Help settle SBC RPM limit debate I have...
#21
If no other changes have been made to improve the valve train or bottom end, I think it would be unwise to go beyond 6,500.
#22
Team Owner
Overall this is a worthless post. When I was younger and bought stock motored cars I used to get so sick of how most models had such a lack of HP. So I would build a hopped up version and just take the old motor out for a last ride before retiring them.
I found that stock Chevy's with a bunch of miles and years could not spin their self fast enough to blow up. I would drive with my foot on the floor in first gear and try and pop the motor.
It is a combination of poor flowing intake track, small valves, small CFM of flow, weak springs with heavy rotator cups, and a Cam without enough lift or duration. It makes for a motor if dynoed, would have peak power at a relatively low rpm and drop off to hardly any power above that. It is a self limiting max rpm and it has little if any power at higher rpm. So it can't blow up.
Now with big flow intakes, heads, cams they are making high HP at high rpm and that is when you are going to fail the weakest link. I have personally broken crank shafts. (nice forged aftermarket) Valve train failure with AFR heads.
If you own a stock type motor it is out of power below the listed red line. so a smarter person shifts
I found that stock Chevy's with a bunch of miles and years could not spin their self fast enough to blow up. I would drive with my foot on the floor in first gear and try and pop the motor.
It is a combination of poor flowing intake track, small valves, small CFM of flow, weak springs with heavy rotator cups, and a Cam without enough lift or duration. It makes for a motor if dynoed, would have peak power at a relatively low rpm and drop off to hardly any power above that. It is a self limiting max rpm and it has little if any power at higher rpm. So it can't blow up.
Now with big flow intakes, heads, cams they are making high HP at high rpm and that is when you are going to fail the weakest link. I have personally broken crank shafts. (nice forged aftermarket) Valve train failure with AFR heads.
If you own a stock type motor it is out of power below the listed red line. so a smarter person shifts
#23
A rough rule of thumb is 6000 rpm. You never want to let the valves float. When the valves float they are uncontrolled and can pull through their retainers or get hit by the piston. In all cases valve float is very hard on the engine. Fyi a stock 400 with stock cam is not making any power after 5000 rpm so no point in reving higher then 5000 rpm.
As for a stock 400 since this was never a high output engine I assume it was never cammed to shift the power band up, so as someone else pointed out, beyond low to mid 4000's rpm, nothing is gained. e.g. L81 which was the standard engine in 1980, peaked out at 4,200 rpm.
Last edited by vince vette 2; 03-07-2018 at 12:00 PM. Reason: additional info
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Overall this is a worthless post. When I was younger and bought stock motored cars I used to get so sick of how most models had such a lack of HP. So I would build a hopped up version and just take the old motor out for a last ride before retiring them.
I found that stock Chevy's with a bunch of miles and years could not spin their self fast enough to blow up. I would drive with my foot on the floor in first gear and try and pop the motor.
It is a combination of poor flowing intake track, small valves, small CFM of flow, weak springs with heavy rotator cups, and a Cam without enough lift or duration. It makes for a motor if dynoed, would have peak power at a relatively low rpm and drop off to hardly any power above that. It is a self limiting max rpm and it has little if any power at higher rpm. So it can't blow up.
Now with big flow intakes, heads, cams they are making high HP at high rpm and that is when you are going to fail the weakest link. I have personally broken crank shafts. (nice forged aftermarket) Valve train failure with AFR heads.
If you own a stock type motor it is out of power below the listed red line. so a smarter person shifts
I found that stock Chevy's with a bunch of miles and years could not spin their self fast enough to blow up. I would drive with my foot on the floor in first gear and try and pop the motor.
It is a combination of poor flowing intake track, small valves, small CFM of flow, weak springs with heavy rotator cups, and a Cam without enough lift or duration. It makes for a motor if dynoed, would have peak power at a relatively low rpm and drop off to hardly any power above that. It is a self limiting max rpm and it has little if any power at higher rpm. So it can't blow up.
Now with big flow intakes, heads, cams they are making high HP at high rpm and that is when you are going to fail the weakest link. I have personally broken crank shafts. (nice forged aftermarket) Valve train failure with AFR heads.
If you own a stock type motor it is out of power below the listed red line. so a smarter person shifts
It’s not a totally stock motor just BOTTOM end
Top is VORTEC heads, nice intake carb and exhaust
And I started this post to settle a pretty heated argument so it’s not worthless to me
Last edited by Averystingray75; 03-07-2018 at 06:00 PM.
#25
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: Southern Cal Ca
Posts: 50,463
Received 762 Likes
on
613 Posts
St. Jude Donor '22
in stock form a 327 will spin higher safer than a 383.
as stated earlier, weight of rotating parts.
even say a sbc 427 with hardened assembly can spin higher than i would ever
reach.
as far as floating before exploding, i have heard that
idea.
tough call.
as stated earlier, weight of rotating parts.
even say a sbc 427 with hardened assembly can spin higher than i would ever
reach.
as far as floating before exploding, i have heard that
idea.
tough call.
#27
You could play GM, build two, and let one grenade. Even then the other might grenade lower or higher due to production differences.
#28
Race Director
I thought of a funny thing I overheard as a kid in a speed shop, frustrated the engine builder said: keep revving the engine slowly until it blows, right down the RPM and then set the rev limiter 300 - 500 below that. Rebuild the engine with the same parts and you should be good. (1968ish)
The owner had said he did not want to leave and HP on the table.
