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2. Will I need other bolts to install the aluminum covers, or will the bolts that are installed on the original L48 valve covers work.
3. I would like to go for a 'valve breather filter element' (like Spectre for example, because then I don't have to make a whole in my new open element air cleaner base.
4. The emblem will need to be replaced, because it is damaged (scratched). How can I get the emblem off (safe and easy)?
What glue do I use to put a new one on?
5. There is some rust on the steel 'breather parts' (don't know what it's called) inside the valve cover (see pic). Do I just leave it like it is? I can't get the rust off on the inside. I tried to get the steel part off, but had no succes.
2. Maybe. Aluminium covers are cast not stamped so the covers are thicker.
3. Measure the breather opening and size to fit. Your pcv system will not function if you use two breathers but that's not a big deal but a lot of folks will say otherwise. I use two breathers, no pcv. Engine runs just fine with no messy oil misting under the hood.
4. Get it off by prying with a small screwdriver? Put the new one on with a dab of silicon.
5. Don't worry about it. Make sure the baffles are secure though.
3. Measure the breather opening and size to fit. Your pcv system will not function if you use two breathers but that's not a big deal but a lot of folks will say otherwise. I use two breathers, no pcv. Engine runs just fine with no messy oil misting under the hood.
The PCV system is only 'using' one valve cover, no? Normally the driver's side? Is it the one where there is one hose running from the valve cover to the carb?
I only was planning to use a breather element on the passenger side valve cover (the one where the hose is connected to the air cleaner).
I will leave the PCV alone.
Or is the PCV system used on both valve covers?
i dont know what year you have but keep the PCV system set up as it was stock for it to work best.
as for bolts to hold it down make sure they dont bottom out before they cinch the valve cover down. thats the easiest way to break the bolts and if they dont break you have a leaky valve cover. measure the depth with a vernier depth gauge or nail.
Use the Fel-Pro 1628 gasket, they cost a little more but are well worth the money. The gasket is reusable and they don't leak.
As for the crossed flag emblem it's just a thick sticker. Peel the old one off an stick the new one on. The emblem has its own adhesive on the back so no need to use anything else. Replacement emblems are available all over eBay for $5.
I installed the same valve covers on my SB last year.
Used the good Fel-Pro gaskets, but couldn't get them to not leak without adding a good bead of RTV in there, especially in the lower corners.
Now they stay dry.
I've heard that these repro parts don't always match perfectly to the mating surfaces, so you sometimes need to help fill the gaps. Same thing occurred for me when I replaced the oil pan. RTV'd the heck out of it, and now I'm dry dry dry!
Use the Fel-Pro 1628 gasket, they cost a little more but are well worth the money. The gasket is reusable and they don't leak.
As for the crossed flag emblem it's just a thick sticker. Peel the old one off an stick the new one on. The emblem has its own adhesive on the back so no need to use anything else. Replacement emblems are available all over eBay for $5.
Sorry but I forgot to say I'm from Europe... So those Fel-pro 1682 gaskets cost €83 ($98).
Isn't that a little bit too expensive for two gaskets? Once the covers are installed I leave them where they are (until I see a leak ofcource).
Sorry but I forgot to say I'm from Europe... So those Fel-pro 1682 gaskets cost €83 ($98).
Isn't that a little bit too expensive for two gaskets? Once the covers are installed I leave them where they are (until I see a leak ofcource).
Is it still worth it in my case?
The 1628 gaskets are worth the price to me. But I can also understand why others would bulk at the price.
It comes down to what's your time worth, what value do you place on ease and reusablity, do you want to guarantee you will have no leaks. If you have leaky valve covers or are concerned about leaky valve covers the 1628 are what you want. If cost is a big issue nothing wrong with cheaper 50 year old technology.
I have the same style valve covers on my small block....I used the 1628 gaskets but the bolts were not long enough because of the thicker gasket....I looked everywhere for the same style bolts just a little longer and failed....I ended up using the bolts out of a side cover off an old 5hp Briggs tiller motor....I had enough laying around from our racing days. I know that doesn't help you much across the pond unless the old lawnmower shops have over there have a few laying around. Not sure what they would cost if ordered state side and then shipped....?
