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Scott, don't know if you have seen this item.https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...chure-1968.pdf
Car looks great. Did you check for "rotor run out" upon installation of the new rotors ? Just a question not related to your MC issue(s). Would like to know what you find out on the brakes and such.
check it out. When I bought the car, the guy had an original hard copy of that.
Pretty cool!
some good news.
When I was installing the driver side rear brake hose, it just felt like it was stripping, so I went ahead and ordered a new block. I put on the power bleeder and pressurized it. Then saw a slight drip from there. I gave it one more turn and the F-er sheared off!!! So I replaced it with the parts I brilliantly had on hand and used the power bleeder and got a TOOOOOON of air out. Then in took off the calipers and turned them upright to bleed again. Sure enough a few more tiny bubbles cam out.
Now on the pedal is much better. Not quite there but much closer. I will let it rest and pump it again tomorrow and I should be there.
Feeling a bit better.
Check out out the junction block.
Lesson: Do not reuse the brass fittings with new lines!
Last edited by scottjamison; 07-06-2018 at 10:34 PM.
Some success yeah!
after fixing the junction block, I used the Power bleeder again and got out more air.
Letting it sit overnight worked well because it seems to let the bubble rise or something. The brakes are now at about 75% I would say. I am so happy that I am getting there!
Two interesting things happened though:
1) When I was test driving at first, the brakes were so hard they felt unassisted. I looked under the hood and all was fine. But then I found this little cap all the way up by the radiator, sitting on the frame. I couldn’t figure it out at first, but then I realized it was a cap for the 90 degree fitting that goes into the brake booster. I put it back on and the brakes were assisted again. I didn’t even realize those came off. I will be switching to a single piece cap now.
2) I went to the gas station and it wouldn’t start after fueling up. I didn’t want to flood it, so I let it sit for a while. As I sat there, looking fabulous but not running, It would crank and crank but not turn over. I was getting fuel and had power to the distributor, but it wouldn’t turn over. I checked these forums for help. I came across this thread which solved the problem:
I then tried to start it again while unapologetically slamming the throttle to the floor. It roared to life. I already knew I needed a tune, so this solidified that. Thanks again to the help of the forums!!!
Lessons:
1) A power bleeder is the only real way to bleed these blessed brakes
2) Even with that, don’t just bleed them once. Let it sit overnight
3) If your engine just cranks and cranks when it is hot, floor it. Then go get it tuned.
I think I will bleed it one more time today (because my day just isn’t complete without bleeding these bloody brakes),and declare success. I am still taking it into the shop next week to a place that specializes in muscle cars for a full once over and a tune though.
Some success yeah!
after fixing the junction block, I used the Power bleeder again and got out more air.
Letting it sit overnight worked well because it seems to let the bubble rise or something. The brakes are now at about 75% I would say. I am so happy that I am getting there!
Two interesting things happened though:
1) When I was test driving at first, the brakes were so hard they felt unassisted. I looked under the hood and all was fine. But then I found this little cap all the way up by the radiator, sitting on the frame. I couldn’t figure it out at first, but then I realized it was a cap for the 90 degree fitting that goes into the brake booster. I put it back on and the brakes were assisted again. I didn’t even realize those came off. I will be switching to a single piece cap now.
2) I went to the gas station and it wouldn’t start after fueling up. I didn’t want to flood it, so I let it sit for a while. As I sat there, looking fabulous but not running, It would crank and crank but not turn over. I was getting fuel and had power to the distributor, but it wouldn’t turn over. I checked these forums for help. I came across this thread which solved the problem:
I then tried to start it again while unapologetically slamming the throttle to the floor. It roared to life. I already knew I needed a tune, so this solidified that. Thanks again to the help of the forums!!!
Lessons:
1) A power bleeder is the only real way to bleed these blessed brakes
2) Even with that, don’t just bleed them once. Let it sit overnight
3) If your engine just cranks and cranks when it is hot, floor it. Then go get it tuned.
I think I will bleed it one more time today (because my day just isn’t complete without bleeding these bloody brakes),and declare success. I am still taking it into the shop next week to a place that specializes in muscle cars for a full once over and a tune though.
Overall, I feel victorious!
Congratulations ! And thanks for the information as I'll be doing the same at some point ( hopefully before I'm 80 ).
This weekend was really the first weekend I got to take her out since having the carb tuned. I had so much fun cruising Alki beach. Then we went to the car show in my town and ended up showing it. Everyone loved it.
Just read your whole thread! Love all the hard work you've put in. One minute detail I think I noticed way back was no seals between the radiator and support. Did I just not see them, or if your car is not running hot, I wouldn't worry about them.
Just read your whole thread! Love all the hard work you've put in. One minute detail I think I noticed way back was no seals between the radiator and support. Did I just not see them, or if your car is not running hot, I wouldn't worry about them.
Do you mean the brackets holding the radiator in? They have the stock style rubber insulators.
