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I bought and installed the GMMP accessories and belt drive recommended. As Gordon predicted, I think the power steering pulley will hit the upper A arm. I’m going to order the smaller Jeep power steering pulley Gordon used. I hope that fixes the problem, without having to toss this GM alternator/ power steering bracket, like Gordo did. Any recommendations.
I bought and installed the GMMP accessories and belt drive recommended. As Gordon predicted, I think the power steering pulley will hit the upper A arm. I’m going to order the smaller Jeep power steering pulley Gordon used. I hope that fixes the problem, without having to toss this GM alternator/ power steering bracket, like Gordo did. Any recommendations.
I check in here occasionally. I am so jealous of all that shiny new aluminum. Not sure how to clean mine with all that wiring exposed.
But that's not the reason for this post. You might want to consider re-orienting your thermostat housing if you are installing a spreader bar. After determining that the straight outlet wouldn't clear, I cut mine carefully on my table saw and had it pointing down to duck under the bar.
While I'm here, adjustable upper A-arms mean no shims and more clearance, both sides. You can see that also in the picture.
The spring loaded tensioners were known to be the cause of throwing belts occasionally. On the earlier versions the lips on the plastic pulley was much smaller. In later revisions they made the lips taller. This is only a problem if you drive aggressively like tracking or auto crossing the car. There used to be a great video on You Tube of a guy who had a camera pointed at his belt and you could see the wild vibrations in the belt while he was auto crossing (on and off the throttle). Katech was one of the first companies to address the problem. Now there are many copies of the design out there and much cheaper.
The spring loaded tensioners were known to be the cause of throwing belts occasionally. On the earlier versions the lips on the plastic pulley was much smaller. In later revisions they made the lips taller. This is only a problem if you drive aggressively like tracking or auto crossing the car. There used to be a great video on You Tube of a guy who had a camera pointed at his belt and you could see the wild vibrations in the belt while he was auto crossing (on and off the throttle). Katech was one of the first companies to address the problem. Now there are many copies of the design out there and much cheaper.
OK, thanks I'll take a look at what I have. However in auto crossing either of two cars have not had an incident such as you describe.
I took some very precise measurements today, ok I used a tape measure, so not so precise. The distance from the water pump midpoint to the outside of the power steering pulley is 13.5”.
The distance from the middle of my water pump in the car to the a arm is 13 1/2”. So with a smaller ps pulley, I should be ok. I keep forgetting that the engine sits over an inch or two toward the passenger side. The measurement from mid water pump to passenger a arm is only 12”.
This might help. My motor dropped onto the chassis with about 1" clearance either side. Of course it also depends on what adapters and motor mounts you are using but it this thing was any lower everything would hit.
I finished the tear down today. Like I said, the LS engine is different. The engine is tight, even after 7000 miles. It was very difficult to rotate the engine with pistons, rods, and Cam. But after removing the pistons, rods, and camshaft, it still took 60 lb ft to rotate the crank. There are six bolts for every main cap! Take a look at the rod bearings and the crank main bearings. It doesn’t look like the other rod bearings were going to last long. The middle main cap has a larger bearing like what is usually in the back of a gen 1 small block. Is the thrust bearing in the middle of the block?!!!! The two rods that discolored don’t look bad! Can they be reconditioned? The crank looks great except where the rod bearings spun. My next step is to see if the crank can be saved and repaired, and the same for the two rods. Then I’ll have the block lightly honed and cleaned. Look at the tiny rod bolts.
From what I can see you are going to have nothing but problems with that engine, look how hot the crank got at the opposite end of the spun bearings, all of the mains are fried, and the line bore is not right based on the 60 foot pounds needed to spin it in the block. I wouldn't use that engine for your build, you are throwing good money after bad IMO.
Cut your losses and get rid of that thing.
Hi guys. I'm going to be lazy and just cut and paste what I just posted on the C6 Z06 forum.
Bee Jay
Thanks for all of the positive comments guys. I started the tear down and got the heads, oil pan, and oil pump off. Like I said, I'm new to this LS stuff. I've been very impressed with my 200,000 mile GMC 6.0 liter truck. But losing this LS7 in less than a couple of weeks had me doubting. I've done several small blocks, I built my 79 L-82 into a 383 LT4 Hot Cam killer, and I've done a 454 big block. But this is my first LS engine build. You can see the 5 & 6 rod caps are discolored, and you can see what the spinning of the rod bearings did to the crank. Can the crank be repaired? Can the two discolored rods be saved. Stupid Question: How do you rotate the crank?
