tubular a-arms
#181
Burning Brakes
Long weekend, so im working nights on the vette for more tolerable temperatures
found something out about these A arms that let them save money and we need to know.
it took almost 30 pumps of grease to finally fill up the chamber and start seeing grease be forced past the stud, so DO NOT assume 3 pumps and good, they will have to be filled with dang near a 1/4 cup of grease
found something out about these A arms that let them save money and we need to know.
it took almost 30 pumps of grease to finally fill up the chamber and start seeing grease be forced past the stud, so DO NOT assume 3 pumps and good, they will have to be filled with dang near a 1/4 cup of grease
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bmans vette (09-02-2018)
#182
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2012
Location: Slovenia, EU
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2017 C3 of Year Finalist
Please.....lets not rain on this really good thread.
One thing working on these old beauties is the virtue of patience.
No reason we cannot have that with one another also.
On a good note....my Joe's Racing caster camber gauge showed up today.
Each new post inspires me more to get back to work as soon as I can.
Carry on my friends......and keep the info (AND PICTURES) coming.......
One thing working on these old beauties is the virtue of patience.
No reason we cannot have that with one another also.
On a good note....my Joe's Racing caster camber gauge showed up today.
Each new post inspires me more to get back to work as soon as I can.
Carry on my friends......and keep the info (AND PICTURES) coming.......
#183
Drifting
Opinions please. Anyone think this will be a problem with this gap regarding the spreader bar function?
The bracket is half boxed so, I don't think it will. If anyone feels it could be an issue, what would your solution be?
The bracket is half boxed so, I don't think it will. If anyone feels it could be an issue, what would your solution be?
#184
Burning Brakes
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Member Since: Jul 2012
Location: Slovenia, EU
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2017 C3 of Year Finalist
You can fabricate a piece to fit in the gap to spread the forces across the whole cross shaft.
Or you can machine that side of the cross shaft also.
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#185
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Athens GA
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
My first reaction was that it would brace the area around the studs. But then I noticed the point of greatest stress on the bracket for the spreader is right in the center where there is the gap between the bracket and the cross shaft. I imagine there will be some flex there. But then again with a stock cross shaft there is a similar valley between the two studs and the spreader bar is attached there also.
If you used this spreader bar with the sock setup and there is no bend in the bracket now from then, I would imagine it would work with the new set up.
Btw....did you check the bracket from the spreader bar to see if it is flat now?
That would be helpful.
Thanks
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sunflower 1972 (09-02-2018)
#186
Burning Brakes
I dont know how much our frames more, nor how much effort it takes to move it, considering some of the welds i have seen on these frames it can vary alot so what works for one might not be needed on the other
if it is flexing, then it'll bend the brackets slowly just like a screw, alittle bit of movement will exert tremendous pressure
at bare minimum i would build a solid 1" spacer about .010 larger than than the gap so it pre-loads when you tighten the bolts down
but the cleanest/most effective would be to mill it down imo
Last edited by naramlee; 09-02-2018 at 07:45 PM.
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#187
Burning Brakes
im getting so close... im going slow because im doing an engine bay restoration at the same time as all of this suspension stuff as well...
but the driver side is nearly done, cleaning the spindle right now then it'll go on and be done for the driver side, so excited cuz I can actually see the positive caster on the top control arm!
but the driver side is nearly done, cleaning the spindle right now then it'll go on and be done for the driver side, so excited cuz I can actually see the positive caster on the top control arm!
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bmans vette (09-03-2018)
#188
Burning Brakes
interesting read this...
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hm...s/3696401.html
im itching for some aluminum spindles to cut down on weight
oh and a side note: ive been using this SEM brand TRIM flat black paint for the engine bay... and WOW... this stuff dries FAST... like hard enough to handle aggressively within 2-3 mins... and hard enough for me to put full boot/ body weight on WITHOUT scuff or tearing after just 10 mins... really blown away with it, it's been perfect for this restoration
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hm...s/3696401.html
im itching for some aluminum spindles to cut down on weight
oh and a side note: ive been using this SEM brand TRIM flat black paint for the engine bay... and WOW... this stuff dries FAST... like hard enough to handle aggressively within 2-3 mins... and hard enough for me to put full boot/ body weight on WITHOUT scuff or tearing after just 10 mins... really blown away with it, it's been perfect for this restoration
Last edited by naramlee; 09-04-2018 at 12:04 AM.
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bmans vette (09-04-2018),
caskiguy (09-04-2018)
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bmans vette (09-13-2018)
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bmans vette (09-13-2018)
#192
Burning Brakes
#193
Race Director
If you decide to sell your Van Steel lower control arms, and they are the same part number for my 73 send me a PM with a price.
I'll need them to fit with the QA-1 coil overs.
Thanks, Greg
Last edited by OldCarBum; 09-13-2018 at 07:52 PM.
#194
Burning Brakes
interestingly... those aluminium cross shafts on the van steels look almost the same as the steel ones... hehehehe
#195
Burning Brakes
alittle update for arm compatibility, they ARE compatible with Wilwood's 12.19 kit, they are close, but more than 3/16 at all points
Last edited by naramlee; 09-16-2018 at 10:26 PM.
