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Five VIR Eliminator Questions

Old 12-29-2017, 06:32 PM
  #21  
Greg
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Thanks 7T1, the system is already out of the car. I'm about to start the process of re-installing it all.
I have heard much about the Sanden comp. as well, especially regarding the cycling rates. Were you able to locate a direct bolt-on unit or did you have to fab/replace brackets as well?
This was part of the reason I wanted to keep the A6, as others were finding some problems with direct replacement of the Sanden. However,
once they got through the mess of brackets, etc. they were happy with the results.
I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel here, but I want to get the most efficient system possible with as little outward, physical change as possible.
Old 12-29-2017, 06:32 PM
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calwldlife
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Interesting a quick look for a parallel condenser showed they are Expensive. Any tips? 81
Old 12-29-2017, 06:37 PM
  #23  
chevymans 77
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7T1, not exactly correct the eliminator kit also adds a fixed orifice

The pressure switch is to cycle the compressor to keep the coil temps above 32*.

Neal

Last edited by chevymans 77; 12-29-2017 at 06:40 PM.
Old 12-29-2017, 06:41 PM
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'75
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I got a universal parallel flow condenser pretty cheap and easy to install. Made up custom hoses though. I switched to R134a, the sanden 508, parallel flow condenser, VIR eliminator and C4 blower motor and wheel. It cools well, but if I was to do it over, I would switch to the later C3 evaporator with the orifice tube instead of the Vir eliminator, it has a fixed orifice, no way to adjust. With the orifice tube you can play with different sizes.
Old 12-29-2017, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
There is no discrepancy, doing so drops the coil pressure which also drops the coil temps. The outcome will be the same for both r12 and 134a but will allow the coil to freeze up in certain conditions. The OEM pressure set point is set to allow the system to function correctly in most all conditions.

Neal
Neal, you misunderstood my post. I don't mean a discrepancy in your data, I mean a discrepancy with the conflicting info on this very point of whether to adjust the POA or not. I've read some excellent arguments on both sides of this issue where some of the bloggers are just as adamant for adjustment as you are for not adjusting. The debate is very close. Really 50/50.

At this point I think what I'd like to try is replacing the desiccant in the VIR and adjusting the POA a quarter turn (CCW) and add the parallel flow condenser and keeping the A6. This seems like the least amount of change up and "should" give positive results.
Appreciate all the input guys.
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Old 12-29-2017, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
I got a universal parallel flow condenser pretty cheap and easy to install. Made up custom hoses though. I switched to R134a, the sanden 508, parallel flow condenser, VIR eliminator and C4 blower motor and wheel. It cools well, but if I was to do it over, I would switch to the later C3 evaporator with the orifice tube instead of the Vir eliminator, it has a fixed orifice, no way to adjust. With the orifice tube you can play with different sizes.
Tip on condenser?
Thanks

Last edited by calwldlife; 12-29-2017 at 06:52 PM.
Old 12-29-2017, 06:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by calwldlife
Tip on condenser?
Thanks
Yes, I would also like this info please.
Old 12-29-2017, 07:43 PM
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I can't remember the size I got, like the pic shows it's similar in size to the original.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...enser&_sacat=0


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Old 12-29-2017, 07:58 PM
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What about the Pro6ten compressor? It's a direct bolt in replacement for the A6.
Old 12-30-2017, 12:19 PM
  #30  
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Greg...

I bought the complete conversion kit from Classic Auto Air. It had everything needed to make the swap to 134a: Sanden compressor, lines, new drier, fittings, O-rings. It is a complete conversion and all needed parts are in the kit.

The only "extra" items are that you will need to clean/purge the old system of any oil and R-12 refrigerant using a spray cleaner that you can get at most auto parts stores (messy...but necessary) and you need to get the system checked out and charged with 134a at some local car A/C shop.

Affordable alternative and you can still use your stock controls and outlets.
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Old 12-30-2017, 06:26 PM
  #31  
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I have had my '72 vert for some 22 years now, old show car so not in the least bit concerned about OEM crap....up north yet I found a '88-91? vette serp drive setup, and so have the modern comp and have suffered along with good cooling even here in FLORIDA summers....but the evap is OEM far as I know, been cleaned out good, the POA was readjusted as per above, and a few months ago I decided to get a Vintage Air replacement condenser and put that in.....the biggest bitch was the damn plumbing I ended up making my own adapter/fittings for both the in and out.....plumbing soldered that silly steel line off the comp to the top fitting, and on the bottom, that was an equal bitch there seems to be some stupid reason I can't find a fitting to the OEM style drier....so I cut the pipe off the old tired condenser and used a V/A fitting all clamped down nice stock style and a hose over to 3 clamps on the drier ......

PIA, but AFAIK, the system still holds 134......

and it cools good......not that I need it much over the last couple months.....

BTW, I did the C4 blower conversion some years ago....VAST improvement in air flow.....I got tired of the silly output on the driver's left leg...left the duct off and patched in my own airflow outlet to keep my feet cool/warm not freeze my legs....the center top outlet blows like Irene........



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