15" vs. 17" wheels, that big a difference?
#341
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Finally got wheels, tires, shocks and springs done. AR Ansen Sprint 17x8 with Nitto 255/50-17 NT555 G2, Bilstein shocks, 550# front springs, 355# composite rear. I think it kind of keeps the stock look.
I got a butcher alignment job (thread on it) so I really can't tell for sure about the handling yet, seems to have some pronounced oversteer, but the ride is definitely improved. Dropped the rear tire pressure down from 32 to 30 psi and that actually seemed to help a little.
Rear sits 1/2" higher than the front so I'm still working out the bugs but I think this is going to be a big improvement.
This pic was taken today at the Cruise In at the Dixie Freeze in South Pittsburg, TN at the Cornbread Festival.........no really
Car next to us is a 58 Impala and it was incredible
I got a butcher alignment job (thread on it) so I really can't tell for sure about the handling yet, seems to have some pronounced oversteer, but the ride is definitely improved. Dropped the rear tire pressure down from 32 to 30 psi and that actually seemed to help a little.
Rear sits 1/2" higher than the front so I'm still working out the bugs but I think this is going to be a big improvement.
This pic was taken today at the Cruise In at the Dixie Freeze in South Pittsburg, TN at the Cornbread Festival.........no really
Car next to us is a 58 Impala and it was incredible
The following 3 users liked this post by Capt. Shark:
#342
Pro
Finally got wheels, tires, shocks and springs done. AR Ansen Sprint 17x8 with Nitto 255/50-17 NT555 G2, Bilstein shocks, 550# front springs, 355# composite rear. I think it kind of keeps the stock look.
I got a butcher alignment job (thread on it) so I really can't tell for sure about the handling yet, seems to have some pronounced oversteer, but the ride is definitely improved. Dropped the rear tire pressure down from 32 to 30 psi and that actually seemed to help a little.
Rear sits 1/2" higher than the front so I'm still working out the bugs but I think this is going to be a big improvement.
This pic was taken today at the Cruise In at the Dixie Freeze in South Pittsburg, TN at the Cornbread Festival.........no really
Car next to us is a 58 Impala and it was incredible
I got a butcher alignment job (thread on it) so I really can't tell for sure about the handling yet, seems to have some pronounced oversteer, but the ride is definitely improved. Dropped the rear tire pressure down from 32 to 30 psi and that actually seemed to help a little.
Rear sits 1/2" higher than the front so I'm still working out the bugs but I think this is going to be a big improvement.
This pic was taken today at the Cruise In at the Dixie Freeze in South Pittsburg, TN at the Cornbread Festival.........no really
Car next to us is a 58 Impala and it was incredible
#343
Finally got wheels, tires, shocks and springs done. AR Ansen Sprint 17x8 with Nitto 255/50-17 NT555 G2, Bilstein shocks, 550# front springs, 355# composite rear. I think it kind of keeps the stock look.
I got a butcher alignment job (thread on it) so I really can't tell for sure about the handling yet, seems to have some pronounced oversteer, but the ride is definitely improved. Dropped the rear tire pressure down from 32 to 30 psi and that actually seemed to help a little.
Rear sits 1/2" higher than the front so I'm still working out the bugs but I think this is going to be a big improvement.
This pic was taken today at the Cruise In at the Dixie Freeze in South Pittsburg, TN at the Cornbread Festival.........no really
Car next to us is a 58 Impala and it was incredible
I got a butcher alignment job (thread on it) so I really can't tell for sure about the handling yet, seems to have some pronounced oversteer, but the ride is definitely improved. Dropped the rear tire pressure down from 32 to 30 psi and that actually seemed to help a little.
Rear sits 1/2" higher than the front so I'm still working out the bugs but I think this is going to be a big improvement.
This pic was taken today at the Cruise In at the Dixie Freeze in South Pittsburg, TN at the Cornbread Festival.........no really
Car next to us is a 58 Impala and it was incredible
Best thing about this picture for me?......your car covers up most of what is behind it.
An infamous line from Stephen King's "Christine" sums up my feelings toward the '58 Chevy. No matter how well done or restored.
