$5000 engine
#21
Safety Car
......Yes, this is how I built my first 383. The engine was needing a rebuild anyway, and the parts cost the same whichever cam and internal parts I used. Just a general rebuild with upgraded parts.
#22
Race Director
Cheap, powerful, durable, pick 2. If you want 500 HP and only want to spend $5000 to get there your skimping somewhere. I spent $8000 on my 383 535 hp build and was frugal (not counting induction). It is fully forged, full roller, 4 bolt mains, ARP studded with AFR 195 heads, billet caps and rev kit. Good quality parts throughout. The weak link always breaks.
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PainfullySlow (01-03-2018)
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Do you have brand name on mind?
for the
Crank & pistons?
what do you think of Comp cams?
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
In my opinion setting budget limitations to that extent will mean skimping in certain areas. I'm not a fan of building motors that way. We all have budgetary ball parks that we try to stay within but horsepower is not cheap, what doesn't cost you initially can end up costing you much more down the road (i.e. skimping on rotating assembly parts). If it were me I would figure out your horsepower goals, put together a list of quality parts that will get you there and adjust your budget as need be.
If cheap horsepower is what you are after, nitrous is about the cheapest way to get there fast.
If cheap horsepower is what you are after, nitrous is about the cheapest way to get there fast.
Last edited by ariba; 01-03-2018 at 02:09 AM.
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
#28
Burning Brakes
And yes, I knew that build would be closer to 8 (as I am building a 383 myself right now) which is why I suggested not going this route.
If that is the way you want to go, you can pick up a forged rotating assembly from any of the parts houses, usually in the $1200-$2000 and up range. Here is a list of some of the options. https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...illocation=int
500hp seems to be the magic cutoff where it is suggested to go full forged on internals which drastically increases your price. I would not expect you to be able to build that 383 with a forged rotating assembly, a roller cam, and aluminum heads on that 5k budget. I think going with that skip white crate motor would be a sensible way to go on that budget.
Another option is to lower your power expectations a bit (450ish say) and it would allow you to use cast components which will allow you to stay within your budget. As many have said here, power does not come cheap and the cost increases exponentially the higher you go.
I think it has been said that it costs twice as much to build a 600hp sbc as it does a 500hp sbc. No personal experience but I can easily see how it would be true (and maybe more than double).
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ariba (01-03-2018)
#30
How about keeping your current engine, get a good upper end package, heads,cam and intake and maybe a carburetor if what you have will not work. You will pick up noticeable hp and tq!! This will keep you way under your $5k budget and keep you from pulling you engine. If you gotta have the 500hp number hit it with a small 100 shot of laughing gas and you are there with less than $5k in it.
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ariba (01-03-2018)
#31
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
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I think you're putting to much emphasis on the HP you want for the $$$. Concentrate on what you can get that will be reliable and meet your goals.
Don't forget that the car will need the rest of the drivetrain gone through if you actually expect to put 500hp to the ground without things failing and that work isn't cheap either.
If you do a completely new engine, then you can sell the current one to re-coup some of the money you have in it. Especially if you can show the buyer it running and even go for a drive to show it's good.
Junkyard LS and ebay turbo?
If that's too hard then a junkyard LS with a cam, intake and headers then?
I do my own work too, and LS is how I'd go. Could easily hit 400-450hp for under $5000 with the transmission included by finding the right donor.
What happened to the forged 383 crank you first listed???
Don't forget that the car will need the rest of the drivetrain gone through if you actually expect to put 500hp to the ground without things failing and that work isn't cheap either.
If you do a completely new engine, then you can sell the current one to re-coup some of the money you have in it. Especially if you can show the buyer it running and even go for a drive to show it's good.
I would do the LS option by buying a wreck. Of course I'm the kind of guy that would the work himself. I installed a RamJet 350 in mine in 2003, and I like it fine, but since I knew I was going to keep it for a long time (as you plan), it probably would have been smarter to go LS then (of course, LS was a lot more expensive then).
If I was making the same decision now, then I would upgrade to LS, especially considering that the price of LS engines has dropped and there are a ton of them out there nowadays. I really think you would be happier with the more modern LS engine all the way around.
If I was making the same decision now, then I would upgrade to LS, especially considering that the price of LS engines has dropped and there are a ton of them out there nowadays. I really think you would be happier with the more modern LS engine all the way around.
Junkyard LS and ebay turbo?