In short on your crank who knows... You'll have to get it to a machine shop to see if it can be turned.
I bought and installed the GMMP accessories and belt drive recommended. As Gordon predicted, I think the power steering pulley will hit the upper A arm. I’m going to order the smaller Jeep power steering pulley Gordon used. I hope that fixes the problem, without having to toss this GM alternator/ power steering bracket, like Gordo did. Any recommendations.
beejay, i 2nd the dirty dingo pulley if the other didn't work out. Also, some do worry about the p/s pump spinning faster with the smaller pulley. There is a simple install kit to reduce the pressure output of the pump. I think the ls swap mustang guys use it. I installed it in mine with no issues at all now that it's back on the road. My water pump was pretty close to the pass. control arm (mine are stock).
Some guys have tied the steam line back into the water pump. Some tie into the upper radiator hose (which i did) or go into the radiator.
I’m thinking that a smaller ps pulley will make it ok. The Jeep pulley is only about $29, the fancy Dingo pulley is about $100. I should wait and see when I install the engine this Spring. But this is a known problem, and I should replace the pulley now.
I tried the jeep pulley as others have done but it wouldn't line up either the rest of the accessories. I think there was another pulley option out there too. I could've had the hub milled down slightly because it wasn't too far off. I'm not sure why mine was off compared to others. At first i was using a c6 alt/ps bracket (was told by cic it was holley) but then i bought a holley bracket.
I took some very precise measurements today, ok I used a tape measure, so not so precise. The distance from the water pump midpoint to the outside of the power steering pulley is 13.5”.
The distance from the middle of my water pump in the car to the a arm is 13 1/2”. So with a smaller ps pulley, I should be ok. I keep forgetting that the engine sits over an inch or two toward the passenger side. The measurement from mid water pump to passenger a arm is only 12”.
I'm installing an aluminum p/s pump I got off a Jeep. I had to swap a vee-pulley onto the pump to work with the other belts and pulleys, but FWIW the Jeep serpentine pulley was 5 3/8" OD.
I took some very precise measurements today, ok I used a tape measure, so not so precise. The distance from the water pump midpoint to the outside of the power steering pulley is 13.5”.
The distance from the middle of my water pump in the car to the a arm is 13 1/2”. So with a smaller ps pulley, I should be ok. I keep forgetting that the engine sits over an inch or two toward the passenger side. The measurement from mid water pump to passenger a arm is only 12”.
That is what I measure from water pump to my control arm. Where the belt goes is where the nut that holds the arm to the frame so you have even less room than you think.
Have a look:
And obviously I cut that bolt flush. If you need room for shims, you'll need some more threads.
My MSD LS controller finally arrived after two months on back order! Not ready for it yet though. Very impressive kit. Typical of my experience with MSD, the instructions are only adequate. Any excellent instructions/manuals here on setting up, installing, and operating this bad boy? I especially need a tach out to operate my Sniper Carb Replacement FI and tachometer. Edit: I read thru the instructions again. There is a gray wire out if the 10 pin connector that is “Tach Output”. I guess I’ll need to read them a few more times. Now to find a good set of coils with harness.
I read the instructions to this MSD ignition controller a few more times, and I watched a few u tube videos. Then I hooked up the unit to my laptop after downloading MSDs software.
WOW! This unit is pretty impressive. I was looking for a simple ignition controller to make my Sniper fuel injection work, but this does much, much more. It has six pre programmed timing curves, and four customizable timing curves. It has a MAP sensor, so you can use vacuum to alter your advance, and it has a temp sensor, so it can adjust your timing according to engine temperature. I'm going to use the LS7 HO curve, and use the vacuum input for MAP, and the water temp sensor to take timing out when the engine gets to a certain temperature. Then after the engine is running, I'll play with it.
So, where is the best place to get a set of coils, plug wires, and coil harness. I've been cruising Summit and evil bay. GM has a kit with coils, harness, spark plug wires for about $432. What do you all think?
Bee Jay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-P...97.m4902.l9144
Ignatz. How did you mount that ps pulley? I thought the jeep pulley pressed right on. Did it align with the other pulleys ok?
Originally Posted by ignatz
That is what I measure from water pump to my control arm. Where the belt goes is where the nut that holds the arm to the frame so you have even less room than you think.
Have a look:
And obviously I cut that bolt flush. If you need room for shims, you'll need some more threads.
02-02-2019, 12:05 PM
