Hi torque starter recomendation for a 153 tooth flywheel
05-31-2018, 02:41 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hi torque starter recomendation for a 153 tooth flywheel
When warm/hot, I get that S L O W then normal starter turn on my ZZ4 equipped '69. I'm not sure it's heat sink or what. I even put the '67 exhaust pipe heat shields on but it made no difference. I thought I'd just get one of those small 4x1 hi torque starters and hopefully it'll take care of the problem. Maybe the MSD one? Any recommendations? thanks.
05-31-2018, 03:15 PM
#2
Race Director
i used a proform one and it wasnt very expensive....i am not sure this is one area where you have spend alot to get an improvement
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TWINRAY (06-01-2018)
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05-31-2018, 10:25 PM
#4
I have the Powermaster for 168 tooth on my 1970 L46 and after 1500 miles have been extremely pleased. I did need the diode wire/kit as I am running points, but it was an easy install. Works great.
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TWINRAY (06-01-2018)
05-31-2018, 11:51 PM
#5
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I've used the same Summit "Pro Torque" one on my car for at least 15 years. It's a Nippondenso style and can be 'clocked" to move it away from heat sources as well as it will bolt on to 153 or 168 applications.
JIM
JIM
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TWINRAY (06-01-2018)
06-01-2018, 06:42 AM
#6
Tilton. Great unit, rebuildable, and light. Made in USA.
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06-01-2018, 11:16 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19
Try a voltage drop test at the starter and see what the voltage is when starting on both sides of the solenoid, if less than 10 volts something in the supply is amiss. If voltage is less on the starter side of the solenoid then on the supply you have a solenoid issue. The starter grounds through the body of the starter so make sure you use the body of the starter when doing the test. Then do the test again but this time use the frame as the ground, see if the voltage is the same for both tests. If higher voltage when using the frame you have a ground issue.
Try a large gauge ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame
If its a voltage supply issue you'll have issues with the small starter to.
Neal
Try a large gauge ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame
If its a voltage supply issue you'll have issues with the small starter to.
Neal
Last edited by chevymans 77; 06-01-2018 at 11:18 AM.
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TWINRAY (06-01-2018)
06-01-2018, 02:04 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Try a voltage drop test at the starter and see what the voltage is when starting on both sides of the solenoid, if less than 10 volts something in the supply is amiss. If voltage is less on the starter side of the solenoid then on the supply you have a solenoid issue. The starter grounds through the body of the starter so make sure you use the body of the starter when doing the test. Then do the test again but this time use the frame as the ground, see if the voltage is the same for both tests. If higher voltage when using the frame you have a ground issue.
Try a large gauge ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame
If its a voltage supply issue you'll have issues with the small starter to.
Neal
Try a large gauge ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame
If its a voltage supply issue you'll have issues with the small starter to.
Neal
Thanks, Fred
06-01-2018, 02:07 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I think that's the starter I have. Does that look like a "regular" circa 1969 Delco starter only smaller? I got mine from Pace, it was originally advertised as a new takeoff but it turned out to be remanufactured.
06-01-2018, 02:13 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
I bought a really cheap ebay mini starter for my 64 Impala SS that had heat soak problems. It cured it and worked for many years without issue. I bought a cheap one for my Vette too. Hopefully I'll be just as lucky with this one.
Mike
Mike
06-01-2018, 06:00 PM
#14
Try a voltage drop test at the starter and see what the voltage is when starting on both sides of the solenoid, if less than 10 volts something in the supply is amiss. If voltage is less on the starter side of the solenoid then on the supply you have a solenoid issue. The starter grounds through the body of the starter so make sure you use the body of the starter when doing the test. Then do the test again but this time use the frame as the ground, see if the voltage is the same for both tests. If higher voltage when using the frame you have a ground issue.
Try a large gauge ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame
If its a voltage supply issue you'll have issues with the small starter to.
Neal
Try a large gauge ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame
If its a voltage supply issue you'll have issues with the small starter to.
Neal
Bfit
06-01-2018, 10:45 PM
#15
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I'm using east coast auto electric mini starter. I had many issues finding one that would penetrate far enough to get atleast 3/4 into the teeth of my McLeod flywheel. The GM performance one ate itself while I was breaking in my motor and fried my harness. These starters are able to be rebuilt and you can order the parts right from the company
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eca-2072
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eca-2072
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 06-01-2018 at 10:46 PM.
06-03-2018, 07:12 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
Make sure you get the right bolts for the corvette starter.
Last edited by aworks; 06-03-2018 at 07:14 AM.
06-03-2018, 11:14 AM
#18
Melting Slicks
Agree and thought for you.
I replaced the OEM starter with a mini starter (sorry I forgot brand) and still had problems. Replaced the neg to ground and positive wire from battery to the new mini starter and all problems solved. Apparently when the old wires get hot, resistance goes way up. Suggest you install new battery to starter wire and ground wire too while you are at it. No fun as I got stranded a few times and had to wait a long time to everything to cool off. Hope this helps.
Last edited by 20mercury; 06-03-2018 at 11:16 AM.
06-03-2018, 11:15 AM
#19
Race Director
I ended up with the MSD unit because I got a very good deal on it. I think the Proform is very similar. I was looking for a fair bit f torque as I had a high compression motor at the time. The ability to clock it and rebuild it were bonuses. Buy once we’ll and it should outlast the car.