The engine builder had told the guy to set the rev limiter at 6000 rpm on his 67 - 327 corvette, I almost peed my self.
The owner had said he did not want to leave and HP on the table.
The engine builder had told the guy to set the rev limiter at 6000 rpm on his 67 - 327 corvette, I almost peed my self.
Last edited by BLUE1972; 03-07-2018 at 08:55 PM. Reason: hate auto spell
#29
Team Owner
The vortec heads from everything I can find are worth 25- 40 HP over older heads which is really nothing when held back by a stock low performance 400 h-flat cam and some low compression dished stock pistons.
Rpm + HP can break the bottom end, but if you are past peak power a TQ things drop off pretty fast especially the more CI you are feeding.
400's were never hot rods because of the cam and compression. so GM never put good internal parts in them
I'm not sure how you can have a heated argument over a motor that generally came in 1500 pickup trucks. your changes make for some more TQ than a 350 just be happy
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
Here’s the argument in a nutshell:
I said if i went out to my car right now and with engine warmed up held the throttle to the floor and never let up ...
- my prediction rpm will continue to increase but slow down higher in the rpm range probably around 6-7k and after a few minuets something in the bottom end will break, rod cap bolts, piston to rod connectors but with way a rod will go through the block.
- his prediction: the rpm will stop pretty low and the valves will “float” and rpm will not increase past that point the heads valves or etc will either fail or sit there and nothing else will happen eventuallly the engine will overheat or oil flow will case some an issue at that point but effectively I could hold the gas pedal down for quite some time and the heads will limit the bottom end from exploding.
So who’s right?
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
To respond to gkull:
My vortec heads casting number 10239906,
Came off ‘95 Chevy k1500
What heads are you talking about?!
Only “vortec” heads I know of to fit this gen sbc ends in ‘906 or ‘062
My vortec heads casting number 10239906,
Came off ‘95 Chevy k1500
What heads are you talking about?!
Only “vortec” heads I know of to fit this gen sbc ends in ‘906 or ‘062
#32
Instructor
the 100% way to end this argument is just go do it.
let us know how it turns out.
let us know how it turns out.
Here’s the argument in a nutshell:
I said if i went out to my car right now and with engine warmed up held the throttle to the floor and never let up ...
- my prediction rpm will continue to increase but slow down higher in the rpm range probably around 6-7k and after a few minuets something in the bottom end will break, rod cap bolts, piston to rod connectors but with way a rod will go through the block.
- his prediction: the rpm will stop pretty low and the valves will “float” and rpm will not increase past that point the heads valves or etc will either fail or sit there and nothing else will happen eventuallly the engine will overheat or oil flow will case some an issue at that point but effectively I could hold the gas pedal down for quite some time and the heads will limit the bottom end from exploding.
So who’s right?
I said if i went out to my car right now and with engine warmed up held the throttle to the floor and never let up ...
- my prediction rpm will continue to increase but slow down higher in the rpm range probably around 6-7k and after a few minuets something in the bottom end will break, rod cap bolts, piston to rod connectors but with way a rod will go through the block.
- his prediction: the rpm will stop pretty low and the valves will “float” and rpm will not increase past that point the heads valves or etc will either fail or sit there and nothing else will happen eventuallly the engine will overheat or oil flow will case some an issue at that point but effectively I could hold the gas pedal down for quite some time and the heads will limit the bottom end from exploding.
So who’s right?
#33
Instructor
Thread Starter
It got to that point honestly he said he would replace the engine $
But it’s a ‘509 block and really hard to get these days
And I’m Worried about my front clip aftermarket C3 Vette Ecklers body kits discontinued the fiberglass work to fix a scar is more than the engine is worth
I’m super confident a rod will puncture the engine block but I don’t think my friend has the $$$ to back up the disagreement considering if I’m
Right it would be thousands of dollars of damage
That’s why I’m consulting you guys to get some positive real world feedback because at the end of the day... I’m not gonna take this bet and potentially ruin thousands of dollars of car parts
#34
#36
#37
Race Director
Too bad myth busters is no longer running...
#38
Drifting
I thought of a funny thing I overheard as a kid in a speed shop, frustrated the engine builder said: keep revving the engine slowly until it blows, right down the RPM and then set the rev limiter 300 - 500 below that. Rebuild the engine with the same parts and you should be good. (1968ish)
"Tighten one until it snaps, then replace that one and don't tighten the others quite that tight". Of course he was joking but had the same message.
#39
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
You claim you've spun the engine to 6000rpm so how can any claim that the rpm will stop climbing at some low value have any merit? You would definitely be running it over 6000rpm if you did the test.
So, the engine WILL be over 6000rpm. At that point, a rod might let go, the crank might break or a piston might fail. But, the bottom end might also stay together just fine until you decide to lift or the valvetrain fails.
You can't know unless you do it.
So, the engine WILL be over 6000rpm. At that point, a rod might let go, the crank might break or a piston might fail. But, the bottom end might also stay together just fine until you decide to lift or the valvetrain fails.
You can't know unless you do it.
The following users liked this post:
Big2Bird (03-09-2018)
#40
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
valve float can happen before you hear it, if you dont have an "ear" for it get a rev limiter
I wouldnt run a stock 400 bottom end over 5500. No reason to with a tiny head anyway
If your engine is nosing over at 4500 for instance theres no point in
I wouldnt run a stock 400 bottom end over 5500. No reason to with a tiny head anyway
If your engine is nosing over at 4500 for instance theres no point in