Help! Lower ball joint won’t come out
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Help! Lower ball joint won’t come out
I have ‘75 corvette and bought new springs and
shocks for the front. While removing things I’m trying to remove my front drivers side LOWER ball joint and I can’t get it out of the Hub/spindle part. I’ve beat on the bottom with a hammer to try to drive it up through with no success. I followed instructions I’ve had this is the first time I’ve attempted this so what am I doing wrong here? Its defiantly ruined now so there’s no turning back
This is what it looks like bottom threaded part won’t budge is that normal? Boot is shredded.
I have a pickle fork but it doesn’t really seem to do anything I feel like I’m missing something here?
shocks for the front. While removing things I’m trying to remove my front drivers side LOWER ball joint and I can’t get it out of the Hub/spindle part. I’ve beat on the bottom with a hammer to try to drive it up through with no success. I followed instructions I’ve had this is the first time I’ve attempted this so what am I doing wrong here? Its defiantly ruined now so there’s no turning back
This is what it looks like bottom threaded part won’t budge is that normal? Boot is shredded.
I have a pickle fork but it doesn’t really seem to do anything I feel like I’m missing something here?
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Peterbuilt;1596752078]Put the nut back on (loosely) and hit the X with a big hammer.
The threads are too mangled now for the nut to go back on
Why the x area what’s supposed to happen?
The threads are too mangled now for the nut to go back on
Why the x area what’s supposed to happen?
#5
Le Mans Master
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[QUOTE=Averystingray75;1596752114]
With the control arms and spring still installed hitting the X breaks the taper.
You leave the nut ON so you don't hurt yourself.
You leave the nut ON so you don't hurt yourself.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Peterbuilt;1596752139]Hmm yeah I removed it from the control arm already I tried that earlier but didn’t seem to do anything how hard do you gotta hit that spot?!
#7
Melting Slicks
Big hammer and pretty hard. Its not so much about how hard as how many times. I have hit some of these 50 times before they popped loose. Its easier with the ball joint still in the control arm, but I think you can still do it if you have some help. Get someone to keep pressure on the ball joint with the pickle fork while you hit the side of the spindle with the hammer.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: perth western australia
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The thread is gone so you say , I cant recall just how big the hole is so if you have hit it that hard and often to spread the shaft wider it might pay to grind it back a bit .
even better if you can hold another big hammer on the other side of the X ,by the handle though , helps to steady it and I think it makes the shock(hit) a bit bigger
even better if you can hold another big hammer on the other side of the X ,by the handle though , helps to steady it and I think it makes the shock(hit) a bit bigger
Last edited by bazza77; 03-09-2018 at 07:11 PM.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok so here’s a question:
How can I remove the upper balljoint safely? If I remove the hub I have a 20ton shop press and it’ll pop that sucker right through in a heartbeat
This a good route? I don’t wanna have the same problem with the upper one.
I’ve beat on the lower one now for a solid 30 min while applying pressure with pickle fork doesn’t seem to even think about budging and now the threaded end is a mushroom and I’ll probably have to grind it down as it is just to fit through.
Are they normally this hard?
FYI I went looking for a “balljoint press” and can’t find anything that will work in this particular application. Anyone have pics on one that will?
How can I remove the upper balljoint safely? If I remove the hub I have a 20ton shop press and it’ll pop that sucker right through in a heartbeat
This a good route? I don’t wanna have the same problem with the upper one.
I’ve beat on the lower one now for a solid 30 min while applying pressure with pickle fork doesn’t seem to even think about budging and now the threaded end is a mushroom and I’ll probably have to grind it down as it is just to fit through.
Are they normally this hard?
FYI I went looking for a “balljoint press” and can’t find anything that will work in this particular application. Anyone have pics on one that will?
#14
Le Mans Master
Here's a tool that works pretty good, although I've never seen one that would not let go while hammering on the side of it. The hammer on the side shocks the taper and lets the stud loose.