#344
Melting Slicks
I'm currently running 15s 255 MT Sportsman S/Ts on my '80. My other car is an '02 BMW Z3M Coupe wearing Michelin Pilot Super Sport 17s in 235 front, 245 rear. The difference in grip is not even close between the two. The BMW has almost as much grip in the wet as the C3 does in the dry, which is great not just for handling but also emergency situations like panic stopping or swerving to avoid a collision. Hence why I plan on going 17s or 18s in the future. I love the fat tire look, but I like performance more, and performance tire choices are crap for 15s unless you want to spend big $$$.
The following 3 users liked this post by C3DeedlyDee:
#345
Le Mans Master
I'm currently running 15s 255 MT Sportsman S/Ts on my '80. My other car is an '02 BMW Z3M Coupe wearing Michelin Pilot Super Sport 17s in 235 front, 245 rear. The difference in grip is not even close between the two. The BMW has almost as much grip in the wet as the C3 does in the dry, which is great not just for handling but also emergency situations like panic stopping or swerving to avoid a collision. Hence why I plan on going 17s or 18s in the future. I love the fat tire look, but I like performance more, and performance tire choices are crap for 15s unless you want to spend big $$$.
#346
Nitto
Even in a 17" tire that is the same diameter (27") as my 15s there are not many choices. 255/50R17 is the same and 245/50R17 is 26.6". Very few choices and I really don't want to go to 18".
One of the choices is Nitto. Anybody have anything good or bad to say about them?
I'm thinking the NT 555 G2.
http://www.nittotire.com/find-a-tire...ameter=17#size
One of the choices is Nitto. Anybody have anything good or bad to say about them?
I'm thinking the NT 555 G2.
http://www.nittotire.com/find-a-tire...ameter=17#size
The following 2 users liked this post by Tripower delight:
jb78L-82 (05-04-2018),
lionelhutz (05-04-2018)
#348
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Your car looks good ....... but the '58? We may have to agree to disagree.
Best thing about this picture for me?......your car covers up most of what is behind it.
An infamous line from Stephen King's "Christine" sums up my feelings toward the '58 Chevy. No matter how well done or restored.
Best thing about this picture for me?......your car covers up most of what is behind it.
An infamous line from Stephen King's "Christine" sums up my feelings toward the '58 Chevy. No matter how well done or restored.
Thanks for the compliment.....as for the 58 the Impala and the Corvette both were pretty gaudy what with all the chrome and louvers and what not. The Impala was very nicely done, carbed small block with a 5 speed and obviously a meticulous restoration. It wouldn't be on my top 10 list of cars to own (if I could) but you have to appreciate the workmanship that went into it, which I was mostly commenting on.
#349
Instructor
#350
Le Mans Master
Just ordered the Nitto NT 355 G2 (255/50/17). I'm looking fwd to feeling the difference btn these and the Fuzion ZRi's that came with the TT's that I bought off a former forum member 3 yrs ago. I have 550 frt springs, 360 glass rear, Bilsteins, SharkBar and a spreader bar. The Fuzions were ok tires still have @70% tread left but are too old to be safe.
#351
#352
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,939
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C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
#353
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Update
I think I've finally got it straightened out. New pump, cylinder and control valve and all new hoses. And of course, Gary's rebuilt box. Replaced idler arm and got a new alignment using VBandP's recommended specs. Also found the rear sway bar bushings were dry rotted so replaced them. It is very tight and certainly goes where you point it. With the front and rear springs, Bilsteins and 17" wheels and tires it's a big improvement.
I like it
I like it
The following users liked this post:
Metalhead140 (05-29-2018)
#354
My '71 is just a Rag top cruiser, including some spirited street driving, of course
Am I able to upgrade to a larger brake caliper, while still using the stock 15" Rally Wheels, with BFG 255/60's all around?
If not, what are my options for brake upgrades when keeping the stock 15" Rally wheels?
Thanks
Am I able to upgrade to a larger brake caliper, while still using the stock 15" Rally Wheels, with BFG 255/60's all around?
If not, what are my options for brake upgrades when keeping the stock 15" Rally wheels?
