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Pre-Fab or Custom Made Roll Bars?

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Old 11-23-2017, 12:04 PM
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Taijutsu
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Default Pre-Fab or Custom Made Roll Bars?

Forum: I will need a 4 pt roll bar for my 74. I have seen some members use a store bought bar from a vendor. Others have made their own. Any advice about what worked and what didn't?
I'm thinking of a 4 pt bar that can add 2 more points of support for a 6 pt cage.
I will have a removeable rear window and it can't be blocked.

TIA

R
Old 11-23-2017, 05:37 PM
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Jason Staley
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I purchased a roll bar kit, but ended up modifying it anyway. It was designed to mount to the frame next to the seat, but with me being 6'2" that put it way too close to my head. I had to narrow the main hoop to attach it to the frame kick up behind the seat. This allowed me to put it as close as possible to the rear window.

Next time I'll probably buy a tube bender and make it from scratch.


Old 11-23-2017, 06:12 PM
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Taijutsu
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Originally Posted by Jason Staley
I purchased a roll bar kit, but ended up modifying it anyway. It was designed to mount to the frame next to the seat, but with me being 6'2" that put it way too close to my head. I had to narrow the main hoop to attach it to the frame kick up behind the seat. This allowed me to put it as close as possible to the rear window.

Next time I'll probably buy a tube bender and make it from scratch.


I have heard of similar stories. I'm not set up to fabricate something like that. But I do want it to fit properly. I can see more research is needed!

R
Old 11-23-2017, 07:30 PM
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The13Bats
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What i ran into first was "roll bar" or "show bar" mine is a show bar,

If you require a true certified roll bar then you need to look into the regulations of the class you want your car to be approved for,

Its not a case of grab an old show bar, tack on an extra piece paint it, bolt it in and call it a roll bar, the inspector will laugh,

However,
If like myself and show bar is all you want doesnt matter if you build it or if its an old or new off the shelf item,

If it was me and i needed a true roll bar i would have it made to my car and personal needs as generic fit might not be so great, might interfer with stuff...
Old 11-24-2017, 12:22 AM
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vettemand
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I researched this quite a bit myself but still haven't bought it. This is where my decision landed. Removable cross brace so you can access the back window and a bolt in installation so it can be removed if needed but, still a true roll bar. http://www.autopowerindustries.com/R...983?syear=1977 but again, I haven't owned it or installed it. If you go this route, I'd love feedback and pics!
Old 11-24-2017, 12:43 AM
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The13Bats
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While racers might not care and i am a convertible person,

If i had a coupe a removable rear window would be a must and a show bar that ruined that pop out window feature would be for me a hack job i couldnt live with,

So that removable bar on a true roll bar sounds like a sweet option,
Old 11-24-2017, 09:57 AM
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3X2
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This is may be what you are looking for: http://swracecars.com/store/1968-198...7=11-1008.aspx

Although more drag race oriented, they can build whatever you want.
Old 11-24-2017, 10:40 AM
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maj75
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OP, why do you need the roll bar and removable rear window? Please don’t use a roll bar in a street driven car, unless you are always wearing a helmet.
Old 11-24-2017, 11:28 AM
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Taijutsu
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Default Why Not?

Reasons for a bar in my Vette?

1. Stiffens the chassis for better handling.
2. Better protection in the event of a crash
3. Attach shoulder belts
4. Required for faster classes at Silver State
5. If I get enough power to the ground, sub 11 sec required.
6. I would like to do some track days safely.

The removable rear window makes for a much nicer ride.
Everyone that has one loves it.
A forum member had a bar installed that was found to block removable rear window. He was very unhappy!

R
Old 11-26-2017, 11:08 AM
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69autoXr
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My vote is go custom. Find a local cage builder and tell them exactly what you want and they can make it happen. I was able to keep my rear window removable, I trimmed the window pins down as much as possible and lift the glass out from the outside. Remember the top of the main hoop needs to have clearance so the upper window latches can operate.






The paint gets knicked/scraped occasionally if I'm not careful lifting the window out.


Last edited by 69autoXr; 11-26-2017 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 11-26-2017, 04:43 PM
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I've been looking at this myself, but with the long rear window things are a bit easier for me I think. I know a guy who builds many competition roll bars/cages locally, and I've had a chat with him about it already. I'll most likely end up with a full bolt in cage, but with the front separately bolted in to allow me to just run it as a half cage most of the time. A full cage is needed for only a very small number of the events im interested in.
Old 11-27-2017, 12:25 AM
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TCracingCA
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I lowered the seat and have the primary roll hoop as close to the roof as I can get! So in street driving, no chance of hitting head, but still positioned close enough to be legal in racing! It is positioned forward, and does not set on the lockup frame, but I cut it diagonal and welded it more on the rise of the kickups , which meant a bigger surface welding, but more glass had to be removed to do that! For most racing, you have to brace at 2/3, so those don't interfere with the window! Additional diagonal brace on the hoop easy to bolt in and put a head pad on that for extra roll over strength! I am .120 Wall 2 inch chromoly , so strong enough without the cross brace! In the C3, I just have a 6 point, with a quick disconnect side side bar, in case of side impact, but that is not race level in protection! The 4 point roll over is adequate!

Last edited by TCracingCA; 11-27-2017 at 12:37 AM.

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