The PCV system is only 'using' one valve cover, no? Normally the driver's side? Is it the one where there is one hose running from the valve cover to the carb?
I only was planning to use a breather element on the passenger side valve cover (the one where the hose is connected to the air cleaner).
I will leave the PCV alone.
Or is the PCV system used on both valve covers?
You are correct the PCV is on the drivers side with the oil filler cap towards the rear. You can put your breather in the hole on the passenger side where the pipe normally goes.
When I had problems sealing the gasket on the passenger side of my old Ford Bronco I got some of this stuff and it sealed like a dream. By then I'd gotten tired of removing and replacing that Ford EFI intake that hangs over that valve cover.....
Permatex 85144 The Right Stuff Grey Gasket Maker, 7.5 oz.
Sorry but I forgot to say I'm from Europe... So those Fel-pro 1682 gaskets cost €83 ($98).
Isn't that a little bit too expensive for two gaskets? Once the covers are installed I leave them where they are (until I see a leak ofcource).
Just an FYI.....
I bought a pair of these just to try out. The holes were slightly mis-aligned, but it was an easy 5 minute fix. I have had zero problems with them and they don't leak a drop.
No glue is needed to install the flag emblem, the repro flag emblems have adhesive on them. All you do is peal off the paper backing and stick the emblem on the cover.
The stock steel valve cover bolts, will likely be to short. The steel covers used a 1/4-20 x 9/16" bolt, while the aluminum covers need a 1/4-20 x 1" bolt.
Originally Posted by Novusuhu
I think mine are original ones (they look very old and used).
See pic of the stamps inside the valve cover.
Weren't they on the L82 engines? Original ones should fit good, no?
Your covers do appear to be original GM valve covers.
That style finned aluminum cover was used on 69-70 350/350's, 70-72 LT-1's, 73-77 L-82's, as well as 69-74 Z/28 Camaros. You shouldn't have any issues with the way they fit.
What size of PCV valve will fit the alu covers? Can I use the original one that is installed on the steel valve covers?
Is it OK to use SS bolts for the valve covers? (I had immense problems to get some rusted steel bolts out... I just wan't to prevent those problems in the future.)
Do I have to use retainers like they are installed on my steel covers?
Did you do the painting on your firewall? If so what paint did you use? I’ve been detailing under my hood and I like the tone and sheen of the black on your firewall.
Originally Posted by Bergerboy
I installed the same valve covers on my SB last year.
Used the good Fel-Pro gaskets, but couldn't get them to not leak without adding a good bead of RTV in there, especially in the lower corners.
Now they stay dry.
I've heard that these repro parts don't always match perfectly to the mating surfaces, so you sometimes need to help fill the gaps. Same thing occurred for me when I replaced the oil pan. RTV'd the heck out of it, and now I'm dry dry dry!
The aluminum covers use different grommets, than the steel covers. The aluminum is thicker, so the slots in the grommet are thicker. The grommets from the steel covers won't fit.
The left and right grommet are different, since one is for the PCV, and the other is for the air cleaner breather tube. All of the Corvette vendors sell them, for about $3 to $5 each.
The first picture is of the left (PCV) and right (breather) grommets used in factory aluminum valve covers. The second picture shows the difference in the thickness of the groove in the aluminum cover grommets (top), verse the steel cover grommets (bottom).
What size of PCV valve will fit the alu covers? Can I use the original one that is installed on the steel valve covers?
All PCV's are the same diameter, so use the one that's recommended for your engine.
Is it OK to use SS bolts for the valve covers? (I had immense problems to get some rusted steel bolts out... I just wan't to prevent those problems in the future.)
I see no reason why you couldn't use stainless hardware for the valve covers.
I'm a little surprised to hear that you had issues removing valve cover bolts. I've never had any issues with them being rusted, and hard to remove. I usually have the opposite problem, keeping them tight enough that they don't leak.
Do I have to use retainers like they are installed on my steel covers?
No, the retainers are only needed with the steel covers. The retainers spread the force of the bolts, across a larger area of the thin steel covers. The aluminum covers are rigid enough that the retainers aren't needed.
06-07-2018, 07:49 AM
Vintage 'crossed flags' finned valve covers