Thanks
#355
Le Mans Master
My '71 is just a Rag top cruiser, including some spirited street driving, of course
Am I able to upgrade to a larger brake caliper, while still using the stock 15" Rally Wheels, with BFG 255/60's all around?
If not, what are my options for brake upgrades when keeping the stock 15" Rally wheels?
Thanks
Am I able to upgrade to a larger brake caliper, while still using the stock 15" Rally Wheels, with BFG 255/60's all around?
If not, what are my options for brake upgrades when keeping the stock 15" Rally wheels?
Thanks
The only upgrade option using 15 inch rims is upgrading the current brake component parts to either a willwood aluminum 4 piston caliper (same 4 piston basic design as OEM cast iron 4 piston calipers-no increase in brake performance), Stainless Steel braided brake hoses (Firmer more consistent linear brake pedal feel), high performance Brake pads (Performance Friction, Hawk etc) and Drilled and/or slotted 12 inch Stock size rotors (Provides better initial brake pad bite-not for racing but street).
I believe you can use the willwood 6 piston aluminum front caliper with stock 15 inch rims but there is no brake advantage with 12 inch rotors and the same size OEM brake pad since the effective brake torque using the 6 caliper versus the 4 caliper is the same (same overall piston surface area).
The only way to increase brake torque and the time of deceleration to tire lockup and or just short of lockup, repeatedly, is with a bigger size, mulit piston fixed racing style caliper with a bigger brake pad than stock ones, clamping a larger 13 or 14 inch rotor which requires a 17/18 inch rim IF you can find the other brake components. Willwood does offer a C3 13/14 inch rotor to be used with their 4 or 6 piston aluminum caliper which will increase brake torque and overall brake performance BUT you must use a 17/18 inch rim
FWIW-If a vendor offered an adapter bracket to use the stock Cast iron 4 piston calipers with a larger 13/14 inch rotor (not sure if anyone makes a stock type larger rotor from another car from that era), all of us could upgrade to a larger rotor using the OEM calipers with a fabulous increase in brake performance for little actual money......
Last edited by jb78L-82; 08-08-2020 at 06:53 AM.
#356
The only upgrade option using 15 inch rims is upgrading the current brake component parts to either a willwood aluminum 4 piston caliper (same 4 piston basic design as OEM cast iron 4 piston calipers-no increase in brake performance), Stainless Steel braided brake hoses (Firmer more consistent linear brake pedal feel), high performance Brake pads (Performance Friction, Hawk etc) and Drilled and/or slotted 12 inch Stock size rotors (Provides better initial brake pad bite-not for racing but street).
I believe you can use the willwood 6 piston aluminum front caliper with stock 15 inch rims but there is no brake advantage with 12 inch rotors and the same size OEM brake pad since the effective brake torque using the 6 caliper versus the 4 caliper is the same (same overall piston surface area).
The only way to increase brake torque and the time of deceleration to tire lockup and or just short of lockup, repeatedly, is with a bigger size, mulit piston fixed racing style caliper with a bigger brake pad than stock ones, clamping a larger 13 or 14 inch rotor which requires a 17/18 inch rim IF you can find the other brake components. Willwood does offer a C3 13/14 inch rotor to be used with their 4 or 6 piston aluminum caliper which will increase brake torque and overall brake performance BUT you must use a 17/18 inch rim
FWIW-If a vendor offered an adapter bracket to use the stock Cast iron 4 piston calipers with a larger 13/14 inch rotor (not sure if anyone makes a stock type larger rotor from another car from that era), all of us could upgrade to a larger rotor using the OEM calipers with a fabulous increase in brake performance for little actual money......
I believe you can use the willwood 6 piston aluminum front caliper with stock 15 inch rims but there is no brake advantage with 12 inch rotors and the same size OEM brake pad since the effective brake torque using the 6 caliper versus the 4 caliper is the same (same overall piston surface area).
The only way to increase brake torque and the time of deceleration to tire lockup and or just short of lockup, repeatedly, is with a bigger size, mulit piston fixed racing style caliper with a bigger brake pad than stock ones, clamping a larger 13 or 14 inch rotor which requires a 17/18 inch rim IF you can find the other brake components. Willwood does offer a C3 13/14 inch rotor to be used with their 4 or 6 piston aluminum caliper which will increase brake torque and overall brake performance BUT you must use a 17/18 inch rim
FWIW-If a vendor offered an adapter bracket to use the stock Cast iron 4 piston calipers with a larger 13/14 inch rotor (not sure if anyone makes a stock type larger rotor from another car from that era), all of us could upgrade to a larger rotor using the OEM calipers with a fabulous increase in brake performance for little actual money......