If that's too hard then a junkyard LS with a cam, intake and headers then?
I do my own work too, and LS is how I'd go. Could easily hit 400-450hp for under $5000 with the transmission included by finding the right donor.
Really? I rebuilt upgraded my OEM L-82 355 for about $5K with AFR 180 heads, Howards Roller cam, JE forged Racing pistons/rings, AND had all the machine work for the boring the cylinders, cleaning the block, new bearings, reconditioning the rods and crank by the machine shop...I assembled the rest including the cam, heads, intake, distributor etc....$5K for parts and builder labor.....
What happened to the forged 383 crank you first listed???
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ariba (01-03-2018)
#32
Le Mans Master
Here is what I said in post #11:
As Joe said above ^, since you already have the 350 engine AND you can do some of the work yourself, building your current motor is the way to go with some high quality components which could net you close to 500 Gross Hp with a 355 or 383, either one. However, the crate 350/290 Gross HP is a bit of disaster with a 4 bolt main, cast pistons with 8:1 compression, the L-82 cam which is totally mismatched with an 8:1 compression, and the 1.94/1.50 cylinder heads. You would need to change pistons, Very good flowing aluminum heads, roller cam, and performance intake, all of which could be done easily for under 5K and net you 400+ Gross HP. Change the crank to a forged 383 stroker and you will hit 500+ Gross HP easily with better heads and higher lift roller cam.
Post #20 I said what I have:
Really? I rebuilt upgraded my OEM L-82 355 for about $5K with AFR 180 heads, Howards Roller cam, JE forged Racing pistons/rings, AND had all the machine work for the boring the cylinders, cleaning the block, new bearings, reconditioning the rods and crank by the machine shop...I assembled the rest including the cam, heads, intake, distributor etc....$5K for parts and builder labor.....
I don't see any reference to a forged 383 crank that I have...................355
As Joe said above ^, since you already have the 350 engine AND you can do some of the work yourself, building your current motor is the way to go with some high quality components which could net you close to 500 Gross Hp with a 355 or 383, either one. However, the crate 350/290 Gross HP is a bit of disaster with a 4 bolt main, cast pistons with 8:1 compression, the L-82 cam which is totally mismatched with an 8:1 compression, and the 1.94/1.50 cylinder heads. You would need to change pistons, Very good flowing aluminum heads, roller cam, and performance intake, all of which could be done easily for under 5K and net you 400+ Gross HP. Change the crank to a forged 383 stroker and you will hit 500+ Gross HP easily with better heads and higher lift roller cam.
Post #20 I said what I have:
Really? I rebuilt upgraded my OEM L-82 355 for about $5K with AFR 180 heads, Howards Roller cam, JE forged Racing pistons/rings, AND had all the machine work for the boring the cylinders, cleaning the block, new bearings, reconditioning the rods and crank by the machine shop...I assembled the rest including the cam, heads, intake, distributor etc....$5K for parts and builder labor.....
I don't see any reference to a forged 383 crank that I have...................355
Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-03-2018 at 03:39 PM.
#33
Le Mans Master
I'd focus on performance goals and derive the budget from there.
You can throw $5,000 away pretty quick. If you know what is needed to increase the performance of your 290hp engine (as well as DURABILITY), then you will know if improvement or replacement is best way to reach your goals.
As an example, I spent close to $2,500 in 2013-14 to refresh the top end of my tired L48 (rebuilt in 1999). $700 to recondition the heads, about $1,100 for a retro roller conversion, $250 for ultra pro magnum rockers, and with the remaining misc items.
Fast-forward to today. My engine burns oil (it burnt LESS after the refresh but still burns oil). I figure re-ring. So, instead of having it machined, bored, rings, pistons, I opted for a 1980-85 truck short block for $1350 delivered. It has 4-bolt block, forged crank, moly rings, hypereutectic pistons, stock powdered metal connecting rods, and good bearings. I figure I will have $4,000 (since 2013) when all is said. My heads are DART Iron Eagles and I got them for around $1,000 back in 2004). Considering what I paid for my cylinder heads and all the other stuff mentioned above (and a few items I haven't), I am in the ballpark of $5,000. It is a 375hp/400tq build; comparable to what you get when you drop $3,500 for a Blueprint Motors 355ci roller engine (1-pc RMS). If it were me and considering improving or replacing, the Blueprint 355 (or 383) is worth considering.
