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79 L82 dies in a stop light - restarts with great difficulty

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Old 03-08-2018, 08:52 PM
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Lagonia
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
That might be it, the Modge. Might be getting heat soaked on the highway, then cools off at lower RPM. When they fail, its usually for several minutes until cool down however. Then they start right up. How old is the modge?
Distributor assembly, including module and coil looked brand new - PO had replaced it.

Originally Posted by Ydnar44
Carter edelbrock's like to boil gas, do the 79's have cast iron intake's?
Intake is an aluminum Edelbrock

Originally Posted by Big2Bird
I know hindsight is 20 20, but you need to stop throwing parts at it and identify the issue.
Fortunately, what you have replaced is not a total loss.
I hate throwing money and parts, you are right, but when desperation sets in it clouds your judgement - it becomes "easy" to throw in new parts so that you can check them off your list.
Old 03-08-2018, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Lagonia
Distributor assembly, including module and coil looked brand new - PO had replaced it.


Intake is an aluminum Edelbrock


I hate throwing money and parts, you are right, but when desperation sets in it clouds your judgement - it becomes "easy" to throw in new parts so that you can check them off your list.
Stuff like changing the sender and filter sock is money well spent. I have seen more than one car with that sock split/crumbled/torn. They weren't meant to last 40 years. The sock debri gets it the pump check valves and causes similar issues to yours.

It's hard to diagnose a car over the net. Stick to basics. Well find it.
Old 03-08-2018, 09:37 PM
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calwldlife
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since you have a repeatable cause of this,
on weekend drive it the same way.
when it stalls jump out and take the air cleaner cover off
and see if the accelerator pumps spray gas.
they spray, gas at carb.

any cornering during this spirited drive?
offramp sweep one way?
could be something in tank that moves and blocks
pickup.

wouldn't hurt to check module is installed with heatsink grease.
Old 03-08-2018, 09:51 PM
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Fuel tank
Old 03-08-2018, 11:36 PM
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My experience with the same problem has been with 4 barrel carbs and hot running engines that get the fuel to start boiling. Fixing that is not really an easy trick but there are things that help. Just my 2 cents on it.
Old 03-09-2018, 12:13 AM
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Big2Bird
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Originally Posted by CiCiC3
My experience with the same problem has been with 4 barrel carbs and hot running engines that get the fuel to start boiling. Fixing that is not really an easy trick but there are things that help. Just my 2 cents on it.
He said this is on a 1/4 mile commute. It would have to get hot real quick.

SO, I have to ask, is the choke working/opening?

Last edited by Big2Bird; 03-09-2018 at 12:43 AM.
Old 03-09-2018, 12:50 AM
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That’s 25 miles to where it stalled out and then the last 1/4 mile from the intersection to the office. But I have heard of it happening after a few miles on a hot day. That’s why they sometimes ice racing engines around the carb at the drags.
Old 03-09-2018, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CiCiC3
That’s 25 miles to where it stalled out and then the last 1/4 mile from the intersection to the office. But I have heard of it happening after a few miles on a hot day. That’s why they sometimes ice racing engines around the carb at the drags.
Missed that part.
Old 03-09-2018, 07:23 AM
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Lagonia
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Yes, 25 mile straight shot on an expensive toll road doing 75-80 mph all the way non-stop on a 4 speed manual with the revs screeching (once I fix this, I am putting a 5 speed TKO, btw) - 50% of the time when I exit and stop in the traffic light or stop light - boom - engine turns off. In *all* cases the ambient temperature was in the 60s. *If* it is heat related, this will not be drive-able at all in the hot Texas summer. Fuel injection is an option I suppose but that would be a last option.

Last edited by Lagonia; 03-09-2018 at 10:07 AM.
Old 03-09-2018, 09:46 AM
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I think BigBird is on to something.

The Heat Sink Compound is critical under the modge. Some brand new modges come with a small tube of it, others do not. Its soooooo easy just to say, screw it and not apply the compound. (which maybe the PO did)

The only place I found a tube of it was at a Radio Shack yrs ago. I do not know if Summit or Jegs carries that type of product and do not mistakingly use dielectric grease. Two different products.