Thanks
#357
Le Mans Master
Easily....4 piston fixed calipers each caliper, BOTH FRONT AND REAR, 12 inch Vented Rotors, BOTH FRONT AND REAR, is terrific even by today's standards.
Add SS braided brake lines and Performance Brake pads and you are in business....
#358
Race Director
All great advise.
#359
From another post on suspension and Wheels that I posted a while back:
I have a 78 L-82 4 speed car with the gymkhana sport suspension (67,000 miles) that I have owned for 34 years and I have tinkered with the suspension one part at a time over all those years to achieve the perfect balance of superb handling, steering response and a firm but not harsh ride. Not knowing if you have a base suspension (most likely since most did not have the sport suspension from the factory) or the sport suspension, below is what you need for truly sportscar handling with a great ride for your 78:
Front:
550 lbs front coil springs/1 inch lower than stock-$100
1 1/8 inch solid front sway bar (OEM Bar size)-$200
poly upper and lower control arm bushings-$50
Bilstein HD shocks-$150
Front Spreader Bar-$100
Custom blueprinted/rebuilt OEM steering box- GTR 1999-Gary Ramadei-$300
This modification will make your OEM box about as good as it gets with the OEM steering and very close to a borgeson.....not quite but close
Rear:
360 monospring-$300
Bilstein Sport shocks-$150
OEM Style Rear Sway bar (not the aftermarket type bars. I highly discourage NON OEM/GM style rear sway bars)-7/16 or 9/16 or 3/4 inch (I have this one replacing the stock 7/16 inch bar)-$200
Competition adjustable strut rods with heim joint ends-$200
Total Cost $1750
This suspension will get you a FAR SUPERIOR suspension than what came on the car when it was new, X3 if the car had a base suspension from the factory. You will need to add 17/18 inch rims and tires (ZR rated only W/Y sub rating) later to maximize the superior suspension setup. I have ultra high performance summer only tires Front-255/45/17 ZR and rears 255/50/17 ZR's.
This is ^^^the basic C3 suspension design pretty much unmodified from its original design but maximized for handling, steering, response and grip....I will say this again, the ride is far superior to the OEM gymkhana suspension that came on the car with 255/60/15 crap tires and is very compliant. A neighbor who has lexus LsS460/430 sedans recently rode in my 78 and he commented more than once about the power is great BUT he could not believe how well and tight the ride was....kept saying it.
BTW-the SLP rims and tires above weigh LESS than the OEM aluminum 15 inch rims and 255/60/15 tires..I weighted them both.......................just saying
I said this way back in the beginning of this thread...This ^^^^ will get you a fantastic ride, superb handling, all with basically a stock designed suspension with 17 inch ultra high performance summer only tires.............
I will also add that Karol on this forum with his base stock suspension,L-82 4 speed, and 15 inch aluminum OEM rims with 255/60/15 Radial T/A's, just this past weekend rode in my 78 ^^^^ and then in a back to back comparison we rode in his 78 unmodified base suspension L-82 and he could not believe how much BETTER my car rode than his car (not to mention handle). He loved the rebuilt/upgraded 355 L-82 but raved about the ride....This example is an immediate comparison of real world results, no theory here, with a direct comparison of the 2 suspension types...Not sure what else to say here about this subject.
