Hood Latch Won't Stay Latched
#21
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Thread Starter
Just an update: Running the car with no hood weatherstrip has been non-problematic. It totally solved my issue.
Good luck with your latch. In case you need one, you can buy a hood latch alignment tool from Ecklers for $23. Part #: 25-455585-1 ... in case you need one.
Good luck with your latch. In case you need one, you can buy a hood latch alignment tool from Ecklers for $23. Part #: 25-455585-1 ... in case you need one.
#22
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Just an update: Running the car with no hood weatherstrip has been non-problematic. It totally solved my issue.
Good luck with your latch. In case you need one, you can buy a hood latch alignment tool from Ecklers for $23. Part #: 25-455585-1 ... in case you need one.
Good luck with your latch. In case you need one, you can buy a hood latch alignment tool from Ecklers for $23. Part #: 25-455585-1 ... in case you need one.
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/?yt=&s=hood+tool
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 12-11-2018 at 08:00 PM.
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Parodi Cigar (12-13-2018)
#23
Burning Brakes
Just to add, my 68 had the same problem. Like DUB said the issue is flex where the pin bolts into the body, as I understand it the problem is worse in 68s. Messed around for awhile, made the tool and adjusted per the manual but still had problems. Finally, just for the hell of it, adjusted it in the opposite direction than I thought was correct and voila, the problem essentially went away. Still pops open on big hits but not nearly as bad as it once was.
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Willcox Corvette (12-13-2018)
#25
Instructor
fuel line
I thought I'd post a follow-up to my original post about my 1968 C3 driver's side hood latch that would not stay latched (in case anyone else might find this useful)...
Through the Forum, I found out that a 1969 driver's-side latch could be modified to work in my '68. So, I replaced my worn latch with a '69 latch. I then replaced both male lock assembly parts and the latch-to-latch cable. Still popped open.
Then an epiphany ... I removed the too-fat weather strip. Viola! Perfect function!!!!!!! I cannot make the latch pop open by hitting a bump! It seems that the too-fat weather strip was causing the entire issue!
Now .... does anyone have a recommendation for a thinner weather strip? I know the weather strip helps keep engine heat off the cockpit and also protects the firewall components from water (no a problem here in Arizona, however).
Is anyone out there running a car with no hood weatherstrip? If yes, any issues?
Through the Forum, I found out that a 1969 driver's-side latch could be modified to work in my '68. So, I replaced my worn latch with a '69 latch. I then replaced both male lock assembly parts and the latch-to-latch cable. Still popped open.
Then an epiphany ... I removed the too-fat weather strip. Viola! Perfect function!!!!!!! I cannot make the latch pop open by hitting a bump! It seems that the too-fat weather strip was causing the entire issue!
Now .... does anyone have a recommendation for a thinner weather strip? I know the weather strip helps keep engine heat off the cockpit and also protects the firewall components from water (no a problem here in Arizona, however).
Is anyone out there running a car with no hood weatherstrip? If yes, any issues?
use desired thickness of fuel line=whatever works for your car; cut down one side with razor to flatten and then glue in place; tricky but works
#26
I went with a different method of ensuring that I can always open my hood and make sure the latches won't pop open. Aerocatch flush mount hoodpins.
Aerocatch hoodpin install
Aerocatch hoodpin install