft meets the flat area. Make it a snug fit and drill two holes after the caster is set so that they are exact.
Look at the pic above my post to see what I mean.
I think this whole project has been an awesome lesson (especially for me) so I am not questioning anyone's work.
Thanks for your feedback.
Hopefully I can get mine out of the box tomorrow and compare them to the Van Steel's that I have and compare the bulk.
I am still viewing this from my chair in front of my computer as I recover from surgery.
BUT....does anyone else think that with the amount of metal removed that the cross shaft is compromised a little?
Especially the upper and lower sections by the stud hole. Where the elongated area is. If there is flex across that opening I can see a crack down the road.
I am wondering if a brace across the two holes on the back side that fits right in between the raised ridge where the round part of the shaft meets the flat area. Make it a snug fit and drill two holes after the caster is set so that they are exact.
Look at the pic above my post to see what I mean.
I think this whole project has been an awesome lesson (especially for me) so I am not questioning anyone's work.
Thanks for your feedback.
Hopefully I can get mine out of the box tomorrow and compare them to the Van Steel's that I have and compare the bulk.
Bman
Thanks for the raised question. My friend who machined the shafts for me said that the material is not soft and not the hardest he has seen. So in between somewhere. Since the original shafts are the same thickness across the whole area as ours where they were machined I hope everything will hold together well. We discussed the issue with my friend and he thought that the shafts are this thick because Impala and other passenger cars weigh much more than Corvette. I must say I didn't look it up what the weight difference actually is.
I wish you speedy recovery and keep the posts coming!
The North American version of the 1960 Chevrolet Impala 4-door sedan has a curb weight of 3,750 pounds. The first model year for the Chevy Impala was 1958.
IMO,I don't see how any flex could occur, the entire length of the control arm shaft is laying against the frame mounting bracket. But, perhaps I'm misunderstanding your concern.
I am still viewing this from my chair in front of my computer as I recover from surgery.
BUT....does anyone else think that with the amount of metal removed that the cross shaft is compromised a little?
Bman
hope you get to feeling better soon! Not a small thing having that kind of surgery, and it sucks having to not do anything for this time =(
and you have to remember how these arms are loaded with stress, there isn't that much loading being imposed upon the cross-shaft, most of the load is vertical and some from bumps and cornering, almost all of that is directly upon the bolts that go to the frame horn, very little is done by the cross shaft, it's seeing some torsional load, but not that much, mostly vertical, cross load and shear.
The weakest link is the 12ga steel pieces welded to the frame, def NOT your cross shafts
You would rip them off the frame before the cross shaft would have any issue. 1064 High Carbon steel is a very good grade for this and the temper is also in the middle which is what you would want, not soft enough to bend like mild steel, but also not so hard that it becomes brittle like grade 8 bolts, very strong and then suddenly snaps when bent just alittle to far.
You need alittle give in suspension parts like your arms and axles but not so much that they distort easily for street driven cars.
Now drag racing is another story, Gun drilled and thru-hardened axles handle massive amounts of HP, but will fracture and break if you used them all day out on the streets because they can't flex with the shock loads imposed upon them from bumps and the rigors of street life, something is going to give.
IMO,I don't see how any flex could occur, the entire length of the control arm shaft is laying against the frame mounting bracket. But, perhaps I'm misunderstanding your concern.
I see that yours are snug but what I was thinking is when we put shims under one bolt to change caster, then the 2 contact points are around the bolt openings.
Just a thought. I tend to overthink things.....lol
Thanks
hope you get to feeling better soon! Not a small thing having that kind of surgery, and it sucks having to not do anything for this time =(
and you have to remember how these arms are loaded with stress, there isn't that much loading being imposed upon the cross-shaft, most of the load is vertical and some from bumps and cornering, almost all of that is directly upon the bolts that go to the frame horn, very little is done by the cross shaft, it's seeing some torsional load, but not that much, mostly vertical, cross load and shear.
The weakest link is the 12ga steel pieces welded to the frame, def NOT your cross shafts
You would rip them off the frame before the cross shaft would have any issue. 1064 High Carbon steel is a very good grade for this and the temper is also in the middle which is what you would want, not soft enough to bend like mild steel, but also not so hard that it becomes brittle like grade 8 bolts, very strong and then suddenly snaps when bent just alittle to far.
You need alittle give in suspension parts like your arms and axles but not so much that they distort easily for street driven cars.
Now drag racing is another story, Gun drilled and thru-hardened axles handle massive amounts of HP, but will fracture and break if you used them all day out on the streets because they can't flex with the shock loads imposed upon them from bumps and the rigors of street life, something is going to give.
All good points Phillip.
Thanks for the well wishes too!
Dennis (Bman)
i bought mine on ebay for what seems to be the same thing
279.99
And machine shop has been backed up, they finally called and said uppers were ready
Did you by chance match them up with the stock shafts?
Wondering since you had those out, why not just change the shaft instead of grinding and drilling? or do are the shafts differ that much .
Moog does make an offset shaft that looks similar to your picture
Did you by chance match them up with the stock shafts?
Wondering since you had those out, why not just change the shaft instead of grinding and drilling? or do are the shafts differ that much .
Moog does make an offset shaft that looks similar to your picture
Not being a smart ***, but by chance did you happen to read the entire thread from post 1 to post 175? Because your answer is in there.
08-30-2018, 02:25 PM
