Which poly bushings are my best bet?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Which poly bushings are my best bet?
Hey guys, which poly bushings are the best to go for for the C3? My original rubber bushings and body mounts are all rotted out.
Car is a 79 with 18" wheels, Bilstein sport shocks all around, VB&P 550 lb front springs, 360 lb. composite rear spring.
I hear good things about Energy Suspension, but they seem to be the most expensive. Curious whether the cheaper brands are just as good.
Also, standard Red ES bushings? Or the Graphite impregnated black bushings?
Car is a 79 with 18" wheels, Bilstein sport shocks all around, VB&P 550 lb front springs, 360 lb. composite rear spring.
I hear good things about Energy Suspension, but they seem to be the most expensive. Curious whether the cheaper brands are just as good.
Also, standard Red ES bushings? Or the Graphite impregnated black bushings?
#2
Team Owner
There have been some recent discussions, on this Forum, stating that there are issues with polyurethane bushings deteriorating. My interpretation of this, is that one, or more, of the "private label" suppliers are getting 2nd rate parts, possibly from "offshore" suppliers.
I rebuilt the suspension of a 1979 Corvette, back in the mid 90s. It was my wife's car, a car she had owned since new. I used the "private label" polyurethane bushings, because I was also buying some other parts from this supplier, and it was easier to create one large order. During the 3-4 years after the installation, the time that we owned the car, everything was still OK.
On the other side of the coin, in a number of other cars that I've owned/worked on, I used Energy Suspension bushings. I was always pleased with their performance. With regard to color, it's just a SWAG (scientific wild assed guess) on my part, but I thought the formulation of the red bushings was a tad more compliant than the black ones. Therefore, I used the red bushings for my street cars.
I rebuilt the suspension of a 1979 Corvette, back in the mid 90s. It was my wife's car, a car she had owned since new. I used the "private label" polyurethane bushings, because I was also buying some other parts from this supplier, and it was easier to create one large order. During the 3-4 years after the installation, the time that we owned the car, everything was still OK.
On the other side of the coin, in a number of other cars that I've owned/worked on, I used Energy Suspension bushings. I was always pleased with their performance. With regard to color, it's just a SWAG (scientific wild assed guess) on my part, but I thought the formulation of the red bushings was a tad more compliant than the black ones. Therefore, I used the red bushings for my street cars.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
There have been some recent discussions, on this Forum, stating that there are issues with polyurethane bushings deteriorating. My interpretation of this, is that one, or more, of the "private label" suppliers are getting 2nd rate parts, possibly from "offshore" suppliers.
I rebuilt the suspension of a 1979 Corvette, back in the mid 90s. It was my wife's car, a car she had owned since new. I used the "private label" polyurethane bushings, because I was also buying some other parts from this supplier, and it was easier to create one large order. During the 3-4 years after the installation, the time that we owned the car, everything was still OK.
On the other side of the coin, in a number of other cars that I've owned/worked on, I used Energy Suspension bushings. I was always pleased with their performance. With regard to color, it's just a SWAG (scientific wild assed guess) on my part, but I thought the formulation of the red bushings was a tad more compliant than the black ones. Therefore, I used the red bushings for my street cars.
I rebuilt the suspension of a 1979 Corvette, back in the mid 90s. It was my wife's car, a car she had owned since new. I used the "private label" polyurethane bushings, because I was also buying some other parts from this supplier, and it was easier to create one large order. During the 3-4 years after the installation, the time that we owned the car, everything was still OK.
On the other side of the coin, in a number of other cars that I've owned/worked on, I used Energy Suspension bushings. I was always pleased with their performance. With regard to color, it's just a SWAG (scientific wild assed guess) on my part, but I thought the formulation of the red bushings was a tad more compliant than the black ones. Therefore, I used the red bushings for my street cars.
Thanks for the input!
I believe "red" is the standard poly, and "black" is the graphite impregnated (supposedly helps reduce squeaks that Poly bushings are known for)
#4
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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I have the Energy Suspension poly's. Pleased with them so far.
There are also horror stories out there with cheapo rubber bushings so lets not harp on the poor quality of poly bushings.