Heat destroys those modges. It breaks the electrical contact circuits inside the unit. Then when the temps drop, contact is made again, engine starts right up.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 03-09-2018 at 09:48 AM.
Old 03-09-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I think BigBird is on to something.

The Heat Sink Compound is critical under the modge. Some brand new modges come with a small tube of it, others do not. Its soooooo easy just to say, screw it and not apply the compound. (which maybe the PO did)

The only place I found a tube of it was at a Radio Shack yrs ago. I do not know if Summit or Jegs carries that type of product and do not mistakingly use dielectric grease. Two different products.

Heat destroys those modges. It breaks the electrical contact circuits inside the unit. Then when the temps drop, contact is made again, engine starts right up.
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Old 03-09-2018, 10:54 AM
  #32  
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"90% of all carb problems are ignition problems."

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Old 03-09-2018, 06:03 PM
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I solved a problem with similar symptoms on my 76 manual by adding an insulating spacer between the performer intake and the 1406 carb, as well as routing the fuel line carefully.
Gas was boiling.
​​​​​since then, no more stalling or hesitation after some spirited driving on the highway.
cheap and easy to do, worth a try.
Ced
Old 03-09-2018, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jazzyced
I solved a problem with similar symptoms on my 76 manual by adding an insulating spacer between the performer intake and the 1406 carb, as well as routing the fuel line carefully.
Gas was boiling.
​​​​​since then, no more stalling or hesitation after some spirited driving on the highway.
cheap and easy to do, worth a try.
Ced
It has got to be. The last remaining electrical item I have left to replace is the ignition module which I actually got this afternoon - will be installing it tomorrow. I ran some local errands this afternoon and after the 3rd stop going home was a stressful affair. Every time I slowed down nearing a traffic light or stop sign, it would die. It would start after a few cranks but I had to keep the rpms high (2k) to prevent it from dying. Once out of the intersection I had no problems. I am used to ignition modules crapping out and staying crapped out as opposed to run one moment and be fine the next...

Any of these shields shown in the link below any good?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rsistYmm=false
Old 03-09-2018, 06:33 PM
  #35  
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Your symptoms don't really fit well with the classic Corvette heat soak problem. Usually that happens when you park a hot car and let it sit for a while. When you go to restart it, the fuel has boiled off and it won't run. Not saying its impossible that it would happen after prolonged high RPM operation, but that's not the common presentation. I'm inclined to agree that the module is the most likely offender. I'd swap that out and see what happens. Any chance you could borrow one to try?
Old 03-09-2018, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Lagonia
It has got to be. The last remaining electrical item I have left to replace is the ignition module which I actually got this afternoon - will be installing it tomorrow. I ran some local errands this afternoon and after the 3rd stop going home was a stressful affair. Every time I slowed down nearing a traffic light or stop sign, it would die. It would start after a few cranks but I had to keep the rpms high (2k) to prevent it from dying. Once out of the intersection I had no problems. I am used to ignition modules crapping out and staying crapped out as opposed to run one moment and be fine the next...

Any of these shields shown in the link below any good?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rsistYmm=false
I like the Holley 108-70. I've used this or one like it on pretty much every engine I've ever built since I was a teenager. On my current engine, I made my own from a piece of aluminum. You always end up cutting and modifying the thing for clearance anyway. Just make sure you have a 1/4" insulator in addition to the plate.
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Old 03-09-2018, 06:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by drwet
Any chance you could borrow one to try?
Yep, I bought an Accel 35361 from O'Reilly. I'll install it tomorrow and see what happens.

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Old 03-09-2018, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Lagonia
Yep, I bought an Accel 35361 from O'Reilly. I'll install it tomorrow and see what happens.
Does it come with the compound?
Old 03-09-2018, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Does it come with the compound?
Yes it does!
Old 03-10-2018, 02:40 AM
  #40  
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I went with the 0.32in Edelbrock gasket.
some AutoZone shops carry it.
The PO also had a rubber fuel line, in contact with the intake...


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