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myself or buy finished? So many options.....Any suggestions?
A custom hood is, almost by definition, a one-off. You, or someone you hire will have to build it.
SUGGESTIONS:
Decide whether you are going to use your existing hood or use another one to customize. I suggest a donor hood because these projects ALWAYS take longer than anticipated and you may like to drive your vette while the project is underway. I also suggest using a GM hood, not an aftermarket - you have some idea of what your getting with a stock GM, with aftermarket, not so much.
Before you physically start your project, define it. Measure and lay it out on the hood. Sit down and determine your measurement reference points. Determine exactly what methods you are going to use at each step - how you are going to make your design happen. Many projects go awry because there is a "and then you know" in the planning and conception.
Finally, materials and methods. It may be easier to produce some of your details off of the hood. If there are several similar features, I may behoove you to create molds to produce them, to be sure that each is the same (trying to do this freehand on the hood is VERY difficult and frustrating). In all of the bodywork I have done (among other things, insetting a slim, fabricated LED 3rd brake light flush into the rear end of the roof of my 77) I have used West Marine epoxy in conjunction with their 410 filler and fiberglass mat. I've had no adhesion problems and the epoxy/filler mixture sands easily and is durable.
In a project such as this, it is easy to produce an unsymmetrical organic blob. It is much more difficult to actually produce the end result you are envisioning.
Great answers, Thanx. What about installing a fake air grabber. Is it an easy application on the factory hood? My hood has a couple of cracks and a bubble in the center and I would like to make it look factory if I can't decide on a custom hood.
Rotunda has it right about having a second hood. Mine took me 18 months with a 9 month break in the middle and lots of other interuptions. The started point was putting a long stud in the carb and gently lowering the hood, marking the center of engine on the hood. That is when I found out that the engine is offset about an inch towards the passenger side. T
If your car is not one that will be sought after by those looking only for "original" condition vehicles, modify your hood. As mentioned, when you get done it will fit better than ANY aftermarket hood.
P.S. Before you remove your hood (assuming it fits very well), drill a 1/8" hole through each of the hood latch flanges and just through the hood mounting surface . When you reset the hood to the car, re-align the hood using two 1/8" drills or two short pieces of 1/8" drill rod thru those drilled holes. Then you can just bolt it down and remove the alignment rods.
It's not all that difficult. I probably have about 12 total hours in this.
That is the look I want with a custom intake color. So I can buy this hood in primer and paint to my liking? How expensive are they? I wish I could buy one in Georgia.
Or you can buy just the "stinger" add-on duct and mount it to your hood. Drill a few small holes (in the right places, of course). Mount it to the hood and head down the road....
That is the look I want with a custom intake color. So I can buy this hood in primer and paint to my liking? How expensive are they? I wish I could buy one in Georgia.
I don't know if you can buy one or not. I added the stinger scoop to a stock hood... and it takes a little more effort than drilling a few holes.
A friend and I did the raised cowl hood on the 74 in my 'member pic'. Started with a 77 hood and cut the sides, added in 2 inches and glue, grind, fiberglass back together. Had to add in an extension to the top to get the back of raised scoop to match the edge of hood. But it came out fine. You can buy a hood that looks like it also, but more expensive and less educational!! Helped that my friend knew a LOT more about fiberglass work than I did!! Good luck.
THE SHORT VERSION OF THE INSTALL: based on my 85 install.
Measure how much extra hood clearance you need. If the carb is close to the hood just put the top of the air cleaner on the carb. (use a 1/4 0- 20 bolt to hold the top) Put PLAY DOUGH on the top of the carb and close the hood. The play-dough will tell you how far from the hood your air cleaner top is. Measure the thickness for the clearance.
The scoop comes 2 different heights - choose according to the clearance you need. Subtract the thickness of the play-dough from the total desired additional clearance. I needed the taller 427 scoop - an exact copy of the original - for my car due to the curve of the hood and the air cleaner base almost touching the underside of the hood.
Drill a hole for the stud for the sir cleaner in the hood - the play-dough should have given you the location and clearance.
Decide if you want the hood centered on the hood or slightly off center. I offset the scoop 1/4 inch due to the engine off set, to use a 16" air cleaner.
Cut a cardboard templet the shape of the underside of the scoop, such that the scoop covers the entire cardboard templet.
Decide the size of the air cleaner and use the air cleaner stud to draw a circle or whatever air cleaner shape on the hood. Drill just inside the circle and cut the hole 1/4" larger on all sides so the air cleaner sticks out of the hood (if desired).
Take blue tape and make a grid on the hood, slightly larger than the foot print of the scoop. ( like a plaid shirt)
Put the hood scoop on the hood and tape it in position, with the cardboard under it. Look from all sides and check the level of the hood scoop. When satisfied with the look, tape the cardboard templet to the hood.
Due to the curve of the hood I had to cut the side of the hood scoop the match the curve of the hood. I took a flat marker and slid it along the hood to transfer the hood shape to the side of the scoop.
I then ground the sides of the scoop to match the contour of the hood. I used a 3" drum sander on a drill.
When satisfied with the fit, double check the fit again. If satisfied tape the scoop to the hood, measure to the grid and mark the grid with the dimensions to the scoop. Use the tape on the scoop to make reference points for the measurements.
Remove the scoop leaving the cardboard templet. Mark the hood around the templet. and roughen up the area where the hood is marked - approximately 1/2 inch outside the templet line and 1" inside the templet.
Clean the scoop and roughen up the sides to insure a good bond. (inside and out)
I used car hair - resin with chopped glass to bond the scoop to the hood. Shape it the best you can. Let it dry. When dry sand the bond line - inside and out to smooth the line. Now using cat hair again form the filet on the inside and outside of the hood. When dry sand and shape the fillet to shape. Then use 1 to 2 coats of thickened resin to smooth the bond lines and finish with Bondo and sanding.
Now sand and prep for paint.
West systems has a great site for info on build ing with fiberglass and may help if you are new to glass work.
01-28-2018, 06:10 AM
