1981 power window switch is burning my finger and breaking
#1
1981 power window switch is burning my finger and breaking
What is making my power window switch on the drivers side be so hot when I use it, it burns my finger?
I have had my 1981 corvette for over 2 years now. Soon after buying it the power window switch on the driver side broke so I replaced it. A few month later it got harder to move the switch again until it broke.
I thought maybe I had put in a junky switch so replaced it again, again a few month past and the same thing happened until it went, so now I know its not the switch itself.
The motor works just fine.
What is making the switch so hot that it burn my finger and brakes the switch?
Thanks in advance
I have had my 1981 corvette for over 2 years now. Soon after buying it the power window switch on the driver side broke so I replaced it. A few month later it got harder to move the switch again until it broke.
I thought maybe I had put in a junky switch so replaced it again, again a few month past and the same thing happened until it went, so now I know its not the switch itself.
The motor works just fine.
What is making the switch so hot that it burn my finger and brakes the switch?
Thanks in advance
#2
Le Mans Master
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The problem may not be the switch.
Stop using that switch as you have a dangerous short.
The PINK wire brings power to the switch.
The BROWN wire sends the window DOWN.
The DARK BLUE wire sends the window UP.
You have to trace all the wires and find the short before you melt all the wires.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...TkzNDc2YzgzNGU
The PINK wire brings power to the switch.
The BROWN wire sends the window DOWN.
The DARK BLUE wire sends the window UP.
You have to trace all the wires and find the short before you melt all the wires.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...TkzNDc2YzgzNGU
The following users liked this post:
Dinovette11 (12-30-2017)
#3
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The system is pulling way too much current. I am surprised the circuit breaker is not popping.
I'd check the ground at the motor-
I'd check the connections at the motor and switch
or it might just be worn brushes on the motor itself.
The original wiring having ALL the power run through the switch itself was a bad design- but was probably used because it was inexpensive.
The replacement switches have no where near the current capacity of the OEM switches-I'd recommend rewiring the power windows with relays- to take the load off the power window switch-
Right side -the relays have been added- left side is OEM wiring
I'd check the ground at the motor-
I'd check the connections at the motor and switch
or it might just be worn brushes on the motor itself.
The original wiring having ALL the power run through the switch itself was a bad design- but was probably used because it was inexpensive.
The replacement switches have no where near the current capacity of the OEM switches-I'd recommend rewiring the power windows with relays- to take the load off the power window switch-
Right side -the relays have been added- left side is OEM wiring
The following 2 users liked this post by Richard454:
Dinovette11 (12-30-2017),
mrvette (12-30-2017)
#4
Team Owner
The system is pulling way too much current. I am surprised the circuit breaker is not popping.
I'd check the ground at the motor-
I'd check the connections at the motor and switch
or it might just be worn brushes on the motor itself.
The original wiring having ALL the power run through the switch itself was a bad design- but was probably used because it was inexpensive.
The replacement switches have no where near the current capacity of the OEM switches-I'd recommend rewiring the power windows with relays- to take the load off the power window switch-
Right side -the relays have been added- left side is OEM wiring
I'd check the ground at the motor-
I'd check the connections at the motor and switch
or it might just be worn brushes on the motor itself.
The original wiring having ALL the power run through the switch itself was a bad design- but was probably used because it was inexpensive.
The replacement switches have no where near the current capacity of the OEM switches-I'd recommend rewiring the power windows with relays- to take the load off the power window switch-
Right side -the relays have been added- left side is OEM wiring
The following users liked this post:
Dinovette11 (12-30-2017)