79 L82 dies in a stop light - restarts with great difficulty
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
I hate throwing money and parts, you are right, but when desperation sets in it clouds your judgement - it becomes "easy" to throw in new parts so that you can check them off your list.
#22
Distributor assembly, including module and coil looked brand new - PO had replaced it.
Intake is an aluminum Edelbrock
I hate throwing money and parts, you are right, but when desperation sets in it clouds your judgement - it becomes "easy" to throw in new parts so that you can check them off your list.
Intake is an aluminum Edelbrock
I hate throwing money and parts, you are right, but when desperation sets in it clouds your judgement - it becomes "easy" to throw in new parts so that you can check them off your list.
It's hard to diagnose a car over the net. Stick to basics. Well find it.
#23
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '22
since you have a repeatable cause of this,
on weekend drive it the same way.
when it stalls jump out and take the air cleaner cover off
and see if the accelerator pumps spray gas.
they spray, gas at carb.
any cornering during this spirited drive?
offramp sweep one way?
could be something in tank that moves and blocks
pickup.
wouldn't hurt to check module is installed with heatsink grease.
on weekend drive it the same way.
when it stalls jump out and take the air cleaner cover off
and see if the accelerator pumps spray gas.
they spray, gas at carb.
any cornering during this spirited drive?
offramp sweep one way?
could be something in tank that moves and blocks
pickup.
wouldn't hurt to check module is installed with heatsink grease.
#25
Racer
My experience with the same problem has been with 4 barrel carbs and hot running engines that get the fuel to start boiling. Fixing that is not really an easy trick but there are things that help. Just my 2 cents on it.
#26
SO, I have to ask, is the choke working/opening?
Last edited by Big2Bird; 03-09-2018 at 12:43 AM.
#27
Racer
That’s 25 miles to where it stalled out and then the last 1/4 mile from the intersection to the office. But I have heard of it happening after a few miles on a hot day. That’s why they sometimes ice racing engines around the carb at the drags.
#28
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes, 25 mile straight shot on an expensive toll road doing 75-80 mph all the way non-stop on a 4 speed manual with the revs screeching (once I fix this, I am putting a 5 speed TKO, btw) - 50% of the time when I exit and stop in the traffic light or stop light - boom - engine turns off. In *all* cases the ambient temperature was in the 60s. *If* it is heat related, this will not be drive-able at all in the hot Texas summer. Fuel injection is an option I suppose but that would be a last option.
Last edited by Lagonia; 03-09-2018 at 10:07 AM.
#30
Le Mans Master
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I think BigBird is on to something.
The Heat Sink Compound is critical under the modge. Some brand new modges come with a small tube of it, others do not. Its soooooo easy just to say, screw it and not apply the compound. (which maybe the PO did)
The only place I found a tube of it was at a Radio Shack yrs ago. I do not know if Summit or Jegs carries that type of product and do not mistakingly use dielectric grease. Two different products.
Heat destroys those modges. It breaks the electrical contact circuits inside the unit. Then when the temps drop, contact is made again, engine starts right up.
The Heat Sink Compound is critical under the modge. Some brand new modges come with a small tube of it, others do not. Its soooooo easy just to say, screw it and not apply the compound. (which maybe the PO did)
The only place I found a tube of it was at a Radio Shack yrs ago. I do not know if Summit or Jegs carries that type of product and do not mistakingly use dielectric grease. Two different products.
Heat destroys those modges. It breaks the electrical contact circuits inside the unit. Then when the temps drop, contact is made again, engine starts right up.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 03-09-2018 at 09:48 AM.
#31
I think BigBird is on to something.
The Heat Sink Compound is critical under the modge. Some brand new modges come with a small tube of it, others do not. Its soooooo easy just to say, screw it and not apply the compound. (which maybe the PO did)
The only place I found a tube of it was at a Radio Shack yrs ago. I do not know if Summit or Jegs carries that type of product and do not mistakingly use dielectric grease. Two different products.
Heat destroys those modges. It breaks the electrical contact circuits inside the unit. Then when the temps drop, contact is made again, engine starts right up.
The Heat Sink Compound is critical under the modge. Some brand new modges come with a small tube of it, others do not. Its soooooo easy just to say, screw it and not apply the compound. (which maybe the PO did)
The only place I found a tube of it was at a Radio Shack yrs ago. I do not know if Summit or Jegs carries that type of product and do not mistakingly use dielectric grease. Two different products.
Heat destroys those modges. It breaks the electrical contact circuits inside the unit. Then when the temps drop, contact is made again, engine starts right up.
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HeadsU.P. (03-09-2018)
#32
Tech Contributor
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"90% of all carb problems are ignition problems."
Lars
Lars
#33
Instructor
I solved a problem with similar symptoms on my 76 manual by adding an insulating spacer between the performer intake and the 1406 carb, as well as routing the fuel line carefully.
Gas was boiling.
since then, no more stalling or hesitation after some spirited driving on the highway.
cheap and easy to do, worth a try.
Ced
Gas was boiling.
since then, no more stalling or hesitation after some spirited driving on the highway.
cheap and easy to do, worth a try.
Ced
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
I solved a problem with similar symptoms on my 76 manual by adding an insulating spacer between the performer intake and the 1406 carb, as well as routing the fuel line carefully.
Gas was boiling.
since then, no more stalling or hesitation after some spirited driving on the highway.
cheap and easy to do, worth a try.
Ced
Gas was boiling.
since then, no more stalling or hesitation after some spirited driving on the highway.
cheap and easy to do, worth a try.
Ced
Any of these shields shown in the link below any good?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rsistYmm=false
#35
Melting Slicks
Your symptoms don't really fit well with the classic Corvette heat soak problem. Usually that happens when you park a hot car and let it sit for a while. When you go to restart it, the fuel has boiled off and it won't run. Not saying its impossible that it would happen after prolonged high RPM operation, but that's not the common presentation. I'm inclined to agree that the module is the most likely offender. I'd swap that out and see what happens. Any chance you could borrow one to try?
#36
Melting Slicks
It has got to be. The last remaining electrical item I have left to replace is the ignition module which I actually got this afternoon - will be installing it tomorrow. I ran some local errands this afternoon and after the 3rd stop going home was a stressful affair. Every time I slowed down nearing a traffic light or stop sign, it would die. It would start after a few cranks but I had to keep the rpms high (2k) to prevent it from dying. Once out of the intersection I had no problems. I am used to ignition modules crapping out and staying crapped out as opposed to run one moment and be fine the next...
Any of these shields shown in the link below any good?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rsistYmm=false
Any of these shields shown in the link below any good?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rsistYmm=false
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Lagonia (03-09-2018)
#37
Racer
Thread Starter
#38
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#39
Racer
Thread Starter