Convertible top install
#1
Drifting
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Convertible top install
Trying to gather some information about my next project changing
My black cloth top to a white vinyl. No search words seem to work.
Does anyone know where this info is. I have the cd from Kotch just
Thought I would look for more. It must be somewhere else. Thanks
My black cloth top to a white vinyl. No search words seem to work.
Does anyone know where this info is. I have the cd from Kotch just
Thought I would look for more. It must be somewhere else. Thanks
#3
Race Director
I know I prefer to only use the fiberboard design tack strips. They are so rigid that when the top is being put up. The fiberboard design tack strips seem to really hold their position and not move.
DUB
DUB
#4
Melting Slicks
Here is one from Super Chevy and JK Rowley
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/33283/
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3.html
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3b.html
The two from Rowley is the one I liked the best.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Happy New Year!!!
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3.html
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3b.html
The two from Rowley is the one I liked the best.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Happy New Year!!!
Last edited by 20mercury; 12-29-2017 at 10:40 PM.
#5
Drifting
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I think so . Just realized there is no cable and spring . Do you
Know where they attach ? I will order them today. Just have to figure out where they go.thanks again Dub.
#6
Drifting
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http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/33283/
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3.html
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3b.html
The two from Rowley is the one I liked the best.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Happy New Year!!!
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3.html
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3b.html
The two from Rowley is the one I liked the best.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Happy New Year!!!
#7
Team Owner
I second the original fiberboard tack strips. I've heard the plastic ones don't hold the staples very well.
The springs and cables go though a pocket in the top. I can't remember where they attached as I replaced my top over 10 years ago. I do remember that it was not a big deal and the Knoch video had a section on them.
One trick I did was to leave the top out in the sun to stretch it out before installation. This way you can get it real tight when it cools off and when it does heat up it in the sun it will stay tight. Another thing I did was use stainless steel staples. A little more expensive but I know they will not rust.
It's not a bad job just take your time and fit/refit before going for final installation.
One mistake I made was when I installed the two pads I didn't have the front bow completely in the up position so it's facing the rear about 10mm. I see it and I bet anyone who has done this will notice but everyone always comments on how good my top looks so I guess it's not that bad.
Good luck, take your time and you'll smile every time you look at it knowing you did it yourself.
The springs and cables go though a pocket in the top. I can't remember where they attached as I replaced my top over 10 years ago. I do remember that it was not a big deal and the Knoch video had a section on them.
One trick I did was to leave the top out in the sun to stretch it out before installation. This way you can get it real tight when it cools off and when it does heat up it in the sun it will stay tight. Another thing I did was use stainless steel staples. A little more expensive but I know they will not rust.
It's not a bad job just take your time and fit/refit before going for final installation.
One mistake I made was when I installed the two pads I didn't have the front bow completely in the up position so it's facing the rear about 10mm. I see it and I bet anyone who has done this will notice but everyone always comments on how good my top looks so I guess it's not that bad.
Good luck, take your time and you'll smile every time you look at it knowing you did it yourself.
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#8
Race Director
One end of the cable/spring assembly is attached to the very outer front corner of your FRONT BOW....right at the end of where your tack strip will fit
It can be held in with a pop-rivet or a nice machine screw and nut.
The other end is riveted to the VERTICAL portion of the top frame where the back edge of your door glass seals to the weatherstrip you will install there.
I have to look through my photos and see if I can find EXACTLY where it is attached for you.
But it should be rather easy to find when you get your new cables in due to they are a specific length and IF you simply hold it in the outer top corner of your front bow...then the other end will go to where you will find a hole about 3/16" and put it there.
When you watch Al Knoch put the top on...it shows the front location for your cable/spring assembly...because he installs a pop rivet in there to hold the spring/cable.
DUB
It can be held in with a pop-rivet or a nice machine screw and nut.
The other end is riveted to the VERTICAL portion of the top frame where the back edge of your door glass seals to the weatherstrip you will install there.
I have to look through my photos and see if I can find EXACTLY where it is attached for you.
But it should be rather easy to find when you get your new cables in due to they are a specific length and IF you simply hold it in the outer top corner of your front bow...then the other end will go to where you will find a hole about 3/16" and put it there.
When you watch Al Knoch put the top on...it shows the front location for your cable/spring assembly...because he installs a pop rivet in there to hold the spring/cable.
DUB
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JBrooke825 (01-01-2018)
#9
Team Owner
It seems there are only two makers of tops, Al Knoch....which according to info is faltering in quality there daze.....the other name/maker escapes me....
All I remember is that some 10 years ago I changed my top and it was a greatly MIS MADE top that overhung the driver and passenger side by a wide margin windows never closed right when up.....
replacement top on there now is 1/2-3/4 inch taller from deck to top of window bend.....and so the doors close fine.....
All I remember is that some 10 years ago I changed my top and it was a greatly MIS MADE top that overhung the driver and passenger side by a wide margin windows never closed right when up.....
replacement top on there now is 1/2-3/4 inch taller from deck to top of window bend.....and so the doors close fine.....
#10
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
It seems there are only two makers of tops, Al Knoch....which according to info is faltering in quality there daze.....the other name/maker escapes me....
All I remember is that some 10 years ago I changed my top and it was a greatly MIS MADE top that overhung the driver and passenger side by a wide margin windows never closed right when up.....
replacement top on there now is 1/2-3/4 inch taller from deck to top of window bend.....and so the doors close fine.....
