71gary

my 71 lights go off & on when the snow melts I will get it in the shop and put relays and some new wiring to fix the problem

Douglas Brown

Sounds good: What was the cost, If I may ask??

DUB

Not that this matters,

But hopefully the company you buy this kit form is offering a relay that can be a sealed unit and protected from water, dirt,etc. IF you plan on installing these relays under the hood.

And YES...I am aware that many of the relays and electrical components connectors on your car are not protected from dirt and moisture....but that was how it was done back then. On today's cars...they are basically all protected due to GM learned their lesson.

I have done this on several cars and I use the GM relays that have the weatherpac connectors that have silicone seals on them to prevent water from getting into these relays and connections. I use GM part # 14089936 relay. This relay can handle the current load due to it is the relay GM went to and it also powers up the cooling fans ...which take a lot more current than headlights.

And not that is matters...but I splice into the wiring harness right near the back edge of the left inner skirt so I can mount these relays on the back wall of the left inner skirt and keep them protected even more and yet still accessible for service if needed.

DUB

Douglas Brown

Good information. I will look into it. Thanks.

theandies

Good suggestion on waterproof connectors but not really necessary if the relays are placed in the appropriate location.

I installed my relays (Bosh style) at the same level and in front of the horn rely way up on the wheel well and I can tell you it NEVER gets wet there.

My car is my daily driver so it sees a lot of rain. Just the other day I drove home from work in a storm that dropped 6 inches of rain in less that 24 hours so that was a gusher (my new rainproof car cover worked GREAT!).

Just solder and shrink wrap the connections and it will be fine under the hood without water proof connections. If you are really worried about it you could splooge (technical term) some RTV on the bottom side of the relay base.

EDTI - DUB I'm not trying to start anything as your insight to our cars is invaluable.

Richard454

I used a Voltage regulator box- to hide and waterproof them-




Or one of these could work out really well-about $40

I'd use better relays... blade sized circuit breaker as well

Douglas Brown

WOW..6 ''of rain...as far I have seen 2.36" of rain here since Jan 2018
That includes snow water content.

I guess I am a fair weather driver. I like the Splooge idea. I will be tapping into the power (Bat term at Alt.) mounted the pair of relays on fender well opposite alt. Will be tying into the light wires tomorrow.
Thanks for the help

Douglas Brown

That is some fancy equipment there. Have not seen anything like that here....Some times I miss Las Vegas and all the shops to forage through.

Douglas Brown

Here is what I have come to under stand about the problem
The Switch as sold is rated 15 amps breaker inside to protect the circuit.
(which by the way is what showed, burned and repaired, when I got the car. It burned all the wire harness ,bumper to bumper)
I have "WAGNER 2C1 H5006 & 1C1 H5001" lights
The Low/High beam 2C1 on low is designed to draw 2.73 amps. x 2 lights = 5.46 amps.
will not effect the switch breaker.
The HIGH beam circuit affects the 2C1 low/high and 1C1 high beam bulbs.
The 1C1 draws 3.91 amps x 2 bulbs = 7.82 amps AND the High side of the 2C1 low/high bulb also draws 3.91 amps x 2 bulbs = 7.82 amps
This results in a total of 15.64 amps draw on a 15 amps breaker.
I have asked around for the old style sealed beam headlights and I am told can not get them. Maybe from special vendors at about say $25. ea.

Just about finished with the install, it's not pretty, just has to work.

DUB

No worries. There is...as they say...more than one way to skin a cat.

I have seen people repair their Corvette using wire nuts for a house and taping them with electrical tape. I do not pass judgement on how a person repairs their own Corvette...I may comment on how I feel about it...but in the end...it is always up to the person doing the work. But I do hold myself to a standard that I MUST not waver on due to I have to fix it if it fails...and I do not have the time to do something over again when I know i can do it the best way possible the first time due to seeing the progression on what GM has a done to improve the way components last in areas where they can be effected by dirt, moisture, heat etc..

DUB

Greg

I can't tell you how many Corvette dash panels I have removed and found that semi-melted headlight connector. I know you've seen them too. Seems to be VERY common. My current car had the same condition when I was reassembling it. I installed a new headlight switch and found as soon as I used the high beams, I would start to get the "flicker" in about 5 minutes.
I decided to add the relays last night. They are only 7 or 8 bucks at the parts store, two in-line 30 amp fuses (also very cheap), a couple feet of wire and less than one hour to install. I took power right from the alternator and it was very close to the headlamp harness to tap in to the switch as well.
Flicker is gone but the best part, my headlights are NOTICEABLY brighter!
I highly recommend this easy and affordable upgrade to every owner here. Could save you from a real melt-down later.

theandies

I suggest not using fuse but inline blade type circuit breakers. And check your state regulations regarding using fuses on headlights. Some only allow self resetting CB's

This is what I use:



After some calculations I determined 20Amp leaves enough margin and not too close to may running current with all 4 lamps lit. I'm running halogens at all 4 spots.

Peterbuilt

The cradles must be installed this way only:
Looking at the front of your Corvette they are C B D A

Douglas Brown

I put (2) 30 amp fuses in line. but do like the idea of CB's.
Thanks.

Douglas Brown

Got the right ones installed. makes a difference.
thanks

71gary

I went with speeddirect wiring harness, I had to order some suspension parts also, the hard part was taking off the hood I have 13.8 volts at the lights with car at idle and no lights going off and on. summer is good and I can stay out after dark

vince vette 2

Have a similar problem to what was noted in the first post of this thread. Sometimes when I turn the hi-beams on they don't light. If I lightly bang on the headlight housing they come on and stay on. The problem only seems to occur when the lights are first turned on which of course includes them opening. I am guessing this is a ground issue somewhere. Since banging on one of the housings, driver's side I believe, fixes this I assume it has to be in there somewhere and common to both hi-beams. Any guidance as to where to look?

DUB

You did not state that when you turn your headlights on...IF the low beams are coming on.

And when you switch to high beams...I am assuming ALL of the headlights are out.

I would remove the headlight switch and check it . You may have a bad terminal. Or an internal problem in the switch.

DUB

vince vette 2

Yes, when I turn them on the low beams work and when I hit high beams all lights drop out. However, since I can get the hi beams to come on by smacking the light housing, i.e. the flat top cover that drops flush with the body when the lights are retracted, I figure it is either a connection or ground either in the headlight housing itself or close to it. Just wondering where that might be.

DUB

My fault. I thought I read you hit the headlight switch. Sometimes my eyes read the words but my brain has a fart.

I would say that if you are having to hit the headlight door..you have a problem in the connection a the headlight or wiring..

That is now something that you are going to have to find...but at least you know where to kinda start looking.

DUB