Steering wheel stopped locking
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Steering wheel stopped locking
The tilt/tele steering wheel will not lock, where it was locking before. I have a picture that shows the lock rod; it moves up and down with pressure so the spring is okay; it just does not protrude enough to engage with the lock ring. Could something simple have happened when they removed the steering column and reinstalled it cause this? When I turn the ignition key to start, the rod goes farther down; it just does not return high/out enough after turning the key back to engage the lock ring anymore.
I am working on getting the horn operational also. Looks like everything is there to do that but not having much luck. So the rod that has to do with the horn springs alright, I need to see if the L shaped extension that is part of the horn contact is the right length. Should it be touching that spring loaded rod, or only touch it when the button is pushed? Thanks. I have copies and have been reading J Shay's papers, however I don't have the pics/diagrams.
Thanks
By the way, the tilt/tele works with no problems.
I am working on getting the horn operational also. Looks like everything is there to do that but not having much luck. So the rod that has to do with the horn springs alright, I need to see if the L shaped extension that is part of the horn contact is the right length. Should it be touching that spring loaded rod, or only touch it when the button is pushed? Thanks. I have copies and have been reading J Shay's papers, however I don't have the pics/diagrams.
Thanks
By the way, the tilt/tele works with no problems.
Last edited by kansas123; 12-04-2017 at 06:30 PM.
#2
why would the column have been removed to install new carpets, was something else done to the car?
Last edited by MelWff; 12-01-2017 at 12:41 PM.
#3
Just another Corvette guy
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi k,
I'm sorry I can't help with your steering column woes.
But, I did notice the odometer numbers...that's a pretty NICE total if it's the first time around!!!!!
Good Luck with your column problem.
Regards,
Alan
I'm sorry I can't help with your steering column woes.
But, I did notice the odometer numbers...that's a pretty NICE total if it's the first time around!!!!!
Good Luck with your column problem.
Regards,
Alan
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kansas123 (12-01-2017)
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
seems to me that the plate that the column has on it down there might be mounted ro the floorboard (and under the carpet). Been a while since I replaced the original with this tt one.
#6
have you actually asked the shop what they did that might account for your current problem? I changed carpets in my 69 and did not have to remove the steering column.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
BINGO, I BET THAT'S IT! Thanks a lot! Next warm day, will check it out!
Update: Looks like I can't get that lever to more closer to 1 o'clock so I have decided to pull the steering wheel back enough to move the spine 1 tooth clockwise; hope it's enough.
Update: Looks like I can't get that lever to more closer to 1 o'clock so I have decided to pull the steering wheel back enough to move the spine 1 tooth clockwise; hope it's enough.
Last edited by kansas123; 12-02-2017 at 12:47 PM. Reason: Update
#10
Emerging Vendor
If the backdrive lever works and the ignition lock goes to the lock position there is another possibility.There is a spring that attaches to the lock lever and towards the bottom of the lock housing secured by a screw. The spring has a long u shaped extension that goes into the far right cavity of the plastic ignition gear. It puts pressure on the rod to fully extend it.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Update, fixed the horn but no dice on Steering Wheel lock yet
Update: Could not get the steering column to let go and come out; figured that was telling me something so I gave up trying to get the steering wheel to lock properly.
Update: So the horn is fixed; the problem was with the horn contact, I believe this tt column came with a standard horn contact (?), I have heard they are different. the "_" part of the "L" on the contact was not long enough to reach the spring loaded rod; now it does and the horn works. However, I still haven't figured out where to mount it, there is no 'obvious' place, except somewhere in the front where the green wire reaches.
Thanks for everyone's input.
Update: So the horn is fixed; the problem was with the horn contact, I believe this tt column came with a standard horn contact (?), I have heard they are different. the "_" part of the "L" on the contact was not long enough to reach the spring loaded rod; now it does and the horn works. However, I still haven't figured out where to mount it, there is no 'obvious' place, except somewhere in the front where the green wire reaches.
Thanks for everyone's input.
#12
Le Mans Master
David, don't know if you've seen or read any of Jim Shea's papers, but he's really the steering column Guru around here. Below are some of his papers you may find helpful.
If you have any questions for him, you can PM Jim directly here...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-jim-shea.html
If Jim can't answer your questions you have a serious problem...
Good luck... GUSTO
If you have any questions for him, you can PM Jim directly here...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-jim-shea.html
If Jim can't answer your questions you have a serious problem...
Good luck... GUSTO
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kansas123 (12-03-2017)
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
David, don't know if you've seen or read any of Jim Shea's papers, but he's really the steering column Guru around here. Below are some of his papers you may find helpful.
If you have any questions for him, you can PM Jim directly here...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-jim-shea.html
If Jim can't answer your questions you have a serious problem...
Good luck... GUSTO
If you have any questions for him, you can PM Jim directly here...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-jim-shea.html
If Jim can't answer your questions you have a serious problem...
Good luck... GUSTO
#14
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: Saginaw Michigan
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Thanks, yes. I have copies of his 3 papers but didn't have these diagrams, they will be helpful. This lock has really thrown me for a loop: the lever that is supposed to be at about the 1 o'clock position when the key is off is as far up as it can go, as it is making contact with the bottom of the power brake booster. I could swear it used to work but maybe it didn't. Maybe I am thinking of the standard column that I used to have. thanks again
Jim
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I double checked, the lever is not touching the booster as I had thought. I am starting to think the problem with the pin is with the sector, spring, maybe the pin itself. I have autopsied another column in the past and remember some of that workings, plus I have your diagrams, papers and service manual. Now I need the courage to get into that again. Thanks. This is the only think I can think of that I have yet to be check.
#17
Le Mans Master
Parts 23-30 will be accessible when you remove the upper shroud part 15. 24-25-26 is the spring that puts pressure on the tilt portion, ie., when you pull the tile lever the wheel snaps full up. #30 is a pivot pin that the lower part 23 tilts on. THe sector is #29, spring and lock pin are 27 and 18.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Parts 23-30 will be accessible when you remove the upper shroud part 15. 24-25-26 is the spring that puts pressure on the tilt portion, ie., when you pull the tile lever the wheel snaps full up. #30 is a pivot pin that the lower part 23 tilts on. THe sector is #29, spring and lock pin are 27 and 18.
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kansas123 (12-06-2017)
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Update on Steering Wheel (not) locking
So I dissected the tt steering column far enough to have access to the sector gear etc and it is not missing teeth nor is it 'off'; everything seems to be there and in very good shape. So I cleaned up the parts as best as I could and lightly oiled. My new question is, could I make a slight adjustment in the position of the ignition switch, thereby moving the switch rod, enough to get the lock rod to engage the lock plate? The reason I ask is because if I move the lock cylinder to the accessory position, the lock rod moves enough to lock the wheel. In the off position rod is just missing moving that much more to engage the plate so maybe just a little adjustment of the ignition switch and thereby, the rod... Thanks.