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383 Roller Cam Questions

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Old 11-03-2017, 05:36 PM
  #21  
Crimson Thunder
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You can buy the lifter retainer and dog bones new. I got mine from scoggin-dickey for less than $100.00

How are you planning to run a Quadrajet on a Victor jr. intake?
Old 11-03-2017, 08:33 PM
  #22  
Buccaneer
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Originally Posted by mobird
Yeah definitely needs a little cleanup from the overspray.


I'm always nervous about paint in the lifter valley, but I see people do it a lot. It seems like some of that paint could wear off and get in the oil, or does it not really matter?
Just a little FYI. I personally would never paint the lifter valley with regular paint, but I have done a couple motors a while ago using Glyptal which works great and won't flake off into oil. See link--> http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html

Also, make sure you get ALL that paint out of those lifters bores and off the block surface. Hope your build goes well.

Last edited by Buccaneer; 11-03-2017 at 08:34 PM.
Old 11-03-2017, 10:30 PM
  #23  
mobird
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Originally Posted by Crimson Thunder
You can buy the lifter retainer and dog bones new. I got mine from scoggin-dickey for less than $100.00

How are you planning to run a Quadrajet on a Victor jr. intake?
good to know, thanks.

I'm already running the victor jr. And quadrajet on my current.motor. Using a ported 3/4" carb adapter.
Old 11-04-2017, 10:24 AM
  #24  
bence13_33
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Originally Posted by mobird
Oh dang, didn't realize that. So I can't just buy and aftermarket main cap and bolt it on, it has to be matched to my block?
Seeing as how you don't have main caps it may be easier to just have your machinist pick up a set for you as you will probably want to have the mains align bored....that will "match" your caps to your block properly.
Old 11-06-2017, 08:59 AM
  #25  
mobird
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Originally Posted by bence13_33
Seeing as how you don't have main caps it may be easier to just have your machinist pick up a set for you as you will probably want to have the mains align bored....that will "match" your caps to your block properly.

That's the plan. I'm gonna call around today and see how affordable it is. From what I'm seeing online, it might be cheaper for me to sell this block and get another one that has main caps...
Old 11-06-2017, 03:24 PM
  #26  
Ibanez540r
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Something I don't think I saw mentioned...

With a GM factory roller block you can get a cam that accepts the cam thrust plate which bolts behind your timing set. You will also need the late style timing set to match which has a different bolt pattern.

OR

You can use a "retrofit" style cam with the older 2pc style timing set and you will need to utilize a thrust button.

Both cams can be used with the factory dogbone and roller lifters. (Which you can get from Summit, Ebay, etc. for cheap. )
Old 11-06-2017, 04:00 PM
  #27  
cv67
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Maybe youre machinist can keep it in budget but seems by the time you buy caps and have them machined youre better off with anotehr block. Summit still sell new Gms for $700?
Old 11-08-2017, 10:08 AM
  #28  
mobird
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Ok I found a local machine shop who says they can do it for $400 including main caps and machining costs, which seems reasonable. So all in I will be at $500 for a late 350 block (1 piece rear seal, factory roller, 4-bolt) with all machine work done and ready to assemble, which seems reasonable.


So now I gotta keep an eye out for a budget stroker kit. I'd like forged pistons as added safety, definitely going for internal balance. I'm fine with a cast crank at my power levels. I'm hoping with 10.5:1 compression, a good roller cam and my Brodix IK200 heads that I will be somewhere around 500hp.
Old 11-10-2017, 12:32 PM
  #29  
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keep us posted - this is a great build



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