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bmans vette (09-18-2018),
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#198
Burning Brakes
oh crap, here we go.... -goes to get popcorn-
In the defense of Dennis
Van Steel's arms are great, we aren't bashing their construction, which to me is more than adequate for daily road use, the problem with them is the price... they are nearly 1600.00 for the front setup, and once again, nothing against your product, but for 1600.00 im going to save up and get the Speed Direct Arms, im already 2/3 of the way for the price, i'll save that additional amount and go with the all aluminium kit for weight savings. The issue isn't that your arms are mid range, they are low-high range arms, you go from 249.99 for all 4 of these Chinese arms, straight to 1800.00 then to 2600.00, mid range should be like what most other companies charge for their sets, 1000-1200. Once again, I insinuate nothing against VS, this is merely an observation of other manufacturers, their kits and pricing.
I hold a certified 5G welder position and fabricator for nearly 10 years, I've removed the powdercoating on the welds and i'll back the strength of these Chinese arms, they aren't the best/cleanest, BUT they are HUGE, compared to VS, not that is a good thing, it's really not, but in the case of China, it's better to err on the side of bigger, i'll trust our engineers before I trust the guys building these things, and it's only through my own research I trust these arms at all.
This thread isn't built for bashing anyone's product, it was started by Primo as a question / interesting idea. This is the culmination of our research, and mainly the choice of arms is due to prices that, in our opinion, are too much and there had to be a better option. Hence the return to old school style hot rodding, take whats available and make it fit for a reduced price.
In the defense of Dennis
Van Steel's arms are great, we aren't bashing their construction, which to me is more than adequate for daily road use, the problem with them is the price... they are nearly 1600.00 for the front setup, and once again, nothing against your product, but for 1600.00 im going to save up and get the Speed Direct Arms, im already 2/3 of the way for the price, i'll save that additional amount and go with the all aluminium kit for weight savings. The issue isn't that your arms are mid range, they are low-high range arms, you go from 249.99 for all 4 of these Chinese arms, straight to 1800.00 then to 2600.00, mid range should be like what most other companies charge for their sets, 1000-1200. Once again, I insinuate nothing against VS, this is merely an observation of other manufacturers, their kits and pricing.
I hold a certified 5G welder position and fabricator for nearly 10 years, I've removed the powdercoating on the welds and i'll back the strength of these Chinese arms, they aren't the best/cleanest, BUT they are HUGE, compared to VS, not that is a good thing, it's really not, but in the case of China, it's better to err on the side of bigger, i'll trust our engineers before I trust the guys building these things, and it's only through my own research I trust these arms at all.
This thread isn't built for bashing anyone's product, it was started by Primo as a question / interesting idea. This is the culmination of our research, and mainly the choice of arms is due to prices that, in our opinion, are too much and there had to be a better option. Hence the return to old school style hot rodding, take whats available and make it fit for a reduced price.
Last edited by naramlee; 09-18-2018 at 11:49 PM.
#199
Premium Supporting Vendor
No offense but he made the comment, he should explain.
You're a welder, you should also know your labor isn't cheap. If it was, you probably wouldn't be a certified welder. If it's made in America, you're going to pay more. What are the other benefits besides being cheap and using a lesser quality tubing?
You're a welder, you should also know your labor isn't cheap. If it was, you probably wouldn't be a certified welder. If it's made in America, you're going to pay more. What are the other benefits besides being cheap and using a lesser quality tubing?
#200
Burning Brakes
No offense but he made the comment, he should explain.
You're a welder, you should also know your labor isn't cheap. If it was, you probably wouldn't be a certified welder. If it's made in America, you're going to pay more. What are the other benefits besides being cheap and using a lesser quality tubing?
You're a welder, you should also know your labor isn't cheap. If it was, you probably wouldn't be a certified welder. If it's made in America, you're going to pay more. What are the other benefits besides being cheap and using a lesser quality tubing?
the main benefit is cost, they are 6 times cheaper, i was willing to throw the money away if they wernt worth using, but as it stands, i now have 1500.00 to put towards rear end components, i wouldnt have even considered aftermarket and would have just refurbished my oem arms and had to live with less caster and try to stabilize the higher speeds in other parts of the suspension.
sure i get the idea of cost/labor, BUT... let me ask this, why are the uppers so expensive? Most other companies offer the uppers at probably close to cost and the bulk of the profit margin comes from the lowers, ive used Hotchkis, QA1, Maximium Motorsports and Addco and speedway, and this is the norm pricing with them.
Im just curious what makes the VS arms so much better to warrant almost the same price as the lowers when there is half the welding and looks like close to half the material. Im not trying flame anyone or anyone's product, but clarify our position.
and just because i get paid a fair wage doesnt mean i just upgrade my spending habits, i just cant see spending 1800-2400 on control arms unless i was just flat worried about every last ounce of weight to shed, for the same money i can put that into an aluminum rear end and have far greater returns per capita, which is my plan. Maybe in the future i will upgrade the front to aluminum arms, but honestly due to price ratios to best weight, it will be going with Speed Directs aluminium arms, once again, no offence ment.
Last edited by naramlee; 09-19-2018 at 10:40 AM.