If not, give me a little more description so I understand.
It it runs nice and cool with the huge radiator and big fans but I’m always happy for suggestions!
No there are some rubber air dams (for lack of a better term) that are used to seal up the gaps around the core support to make sure that all incoming air gets forced through the radiator. If your big block is running cool without them, then it may not be an issue for you. Some combinations seem to not be able to function without them due to radiator/fan/engine/climate issues.
No there are some rubber air dams (for lack of a better term) that are used to seal up the gaps around the core support to make sure that all incoming air gets forced through the radiator. If your big block is running cool without them, then it may not be an issue for you. Some combinations seem to not be able to function without them due to radiator/fan/engine/climate issues.
The fans are mounted right to the radiator. That forces the air through it.
When those things come on there is no hope but to chill out.
I do have two things I want to do next in the following month or so.
1) The brakes are still not where I need them to be, so after talking extensively to Wilwood, I have ordered a vacuum pump. My engine vacuum is super low at idle (5Hg) and I need more like 18-20. This pump will give me that. It was either that or switch to a full manual set up. (Any thoughts on this are certainly welcome).
2) I will be switching to the Holley Sniper EFI system. The carb is just so finicky, especially with no choke. Right now it is running great, but I want the reliability, timing control, and the better drivability. I will do the throttle body, ignition, and gas tank all together.
Oh and I've got a wicked rattle in the center part of the dash that I need to find before I go crazy from it.
Last edited by scottjamison; 08-06-2018 at 12:13 PM.
Converting the car over to the Holley Sniper EFI was pretty easy for the most part. I also changed the ignition and fuel tank.
Because of the cam I have, it did need an professional tune to be 100%.
This video is of the dyno run after tuning. It topped out at 485hp and 514 ft-lbs of torque at the rear wheels. Outstanding.
Damn good numbers! Going off of those RWHP numbers, I'd say your 496 is making a good bit more then 550hp at the crank. Assuming a 15% parasitic loss, (which is extremely low for a C3), puts you around 570-575chp.... But on my experience, I bet you're making a bit more. Depending on how good your exhaust is, your fan setup and what accessories you are spinning, I could easily see 18-20% loss for a manual C3. That would put you close to 600 chp.
Damn good numbers! Going off of those RWHP numbers, I'd say your 496 is making a good bit more then 550hp at the crank. Assuming a 15% parasitic loss, (which is extremely low for a C3), puts you around 570-575chp.... But on my experience, I bet you're making a bit more. Depending on how good your exhaust is, your fan setup and what accessories you are spinning, I could easily see 18-20% loss for a manual C3. That would put you close to 600 chp.
600hp is such a nice round number! ��
It certainly feels a bit more powerful. I need to train it a bit so the throttle doesn’t come on like a Thor’s hammer!
it is much smoother at lower rpm, better throttle response and the cold start are sooooo nice. Just turn the key and let it do it’s thing!
Last edited by scottjamison; 11-30-2018 at 03:10 PM.
Congrats, great numbers! Your dyno video looks like a twin to mine. Mine made 490 at the rear wheels (auto trans.) and my crank horsepower was 628. So you definitely have a 10 sec. car there.
I'm curious to know how your Ecklers hood initially fit the car at the fender corners and I assume the body shop handled fitting it to the car? Asking because mine fit like garbage, and at 700$+ lets just say that disappointing doesn't even start to express my sentiments about their fiberglass (also had a rear panel that wasn't even close to fit the car)...spent way too much time fixing their "lack luster" to where I think a $450 ebay speciall would have been about the same (leaving 300 bucks for beers lol)...mine when it lined up with the fenders all around, the corners of the hood were 1/2 " to high in comparison to the fender corner, even with the corner trim on... I see yours seems to fit much better but, sometime the angle of the picture can show more or less issues...just curious great looking car you have!
Last edited by mirage2991; 11-30-2018 at 09:33 PM.
I'm curious to know how your Ecklers hood initially fit the car at the fender corners and I assume the body shop handled fitting it to the car? Asking because mine fit like garbage, and at 700$+ lets just say that disappointing doesn't even start to express my sentiments about their fiberglass (also had a rear panel that wasn't even close to fit the car)...spent way too much time fixing their "lack luster" to where I think a $450 ebay speciall would have been about the same (leaving 300 bucks for beers lol)...mine when it lined up with the fenders all around, the corners of the hood were 1/2 " to high in comparison to the fender corner, even with the corner trim on... I see yours seems to fit much better but, sometime the angle of the picture can show more or less issues...just curious great looking car you have!
Yeah it was pretty far off when I got it. When I had it painted they had to do some work but I am going to have the whole exterior done next winter so it will be perfect after that.
When I got my hood delivered the shipper had damaged it and broken a tip off. I had to get it fixed. ecklers paid for it but it was irritating.
07-05-2018, 11:43 PM
Some success yeah!
great looking car you have!