I have a 78 L-82 4 speed car with the gymkhana sport suspension (67,000 miles) that I have owned for 34 years and I have tinkered with the suspension one part at a time over all those years to achieve the perfect balance of superb handling, steering response and a firm but not harsh ride. Not knowing if you have a base suspension (most likely since most did not have the sport suspension from the factory) or the sport suspension, below is what you need for truly sportscar handling with a great ride for your 78:
Front:
550 lbs front coil springs/1 inch lower than stock-$100
1 1/8 inch solid front sway bar (OEM Bar size)-$200
poly upper and lower control arm bushings-$50
Bilstein HD shocks-$150
Front Spreader Bar-$100
Custom blueprinted/rebuilt OEM steering box- GTR 1999-Gary Ramadei-$300
This modification will make your OEM box about as good as it gets with the OEM steering and very close to a borgeson.....not quite but close
Rear:
360 monospring-$300
Bilstein Sport shocks-$150
OEM Style Rear Sway bar (not the aftermarket type bars. I highly discourage NON OEM/GM style rear sway bars)-7/16 or 9/16 or 3/4 inch (I have this one replacing the stock 7/16 inch bar)-$200
Competition adjustable strut rods with heim joint ends-$200
Total Cost $1750
This suspension will get you a FAR SUPERIOR suspension than what came on the car when it was new, X3 if the car had a base suspension from the factory. You will need to add 17/18 inch rims and tires (ZR rated only W/Y sub rating) later to maximize the superior suspension setup. I have ultra high performance summer only tires Front-255/45/17 ZR and rears 255/50/17 ZR's.
This is ^^^the basic C3 suspension design pretty much unmodified from its original design but maximized for handling, steering, response and grip....I will say this again, the ride is far superior to the OEM gymkhana suspension that came on the car with 255/60/15 crap tires and is very compliant. A neighbor who has lexus LsS460/430 sedans recently rode in my 78 and he commented more than once about the power is great BUT he could not believe how well and tight the ride was....kept saying it.
BTW-the SLP rims and tires above weigh LESS than the OEM aluminum 15 inch rims and 255/60/15 tires..I weighted them both.......................just saying
I said this way back in the beginning of this thread...This ^^^^ will get you a fantastic ride, superb handling, all with basically a stock designed suspension with 17 inch ultra high performance summer only tires.............
I will also add that Karol on this forum with his base stock suspension,L-82 4 speed, and 15 inch aluminum OEM rims with 255/60/15 Radial T/A's, just this past weekend rode in my 78 ^^^^ and then in a back to back comparison we rode in his 78 unmodified base suspension L-82 and he could not believe how much BETTER my car rode than his car (not to mention handle). He loved the rebuilt/upgraded 355 L-82 but raved about the ride....This example is an immediate comparison of real world results, no theory here, with a direct comparison of the 2 suspension types...Not sure what else to say here about this subject.
I know this is an old post so hoping you still check it I have a couple of questions- Why do you recommend the stock size sway bar and not the larger diameter aftermarket? Also, you state the front had the Bilstein HD shocks but the rear has the sport shocks. Why did you not use the same all the way around? I'd also like to hear your opinion on the offset trailing arms that provide the opportunity for much wider tires without flares. Appreciate it!!!
#360
Le Mans Master
I know this is an old post so hoping you still check it I have a couple of questions- Why do you recommend the stock size sway bar and not the larger diameter aftermarket? Also, you state the front had the Bilstein HD shocks but the rear has the sport shocks. Why did you not use the same all the way around? I'd also like to hear your opinion on the offset trailing arms that provide the opportunity for much wider tires without flares. Appreciate it!!!
Oh yes..always perusing the forum for advice and to give some as well!
For sway bars, I am a big fan of bigger bars as long as they are matched for your particular car.
I recommend for the rear bar, the GM style OEM type of endlink sway bar that is different than the aftermarket sway bars that use the same horizontal endlink design as the front bar which is not operationally well suited for the C3's independent rear suspension. GM purposely used a unique vertical holed rear sway bar on the C3's which is what I am referring to in my comments, not the sway bar size, but the GM OEM style endlink on that sway bar. I have only seen 7/16, 9/16, and 3/4 inch rear sway bars with the GM style endlink.
I originally had Bilstein HD's all the way around on my 78 C3 but with the 360 composite spring in the rear, I and many others noticed the rear was too bouncy just driving down the road. I switched to the sports, in the rear only, which are 30% stiffer than the Bilstein HD's, and have that combo not for over 15 years which completely solved the issue.
I have no experience with offset trailing arms so cannot comment.
Hope that helps!
Last edited by jb78L-82; 08-17-2020 at 07:20 AM.