Try this https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Try this https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
#15
After breaking a few of the scissor types I tried my old mini splitter. And it worked! Since then Ive usrd it on a 67 mustang, 79 and 89 corvette, never took longer than 30 seconds to pop a balljoint out.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Accessories/Tools/660310.aspx?0108&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/660550.aspx Back%20to
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Accessories/Tools/660310.aspx?0108&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/660550.aspx Back%20to
#16
Melting Slicks
Ok so here’s a question:
How can I remove the upper balljoint safely? If I remove the hub I have a 20ton shop press and it’ll pop that sucker right through in a heartbeat
This a good route? I don’t wanna have the same problem with the upper one.
I’ve beat on the lower one now for a solid 30 min while applying pressure with pickle fork doesn’t seem to even think about budging and now the threaded end is a mushroom and I’ll probably have to grind it down as it is just to fit through.
Are they normally this hard?
FYI I went looking for a “balljoint press” and can’t find anything that will work in this particular application. Anyone have pics on one that will?
How can I remove the upper balljoint safely? If I remove the hub I have a 20ton shop press and it’ll pop that sucker right through in a heartbeat
This a good route? I don’t wanna have the same problem with the upper one.
I’ve beat on the lower one now for a solid 30 min while applying pressure with pickle fork doesn’t seem to even think about budging and now the threaded end is a mushroom and I’ll probably have to grind it down as it is just to fit through.
Are they normally this hard?
FYI I went looking for a “balljoint press” and can’t find anything that will work in this particular application. Anyone have pics on one that will?
#18
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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I've always had the best luck taking 2 big 3lb ball-peen hammers and hitting both sides of the X at the same time. It's a little tricky but it has always worked. I have hit a joint on one side 50 times without the joint releasing but hitting both sides at the same time has never taken more than 2 or 3 hits to get it to release.
If not that, do as suggested and back up the opposite side with the biggest sledge hammer head you have and then hit the other side with the next biggest hammer you have.
If you don't have a big sledge hammer to back it up while hitting it with a 3lb ball-peen hammer OR 2 x 3lb ball peen hammers to hit both sides at once then you need bigger hammers.
How hard do you hit it? AS HARD AS YOU CAN.
If not that, do as suggested and back up the opposite side with the biggest sledge hammer head you have and then hit the other side with the next biggest hammer you have.
If you don't have a big sledge hammer to back it up while hitting it with a 3lb ball-peen hammer OR 2 x 3lb ball peen hammers to hit both sides at once then you need bigger hammers.
How hard do you hit it? AS HARD AS YOU CAN.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 03-09-2018 at 10:37 PM.
#19
Team Owner
FWIW, whacking the spindle where "Peterbuilt" noted, with the red X, is indeed what you do, to loosen the tapered stud, from the tapered hole. HOWEVER, it is 1000% easier to do this, with the spindle/a-arm assembly still installed in the car, and with the ball joint LOOSENED, but with the nut still 4-5 threads on to the stud.
This works, because the shock of the hammer, combined with the force of the car's coil spring against the lower control arm, will release the stud from the spindle. The nut being in place, prevents the whole deal from exploding apart in your face.
After the stud is released, you can then support the lower a-arm with a jack, disconnect and support the spindle, and CAREFULLY lower the lower a-arm.
A ball joint press will NOT remove this stud from the spindle, but a "pickle fork" MAY do the job.....
This works, because the shock of the hammer, combined with the force of the car's coil spring against the lower control arm, will release the stud from the spindle. The nut being in place, prevents the whole deal from exploding apart in your face.
After the stud is released, you can then support the lower a-arm with a jack, disconnect and support the spindle, and CAREFULLY lower the lower a-arm.
A ball joint press will NOT remove this stud from the spindle, but a "pickle fork" MAY do the job.....
Last edited by leadfoot4; 03-10-2018 at 08:43 AM.
#20
Race Director
Further details. You don't want too heavy a hammer. A 1-pound head with a 15-inch handle works best. Cuz you need to Hammerhead moving fast. The three Pound Hammer with a 10-inch handle you'll be beating on it all day.
Last edited by derekderek; 03-10-2018 at 11:00 AM.