Rescue Rogers

I like to take pics first so I can get it back together again,


Note which arms go where



The shifter has a C clip on the side and a self locking clip like the rods do, I pull both of those off and set them aside. Be careful as the C clip shot across the room on me
Side C clip removed



knock the pin out. I bought the alignment tool, Its great for this as well as assembly



slide it out keeping it together so you can see which sliders go where and where the reverse gear shim is



pull the clip in the back and knockout the pin






layout everything and replace all the used parts with new.

I like to dry assemble everything to make sure I get it right, then pull it apart and lube it up. I put a very thin coat of bearing grease on all the sliding surfaces so as to not attract dirt

reassemble the shifter and housing






stack all the new linkage arms on the assembly tool in the correct order then align them to slide into the main housing






pull the assembly tool out and hold everything together so they can be slipped back into the main housing

When you insert the shift linkage assembly into the main housing , insert the shifter and the shift arm in the neutral gate




line it up an insert the alignment tool in the smaller of the 2 holes in the housing, one side is small and the other is larger for the axle to sit in





push the tool out with the axle and your all set

disassemble, , lube very lightly then reassemble and you're ready for the C clip.
I put it in place, used a pair of long needle nose pliers in the center of the axle and then covered it with a rag so it didn't shoot across them room again

One the clip is in re install the shift rods, Its a hassle to put the clips in them under the car when the shifter is bolted in

once you install the shifter , its easy to adjust the neutral gate with the tool described in the earlier posts. Its a little bit of a hassle to get it into the slot, but if you leave the rods disconnected from the transmission until you insert the tool, you can wiggle the arms, it will slide in okay

VancouverL71

Hey Rescue,
Thanks for this separate post on the shifter rebuild with all the pictures. This will make the rebuild fairly straight forward I think. I will order the rebuild kit and find a piece of aluminium and fabricate the alignment tool for when setting up the shifter rods into the lower short shift throw holes.
Pete

2mnyvets

Roger, You did a nice job of showing how to rebuild it. I am reattaching my previous post to add some places to look and address. Again, I could not find a good parts description for the components. If anybody has one, I'll edit out my descriptions to use the correct terminology.
Previous post elsewhere:
Sorry, I don't know the terminology, but I will describe the parts.

I rebuilt the linkage about 6 months ago. There was a fair amount of wear on the two step pin supplied with the rebuild kit but there was also wear in the holes of the shifter plates this pin fits through. I probably should reamed the holes back to round and had a new pin machined... but I didn't. The piece that blocks you from catching two gears and looks like the bottom of a rocking horse is thicker in the rebuild kit and crutches this wear by removing side to side play but you still have a vertical looseness.

On mine, The cradle (looks like the bottom of a rocking horse with both rockers) that holds the shifter plates was bent and twisted. I bent this back so that the holes were square and aligned side to side.

The stack up dimensions of the shifter plates and the shift blocker were .030 less than the space between the the inside of the cradle but when assembled they were tight probably due to the surfaces not being machined. I could not find any tolerance to hold so since it was tight, I left it.

The U that goes over the cradle was an slight interference so I assume that is good enough but I think I will make spacers that fit over the two stepped pin. I'll keep them about .005" less than the space between the bolt head and the U on one side and the support and the U on the other. This will eliminate the need for the C clip and prevent any deflection.

Finally, my shift shaft is loose in the shifter block. In other words, the round part that you move is loose in the square part with tang that moves the shifter plates. I have two shifters and both are loose so I assume yours is going to be too. I may try to weld this.

With all that, I still have about 1/4" of movement in both directions at the ball. The side to side slop is the size difference between the shifter tab and width of the shifter plates. The front to back is the gap between the inverted U and the block on the shifter handle where the shifter pivot pin is inserted. This space is about .020. I could shim that, but am concerned that the shifter movement would tear up the shim.

Hope this helps somebody.

2mnyvets

Google C2 Muncie Shifter. That thread identifies a rattling issue with the reverse block mechanism. They suggest using a matchbook cover as a shim. Not sure if the new handle in the rebuild kit addresses this. I am going to paint the inside of the mine with liquid electrical tape. The rubber product should take up some of the looseness and give me some dampening.

It identifies the loose handle mentioned above. They suggest welding. I welded mine last week and removed about 1/2 of the play in the shifter. Note that you MUST keep the weld flush with rectangular block or the handle cannot be installed.

Rescue Rogers

my shifter is easy to move left and right while in nuetral which could be considered slop by some. The hurst shifter has a spring whcich keeps it positioned in the 3-4 nuetral path. Thats the only thing I've noticed so far but I havent had it on the road yet either


I cant find that thread about the matchbook

2mnyvets

I cant find that thread about the matchbook[/QUOTE]

I googled shifter and forums and found it. It was a 3/2011 post.
Thought it would be easy to find through "Search Forums", but tried it and had to go 19 pages back to find it. Here is the link:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...muncie+shifter

VancouverL71

Hey Rescue.
Just finished up my shifter and wanted to say Thanks for taking the time to post this. Rebuild was one of the easier things I have tackled so far but what was very surprising to me was how tight it feels now. What I thought was slop in the actual transmission linkage was just the shifter itself.
Anyone not sure if it is worth the time and effort, it absolutely is and if it is already out of the car, pay the 50 bucks for the major rebuild kit, it is really worth the money.
Pete

Tim69L46

Thank you. Nicely done!

marshal135

Great write up!

Rescue Rogers

thanks