All I remember is that some 10 years ago I changed my top and it was a greatly MIS MADE top that overhung the driver and passenger side by a wide margin windows never closed right when up.....
replacement top on there now is 1/2-3/4 inch taller from deck to top of window bend.....and so the doors close fine.....
The only top I'll install in my shop is the AK brand.......
I'm doing a top install right now so if you have questions fire away... The thing I'll tell you is that a good heater is your friend and that when running the staples for the rear bow... make sure you have it tight and you run a straight line with the staples. If you have questions post back.
Wiillcox
#11
Drifting
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Key makes a top for the cars... and IMHO, their top is junk. The straps were wrong, the top fit like duty.... CA sells Key tops and I did the test fit for them about 8 years ago.. I wasn't impressed and in my humble opinion, it was a top I'd never want to sell.
The only top I'll install in my shop is the AK brand.......
I'm doing a top install right now so if you have questions fire away... The thing I'll tell you is that a good heater is your friend and that when running the staples for the rear bow... make sure you have it tight and you run a straight line with the staples. If you have questions post back. My garage heater is right above the car.
Wiillcox
The only top I'll install in my shop is the AK brand.......
I'm doing a top install right now so if you have questions fire away... The thing I'll tell you is that a good heater is your friend and that when running the staples for the rear bow... make sure you have it tight and you run a straight line with the staples. If you have questions post back. My garage heater is right above the car.
Wiillcox
Last edited by JBrooke825; 12-30-2017 at 09:58 PM.
#12
Race Director
Key makes a top for the cars... and IMHO, their top is junk. The straps were wrong, the top fit like duty.... CA sells Key tops and I did the test fit for them about 8 years ago.. I wasn't impressed and in my humble opinion, it was a top I'd never want to sell.
The only top I'll install in my shop is the AK brand.......
I'm doing a top install right now so if you have questions fire away... The thing I'll tell you is that a good heater is your friend and that when running the staples for the rear bow... make sure you have it tight and you run a straight line with the staples. If you have questions post back.
Wiillcox
The only top I'll install in my shop is the AK brand.......
I'm doing a top install right now so if you have questions fire away... The thing I'll tell you is that a good heater is your friend and that when running the staples for the rear bow... make sure you have it tight and you run a straight line with the staples. If you have questions post back.
Wiillcox
DUB
#14
Race Director
#15
Drifting
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Rowley Corvette paper
Super Chevy article
Kotch cd.
All very interesting and different.
So far everything is tight ,the heat gun helps but is nerve racking.
Top is white.rear strap length is a puzzle so far ,we’ll see tommorow
I’ll take some pics then ,.
Super Chevy article
Kotch cd.
All very interesting and different.
So far everything is tight ,the heat gun helps but is nerve racking.
Top is white.rear strap length is a puzzle so far ,we’ll see tommorow
I’ll take some pics then ,.
#16
Race Director
I understand now...you are reading from numerous sources.
WOW...hopefully you have the car in an environment that you can really heat up. I know I will not put tops on when it is cold. The added costs of getting the top and the area heated is not worth it to me and they can wait til spring.
I do use a salamander kerosene heater like Al shows...it covers more surface area than trying to keep the vinyl warm with heat gun...and YES..I do also sue a heat gun...so it depends on what I need the heat to do. Hopefully yours is doing well.
DUB
WOW...hopefully you have the car in an environment that you can really heat up. I know I will not put tops on when it is cold. The added costs of getting the top and the area heated is not worth it to me and they can wait til spring.
I do use a salamander kerosene heater like Al shows...it covers more surface area than trying to keep the vinyl warm with heat gun...and YES..I do also sue a heat gun...so it depends on what I need the heat to do. Hopefully yours is doing well.
DUB
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dbadgley (05-12-2023)
#17
Drifting
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Straps
The shop and the car is warm. Today I am going to get the rear straps
Fastened to the rear bow. Need to get the length right. Some how.
I’ll let you know how it goes. The heat gun works fine . I don’t have a
Heater like he uses on the back window. I’ll have to figure something out.
Maybe hot towels?
Fastened to the rear bow. Need to get the length right. Some how.
I’ll let you know how it goes. The heat gun works fine . I don’t have a
Heater like he uses on the back window. I’ll have to figure something out.
Maybe hot towels?
#19
Race Director
So from what I can tell...you still have to staple the front bow area....and THEN glue the rear vertical areas where the back area of your door glass seal to that vertical w/strip????
From your photos...it is hard to tell if you have or have not glued the rear vertical areas of the top and the back edge of the door glass or not.
So far all is looking optically good.
DUB
From your photos...it is hard to tell if you have or have not glued the rear vertical areas of the top and the back edge of the door glass or not.
So far all is looking optically good.
DUB
#20
Drifting
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So from what I can tell...you still have to staple the front bow area....and THEN glue the rear vertical areas where the back area of your door glass seal to that vertical w/strip????
From your photos...it is hard to tell if you have or have not glued the rear vertical areas of the top and the back edge of the door glass or not.
So far all is looking optically good.
DUB
From your photos...it is hard to tell if you have or have not glued the rear vertical areas of the top and the back edge of the door glass or not.
So far all is looking optically good.
DUB
Off the mark.