There are also horror stories out there with cheapo rubber bushings so lets not harp on the poor quality of poly bushings.
#5
Much improved handling with 550 springs & new shocks
#6
Graphite impregnated black if you want to reduce squeaks.
I have "prothane brand" bushings everywhere. Same VB&P Street & Slalom suspension, car is used for track days. (1978)
5 years and all are still in great condition.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...2-bl/overview/
I have "prothane brand" bushings everywhere. Same VB&P Street & Slalom suspension, car is used for track days. (1978)
5 years and all are still in great condition.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...2-bl/overview/
Last edited by cagotzmann; 04-23-2018 at 09:07 PM.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
For those of you with the ES bushings, did you go with the standard Red, or the graphite impregnated black?
If you went Red, do you have any squeaking? How often do you lube them?
#8
I went with ES black bushings all around. I only have about 1K miles since the A-arms and everything else was rebushed, but it's definitely not squeaky. When I installed them they were lubed going in. They will not be re-lubed.
#9
Team Owner
I refer to this lube as "elephant snot", as it's rather slimy, and sticks to everything. It is, however, an excellent lubricant, and it's VERY sticky, so it won't wash off. However, the little bit that they include, isn't really enough, to slather all the surfaces, bushings, sleeves, and mounting bolt shanks, with a good coating of it. Therefore, I strongly suggest that you purchase an additional container of the lube.
#11
#12
Le Mans Master
Poly
Whatever you do, DO NOT use poly in the trailing arm bushings. I have replaced both sides in my 68 and 66. They turned to glass and fell out. A few of my friends had the same bad luck. I purchased mine from two different vendors. Also, DO NOT replace the rear end mounting bushings with poly either. They are too thin. The poly mount made the drive shaft universal in the back hit the floor of the tunnel when I had a passenger in the car. I used poly motor and transmission mounts in my 70 SS Chevelle and the engine fan hit the shroud. I replaced them with factory rubber and all is well. Do a search of poly here and in the C-2 forum for more info. PM me if you want to buy the motor/transmission/rear mounts. Mine are almost new. Jerry
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Whatever you do, DO NOT use poly in the trailing arm bushings. I have replaced both sides in my 68 and 66. They turned to glass and fell out. A few of my friends had the same bad luck. I purchased mine from two different vendors. Also, DO NOT replace the rear end mounting bushings with poly either. They are too thin. The poly mount made the drive shaft universal in the back hit the floor of the tunnel when I had a passenger in the car. I used poly motor and transmission mounts in my 70 SS Chevelle and the engine fan hit the shroud. I replaced them with factory rubber and all is well. Do a search of poly here and in the C-2 forum for more info. PM me if you want to buy the motor/transmission/rear mounts. Mine are almost new. Jerry
So for those of you with ES bushings in your rear end and trailing arms, have you had this problem?
#14
Race Director
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Weird. I see people yell about whatever you do dont use poly in trailing arms it will do this or that, then some racer will pop in and say he uses them in trailing arms and has auto crossed it 10 plus years with zero issues,
The bottom line is some poly bushing are trash and some are great, and its short sighted tosay all are trash just because....
Btw im going Johnny joint in my trailing arms
The bottom line is some poly bushing are trash and some are great, and its short sighted tosay all are trash just because....
Btw im going Johnny joint in my trailing arms
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mobird (04-26-2018)
#16
Le Mans Master
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So, I have been told by the experts on here to not use poly for the rear strut rod bushings.
Either use rubber or heim joints.
Just passing that on.
Either use rubber or heim joints.
Just passing that on.
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mobird (04-26-2018)
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mobird (04-26-2018)
#20
Race Director
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F4Gary
So, I have been told by the experts on here to not use poly for the rear strut rod bushings.
Either use rubber or heim joints.
Just passing that on.
Originally Posted by F4Gary
So, I have been told by the experts on here to not use poly for the rear strut rod bushings.
Either use rubber or heim joints.
Just passing that on.
I know 2 maybe 3 guys on here i consider "experts" they seldom post but i cannot count how many pound there chests and list in about every post they make why they are experts at least in their own minds,
Last edited by The13Bats; 04-25-2018 at 09:42 PM.