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FWIW, whacking the spindle where "Peterbuilt" noted, with the red X, is indeed what you do, to loosen the tapered stud, from the tapered hole. HOWEVER, it is 1000% easier to do this, with the spindle/a-arm assembly still installed in the car, and with the ball joint LOOSENED, but with the nut still 4-5 threads on to the stud.
This works, because the shock of the hammer, combined with the force of the car's coil spring against the lower control arm, will release the stud from the spindle. The nut being in place, prevents the whole deal from exploding apart in your face.
But it does NOT work. The stud faces down going through the spindle so the spring is pushing the stud into the spindle when the suspension is hanging, not trying to pull it out of the spindle.
But it does NOT work. The stud faces down going through the spindle so the spring is pushing the stud into the spindle when the suspension is hanging, not trying to pull it out of the spindle.
But it does NOT work. The stud faces down going through the spindle so the spring is pushing the stud into the spindle when the suspension is hanging, not trying to pull it out of the spindle.
Then put a jack under the wheel or brake rotor and take the spring load off the ball joint.
Don't hammer the threaded stud. Hammer the arm around the hole. You want to get vibration into the joint without any chance of "mushrooming" the threaded stud.
You might need to use a ball joint press set (available as a loaner at O'Reilly's or AutoZone), or a "cup type" ball joint separator that fits on the arm with a screw that presses the threaded stud through the hole. A fixed two jaw "pitman arm separator" that fits properly can also be used if you have one.
Heating the arm with a torch (MAP gas or even propane might be enough) also helps a lot. You want to expand the outer part, the arm, without putting much heat into the tapered threaded stud.
Last edited by C6_Racer_X; 03-10-2018 at 11:05 AM.
But it does NOT work. The stud faces down going through the spindle so the spring is pushing the stud into the spindle when the suspension is hanging, not trying to pull it out of the spindle.
I momentarily forgot that we're discussing a C-3, and it's opposite of other GM cars....
Originally Posted by derekderek
Then put a jack under the wheel or brake rotor and take the spring load off the ball joint.
Originally Posted by lionelhutz
No, that still pushes the joint together.
No, "Derek" is correct. The weight of the upper a-arm, combined with the weight of the spindle, will cause the stud to disengage, given a good whack......as long as the lower a-arm is properly and safely supported.
I never take them off the arm till popped! Best to use pneumatic gun with a fork when this happens, but not everyone has one! You want to put the pickle fork in there and smack that at the right angle of force naturally! Many guys like aluminum ones to not damage anything, but they can spread and are worthless! If my aluminum doesn't easily pop them, I grab the steel ones! Usually I pop the ball joint with the spring pressure still on the arm, but you have to know what you are doing safety wise! Pounding on the stud isn't good. A steel fork and a medium sledge should get it every time, or you have created a bigger problem! If so, a pneumatic gun then always the best! Phone a friend!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 03-10-2018 at 01:35 PM.
No, "Derek" is correct. The weight of the upper a-arm, combined with the weight of the spindle, will cause the stud to disengage, given a good whack......as long as the lower a-arm is properly and safely supported.
NO, NEITHER CLAIM WAS CORRECT.
Dereks claim was that jacking up on the wheel or brake rotor WILL put pressure on the joint pulling it apart. This was wrong because that forces the joint together.
Your claim was that the spring tries to pull the joint apart. This is wrong because the spring is pushing the joint in the same direction as the stud which means the spring can only push the joint together.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 03-10-2018 at 03:44 PM.
Don't hammer the threaded stud. Hammer the arm around the hole. You want to get vibration into the joint without any chance of "mushrooming" the threaded stud.
You might need to use a ball joint press set (available as a loaner at O'Reilly's or AutoZone), or a "cup type" ball joint separator that fits on the arm with a screw that presses the threaded stud through the hole. A fixed two jaw "pitman arm separator" that fits properly can also be used if you have one.
Heating the arm with a torch (MAP gas or even propane might be enough) also helps a lot. You want to expand the outer part, the arm, without putting much heat into the tapered threaded stud.
Beating on parts with a BFH is old school and usually works, but why not use the correct tool for the job. The front suspension tool kit I bought several years ago sits on the shelf most of the time, but when I need to remove something like the ball joint in this post, I remove it in a couple minutes without damaging the part, the rubber dust boot or my fingers, if I swing the hammer and miss.
I'll make one more slight correction to what I said earlier, and then I'm done with this "discussion".....place a jack under the spring pocket of the lower a-arm, and raise the jack, to take off some of the weight. Loosen the castle nut several turns, but not completely off the stud. Disengage the spindle from the ball joint, with a couple good whacks, and GRAVITY will drop the spindle from the ball joint......
Just wanted to update everyone I got it out
I bought the balljoint press above mentioned based on links and it popped out in 30 seconds
Which made the other side way easier which is good because I needed to remove and install a few times trying to get the new springs correct
Here's a tool that works pretty good, although I've never seen one that would not let go while hammering on the side of it. The hammer on the side shocks the taper and lets the stud loose.
This removal tool is what I do now after years of the pickle fork method. IT is so much easier and quick PLUS if you need to reuse the ball joint you do not eat the dust boot. Great tool.
I personally do not like hitting the spindle with a mallet...I did it once and something about marring up a 40 year old spindle does not sit well and the impacts DO leave marks on the spindle.
I have ‘75 corvette and bought new springs and
shocks for the front. While removing things I’m trying to remove my front drivers side LOWER ball joint and I can’t get it out of the Hub/spindle part. I’ve beat on the bottom with a hammer to try to drive it up through with no success. I followed instructions I’ve had this is the first time I’ve attempted this so what am I doing wrong here? Its defiantly ruined now so there’s no turning back
This is what it looks like bottom threaded part won’t budge is that normal? Boot is shredded.
I have a pickle fork but it doesn’t really seem to do anything I feel like I’m missing something here?
03-10-2018, 10:42 AM
Works good on the upper though.
