naramlee

Long weekend, so im working nights on the vette for more tolerable temperatures

found something out about these A arms that let them save money and we need to know.

it took almost 30 pumps of grease to finally fill up the chamber and start seeing grease be forced past the stud, so DO NOT assume 3 pumps and good, they will have to be filled with dang near a 1/4 cup of grease

Primoz

sunflower 1972

Opinions please. Anyone think this will be a problem with this gap regarding the spreader bar function?

The bracket is half boxed so, I don't think it will. If anyone feels it could be an issue, what would your solution be?

Primoz

It might be a problem. But it is a case of wait and see.
You can fabricate a piece to fit in the gap to spread the forces across the whole cross shaft.
Or you can machine that side of the cross shaft also.

bmans vette

Interesting issue.
My first reaction was that it would brace the area around the studs. But then I noticed the point of greatest stress on the bracket for the spreader is right in the center where there is the gap between the bracket and the cross shaft. I imagine there will be some flex there. But then again with a stock cross shaft there is a similar valley between the two studs and the spreader bar is attached there also.
If you used this spreader bar with the sock setup and there is no bend in the bracket now from then, I would imagine it would work with the new set up.
Btw....did you check the bracket from the spreader bar to see if it is flat now?
That would be helpful.

Thanks

naramlee

like dennis pointed out, the stress is right in the center, easiest way would be to just machine it flat

I dont know how much our frames more, nor how much effort it takes to move it, considering some of the welds i have seen on these frames it can vary alot so what works for one might not be needed on the other

if it is flexing, then it'll bend the brackets slowly just like a screw, alittle bit of movement will exert tremendous pressure

at bare minimum i would build a solid 1" spacer about .010 larger than than the gap so it pre-loads when you tighten the bolts down

but the cleanest/most effective would be to mill it down imo

naramlee

im getting so close... im going slow because im doing an engine bay restoration at the same time as all of this suspension stuff as well...

but the driver side is nearly done, cleaning the spindle right now then it'll go on and be done for the driver side, so excited cuz I can actually see the positive caster on the top control arm!

naramlee

interesting read this...

https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hm...s/3696401.html

im itching for some aluminum spindles to cut down on weight


oh and a side note: ive been using this SEM brand TRIM flat black paint for the engine bay... and WOW... this stuff dries FAST... like hard enough to handle aggressively within 2-3 mins... and hard enough for me to put full boot/ body weight on WITHOUT scuff or tearing after just 10 mins... really blown away with it, it's been perfect for this restoration

Primoz

Great comparison! Thanks! Now take it easy and don't stress yourself too much. Enjoy!

bmans vette

Thanks!
Too anxious to get back to work.
December will be here before I know it....haha
*

naramlee

Glad to see your doing better!!

i was wondering how they compaired to the van steels

naramlee

have you weighed them yet?

OldCarBum

I purchased a set of Van Steel's upper control arms for my 73 and I'm saving my pennies for a set of their lower control arms.
If you decide to sell your Van Steel lower control arms, and they are the same part number for my 73 send me a PM with a price.
I'll need them to fit with the QA-1 coil overs.
Thanks, Greg

naramlee

lol yeah, like I said, I wouldn't hesitate to put these under my diesel truck they are so overbuilt

interestingly... those aluminium cross shafts on the van steels look almost the same as the steel ones... hehehehe

naramlee

alittle update for arm compatibility, they ARE compatible with Wilwood's 12.19 kit, they are close, but more than 3/16 at all points

Van Steel

How so?

Primoz

Definately a case for stress test and metallurgist.
I hope they will work good with my Van Steel EZ ride kit!

naramlee

oh crap, here we go.... -goes to get popcorn-

In the defense of Dennis

Van Steel's arms are great, we aren't bashing their construction, which to me is more than adequate for daily road use, the problem with them is the price... they are nearly 1600.00 for the front setup, and once again, nothing against your product, but for 1600.00 im going to save up and get the Speed Direct Arms, im already 2/3 of the way for the price, i'll save that additional amount and go with the all aluminium kit for weight savings. The issue isn't that your arms are mid range, they are low-high range arms, you go from 249.99 for all 4 of these Chinese arms, straight to 1800.00 then to 2600.00, mid range should be like what most other companies charge for their sets, 1000-1200. Once again, I insinuate nothing against VS, this is merely an observation of other manufacturers, their kits and pricing.

I hold a certified 5G welder position and fabricator for nearly 10 years, I've removed the powdercoating on the welds and i'll back the strength of these Chinese arms, they aren't the best/cleanest, BUT they are HUGE, compared to VS, not that is a good thing, it's really not, but in the case of China, it's better to err on the side of bigger, i'll trust our engineers before I trust the guys building these things, and it's only through my own research I trust these arms at all.

This thread isn't built for bashing anyone's product, it was started by Primo as a question / interesting idea. This is the culmination of our research, and mainly the choice of arms is due to prices that, in our opinion, are too much and there had to be a better option. Hence the return to old school style hot rodding, take whats available and make it fit for a reduced price.

Van Steel

No offense but he made the comment, he should explain.

You're a welder, you should also know your labor isn't cheap. If it was, you probably wouldn't be a certified welder. If it's made in America, you're going to pay more. What are the other benefits besides being cheap and using a lesser quality tubing?

naramlee

none taken at all

the main benefit is cost, they are 6 times cheaper, i was willing to throw the money away if they wernt worth using, but as it stands, i now have 1500.00 to put towards rear end components, i wouldnt have even considered aftermarket and would have just refurbished my oem arms and had to live with less caster and try to stabilize the higher speeds in other parts of the suspension.

sure i get the idea of cost/labor, BUT... let me ask this, why are the uppers so expensive? Most other companies offer the uppers at probably close to cost and the bulk of the profit margin comes from the lowers, ive used Hotchkis, QA1, Maximium Motorsports and Addco and speedway, and this is the norm pricing with them.

Im just curious what makes the VS arms so much better to warrant almost the same price as the lowers when there is half the welding and looks like close to half the material. Im not trying flame anyone or anyone's product, but clarify our position.

and just because i get paid a fair wage doesnt mean i just upgrade my spending habits, i just cant see spending 1800-2400 on control arms unless i was just flat worried about every last ounce of weight to shed, for the same money i can put that into an aluminum rear end and have far greater returns per capita, which is my plan. Maybe in the future i will upgrade the front to aluminum arms, but honestly due to price ratios to best weight, it will be going with Speed Directs aluminium arms, once again, no offence ment.