My point is, with your 290hp engine, you have cast crank, cast pistons and 4-bolt block. If the engine is not burning oil or having issues, add, headers, heads, carb, intake, roller conversion and you will have spent another $4,000 to boost your cast crank/cast piston engine performance but you may have durability yet to address.
Whether you build-up or replace, you will buy the headers, carb and intake.
Heads and roller conversion can be had with a crate engine.
Weigh your options and be sure you have all cost items covered and your path will be clear.
You can throw $5,000 away pretty quick. If you know what is needed to increase the performance of your 290hp engine (as well as DURABILITY), then you will know if improvement or replacement is best way to reach your goals.
As an example, I spent close to $2,500 in 2013-14 to refresh the top end of my tired L48 (rebuilt in 1999). $700 to recondition the heads, about $1,100 for a retro roller conversion, $250 for ultra pro magnum rockers, and with the remaining misc items.
Fast-forward to today. My engine burns oil (it burnt LESS after the refresh but still burns oil). I figure re-ring. So, instead of having it machined, bored, rings, pistons, I opted for a 1980-85 truck short block for $1350 delivered. It has 4-bolt block, forged crank, moly rings, hypereutectic pistons, stock powdered metal connecting rods, and good bearings. I figure I will have $4,000 (since 2013) when all is said. My heads are DART Iron Eagles and I got them for around $1,000 back in 2004). Considering what I paid for my cylinder heads and all the other stuff mentioned above (and a few items I haven't), I am in the ballpark of $5,000. It is a 375hp/400tq build; comparable to what you get when you drop $3,500 for a Blueprint Motors 355ci roller engine (1-pc RMS). If it were me and considering improving or replacing, the Blueprint 355 (or 383) is worth considering.
My point is, with your 290hp engine, you have cast crank, cast pistons and 4-bolt block. If the engine is not burning oil or having issues, add, headers, heads, carb, intake, roller conversion and you will have spent another $4,000 to boost your cast crank/cast piston engine performance but you may have durability yet to address.
Whether you build-up or replace, you will buy the headers, carb and intake.
Heads and roller conversion can be had with a crate engine.
Weigh your options and be sure you have all cost items covered and your path will be clear.
Last edited by TedH; 01-03-2018 at 04:06 PM.
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MotorHead (01-03-2018)
#36
Race Director
The only 500HP 350ci I have ever seen are at car shows where just about every one has one.
If you want a 500hp engine then you need cubes and nothing under a 406ci engine is going to get you get you there. Sure I can build a 550HP 350ci but the car will only be good for the dragstrip.
A 500hp 406ci is going to blow your budget. I had a 400HP 350 ci in my car once and it was a blast to drive and you don't need to buy exotic parts.
The good cheap cast stuff is out there like Scat or Eagle but I would look at the Scat stuff first with with SpeedPro pro pistons
If you want a 500hp engine then you need cubes and nothing under a 406ci engine is going to get you get you there. Sure I can build a 550HP 350ci but the car will only be good for the dragstrip.
A 500hp 406ci is going to blow your budget. I had a 400HP 350 ci in my car once and it was a blast to drive and you don't need to buy exotic parts.
The good cheap cast stuff is out there like Scat or Eagle but I would look at the Scat stuff first with with SpeedPro pro pistons
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ariba (02-04-2018)
#37
.
5000.00 500HP is not going to get it done, Everything Scat or Eagle will have to be remachined to make right-period.
Last edited by Vortecpro; 01-03-2018 at 09:21 PM.
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ariba (02-04-2018)
#38
Le Mans Master
Take a ride in a 400 h.p c3 Corvette then come back and readress your request.
I run drag radials on mine and it still has traction issues.
I run drag radials on mine and it still has traction issues.
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ariba (01-03-2018)
#39
Race Director
Some advice: You talk a lot about parts...........you might want to start thinking about the machinist who will have fix those aftermarket parts to make them right
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5000.00 500HP is not going to get it done, Everything Scat or Eagle will have to be remachined to make right-period.
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5000.00 500HP is not going to get it done, Everything Scat or Eagle will have to be remachined to make right-period.
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ariba (01-03-2018)
#40
Instructor
Thread Starter
I got it 5K will not bring me 500 H.P
500 H.P + is more important than saving and cutting corners
I will pray it will not go above 8K.
Any person how had a 500 H.P + engine and did cost him under 8K. Please let me know and share your mods and cost with us
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63mako (01-03-2018)