KMCAMPBELL

2mnyvets

I think sleeving is an aftermarket "fix" for pitted caliper bores.

DUB

NO. It depends if the calipers on the Corvette have been replaced WITH calipers with stainless steel sleeves.

The pistons have nothing to do with it...and they are not stainless steel. They are aluminum..

DUB

Bikespace

Once you get them apart, you will be able to see the stainless steel sleeves, if they are present. If they are, go ahead and rebuild them.

If the sleeves are not present, send your calipers in as cores and get a set of sleeved, rebuilt calipers. I got a set of Lonestar sleeved, rebuilt calipers with o-ring pistons via Zip on the 79. They work great so far. I was able to install, bleed, and run them all on the first try. It cleared up a non-functioning caliper issue. It turns out I had four different calipers on the car from piecemeal repairs in the last 40 years. Now they all match.

Here's a similar thread on the subject. Post 19 has an image.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-calipers.html

jb78L-82

Glad to hear all went well. I say this all the time that if the calipers will not bleed the first time easily, then there is something wrong with the brake system, calipers, bearing run out, MC etc...It is not the corvette C3 brakes being "junk".

DUB

This statement is misleading. Just because the caliper MAY have stainless steel sleeves in them DOES NOT necessarily mean that they can be rebuilt easily.

The amount of groove or wear in the sleeve will let you know that. Which is why I won't rebuild them any longer unless a person is willing to pay me to do so.

If the groove is bad enough..the time to hone out the sleeves are not worth it. Maybe for a DIYer it is.

But I pretty much can guarantee that a person is not going to be able to just throw new seals in the calipers....especially if the calipers have any significant run time on them.

But I am sure someone will come in and say that they did not have to do anything but put in new seals in on 30 year old calipers....and all I can say to that is...."A blind squirrel can also be lucky enough to find a nut from time to time."

DUB

KMCAMPBELL

Well, i think ill try and take a look once i get them off and decide it new calipers are the way to go, it would be less bothersome.Thanks for the advice.

DUB

You will not know until you take a look.

DUB

KMCAMPBELL

DUB

Just keep in mind that routine service to the brake system is WISE. And by that I mean keeping up on the condition of the brake fluid.

Or all the money you just invested and go bad again sooner than later if it is neglected.

For what this is worth;

When I do a brake system and this includes a new master cylinder so the entire system is new and fresh. I make sure that customer knows that every 6 months or so they need to check the condition of the DOT3 brake fluid. If it starts to look like iced tea and the fluid is getting dark looking. That is the time to get it out. The longer it sits in the system and looks like strong coffee...the worse it gets and then it begins to create sludge ....which is NOT GOOD on the new seals....and can cause for wear on the sleeves of the calipers and cause a problem.

DUB

revitup

I don't know about every 6 months but I don't worry about the condition of my brake fluid except every 2 years or so. Whatever it looks like I'll change it. Motive bleeder, no muss no fuss. I've never had a problem bleeding brakes even after removing and reinstalling the MC. I must be living right. OEM system though, lip seals. No fancy brake components.

vince vette 2

If you're not doing a body off restoration prepare to have fun with the line running from the prop valved to the rear splitter. It has to run through the center frame cross member and meanwhile run up and over the rear cross member while making a mix of 90 degree and some less angle bends. It can be done, but it's a real pain. I achieved it once but found that the line itself was really not the proper length and didn't look too good once it had a couple extra bends in it to make it fit. That coupled with poor fits every where else led me to strip the new ones out and send the originals in to have a matching pair made. I had one modification done though. I had them make the prop valve to rear splitter line in two sections with a coupling fitting. It made life a whole lot easier getting it installed. As long as you don't plan on building a show car having the modified line is not an issue.

One other item, I don't recall when they started putting cruise control in. If your 74 doesn't have it then this next comment is irrelevant. But for what it's worth, when cruise was added to the cars they had to reroute the lines from the master cylinder to the prop valve. Even though I ordered lines specifically for an '80 vette, the lines I received were of the older, pre cruise control style. As my cruise transducer in on installed, I had the liberty of running the lines through the mount but this still required reforming them - a limited option on stainless tubes. Had the transducer been in there they would not have worked at all. The online images from many brake line sources do not show the properly shaped lines for cruise equipped cars. It may just be they don't have the correct photos for them. But since at least one major maker sent me lines which were not correct don't be surprised if what you get isn't right, if you have cruise. I do know Lone Star's set is correct as I saw it at Carlisle a couple years ago. But Lone Star doesn't sell direct except at shows. So you'd have to know if the dealer you buy from is selling Lone Star parts.

DUB

I did not say to change the fluid every 6 months. I said to check it. People can leave their brake fluid in for years if they want to. The main thing... in my opinion is to get brake fluid that is turning dark OUT of the system...and if it takes 2 years in your car for it to do that...then i guess that person knows when they need to service the fluid.

Inline tube is where I buy my lines and they fit.

YES..the rear line can be a BEAR...and the there are tricks to putting it in and getting it connected to the rear junction block. Unfortunately I can not cut the line and install union. Regardless if it is a show car or a street driver.

DUB

vince vette 2

When you say you cannot cut the line and install a union, are you saying you cannot do it yourself, or it just shouldn't be done?

revitup

He's just saying it's not good practice to install unions in brake lines. Brakes are too important to introduce an additional potential point of failure. A professional repairer (I think he is) may be prohibited by some standard practice regulation, I don't know. In reality I'm sure it's done by DIY'ers all the time with little consequence, if done correctly.

DUB

I have the tools to double flare, bend lines and all that stuff. So it isn't that I cannot do it.

I just DO NOT do it due to liability reasons. Because IF I buy a line that is made like the original that is not CUT in half. And I install a union where one did not go originally. I choose not to have to deal with these two extra connections and the liability I have now added to the repair.

Simply put..I can install this brake line without needing to cut it to do so..I do not need to worry about it.

What all of you chose to do to your car is up to you.

DUB

vince vette 2

Thanks for the explanation. Likewise, I did get the full length line installed. Perhaps more difficult for me as I have some pretty primitive conditions to work in - basically car on blocks which limits the height I can get safely. It's just a shame the lines did not fit well as they came from a well known maker, Classic Tube, To their credit they offered to replicate my original set for $50 + shipping. The remade ones fit far better. As mine were the originals for the car what they sent to me the first time should have matched. I don't know where they got their patterns. When I had them remake the lines I had them make the two piece line with the unions. So if there is liability it's on them at least to the extent anyone can be held liable for a part they made but didn't install.

As for my primitive working conditions, they'll improve once I get my rear end and suspension reinstalled and can drive the car again. Then I can move the quicklift I got from spdrcr69 into the garage and finally have some maneuvering room.

DUB

You had to do what you had to do. I understand that.

As for some of the companies that make these lines. It still amazes me that they do not get a hold of a restoration shop and come in and get the lines RIGHT. This is why I use who I mentioned. Due to I have had nothing but problems out of other companies and when I started buying from who I mentioned. The lines seem to be correct and I do not have to fight them to get them to fit correctly.

DUB

vince vette 2

That's good to know. I take it then that they are good on fuel lines. As plan to replace them within a year I'd sure like something that simply fits.

DUB

Yes..I would say you should have very good luck with them.

NOW..it will all depend on HOW you plan on getting them installed. I know if I voice my professional opinion...it will surely stir up the hornets nest.

SO...do as you wish ...which I already have a feeling I know what that will be....which is fine due to it is your car. I am not passing judgment here.

DUB