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Alternator/battery drain issue??

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Old 06-13-2018, 08:50 PM
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Highlander1732
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Default Alternator/battery drain issue??

Thanks in advance for the insights: I recently threw a loose alternator belt that also took the PS belt with it. I was able to make it home on the battery (about 5 miles) with manual steering. The belt whipped around and scarred my hood insulation and bent the fan in the alternator. I bought a new alternator but the Auto Zone guy presented me with two options at the time: A 63A and a 61A. He looked at the parts and said the 63A (Delco Remy) was the correct one so I took it home, installed it and the car started and ran. The next day, I get in the car, turn the key and...nothing. I thought possibly I damaged the battery when I ran it home with no alternator so I took the battery out, ran up to NAPA had it bench tested and they said it was so bad, it disn’t even register on their tester. New battery from NAPA. Took it home, installed it and the car started and ran fine showing “charge” on the ammeter. Problem solved. Get in the car today, turn the key...nothing.

I am 99% sure the new alternator is installed properly as I took photos and there are only really three connections. What could cause my system to drain down entirely with no key, ignition off. Your help is appreciated for things to check.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Highlander1732 View Post
Thanks in advance for the insights: I recently threw a loose alternator belt that also took the PS belt with it. I was able to make it home on the battery (about 5 miles) with manual steering. The belt whipped around and scarred my hood insulation and bent the fan in the alternator. I bought a new alternator but the Auto Zone guy presented me with two options at the time: A 63A and a 61A. He looked at the parts and said the 63A (Delco Remy) was the correct one so I took it home, installed it and the car started and ran. The next day, I get in the car, turn the key and...nothing. I thought possibly I damaged the battery when I ran it home with no alternator so I took the battery out, ran up to NAPA had it bench tested and they said it was so bad, it disn’t even register on their tester. New battery from NAPA. Took it home, installed it and the car started and ran fine showing “charge” on the ammeter. Problem solved. Get in the car today, turn the key...nothing.

I am 99% sure the new alternator is installed properly as I took photos and there are only really three connections. What could cause my system to drain down entirely with no key, ignition off. Your help is appreciated for things to check.
a bad diode in the alternator would charge the battery when running and then discharge the battery when turned off.....an auto parts store can check the alternator in the car
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:58 AM
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Thank you, I think will have to have that checked out.
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:23 AM
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What year is your corvette???

And how did this second alternator do during the test???

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Old 06-14-2018, 08:12 PM
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Default Looks lime I’m headed back to the store...

Thanks all for the input. I took the replacement alternator back to the local parts store where they bemch tested it and discovered that the Chinese re-man was indeed “defective”. They swapped it for anothet which I promptly broughr home and broke!! I was able to bring the new battery back from the dead with a 10A quick charge (on trickle now but reads as charged). The new, new alternator was clocked wrong with the plug in the 3 o’clock position so I promptly took the housing apart, pulled the innerds and let the bushings fly. I got everything back together with a paper clip holding the bushings back, moved the housing so the plug would be in the 12 o’clock position and started reassembly. I even added just a touch more synthetic grease to the shaft bearings just to be sure. Naturally, the housing didn’t easily drop in so I offered a slight assist with my palm to seat it. The shaft didn’t spin as easily as before I took it apart and when I looked through the rear of the housing where I had the paperclip holding the brushes, I could see a cockeyed brush?! Took it apart (again) and discovered the armature was likely hung up on a brush, so when I “assisted” it, I forced the brush to bust up the ceramic brush housing...I’m an idiot (applaud now...). Anyhoo, I’ll be turning it in to the parts store as a core and trying to find one that has the plug at 12 o’clock. On a side note, I have come to the tealization that even though the fan on my original unit is the only thing compromised, it won’t go back in the car. Going to keep it in a box until I part with the car I think.
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:18 PM
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Default Excuse my lame spelling

I am typing very slowly on my phone as I write this because I just re-read my last post and discovered that my thumbs move a bit too quickly and practically every “r” is a “t”. No, I’m not going to parts store for limes or anything of the sort...haha. Love this forum!
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet View Post
a bad diode in the alternator would charge the battery when running and then discharge the battery when turned off.....an auto parts store can check the alternator in the car
That was indeed the issue. I hate getting bad re-man stuff. It’s enough of a hassle to do the job the right way the first time, let alone twice. I appreciate your correct diagnosis
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:06 PM
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well look at the bright side....we know its a bad alternator
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:34 AM
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If in your area you have an electrical shop that rebuild alternators or starters...that is where I would suggest you take the alternator....just in case the NEXT one is bad also.

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Old 06-15-2018, 01:15 PM
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Some parts stores have brush holders and some other small parts for alternators. Or, as DUB said, find a rebuild local to you. They will have the brush holders around.
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:05 PM
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All you need is a good paper clip that has been straightened out enough to hold back the brushes. No need to buy a tool on that one...and I am a 'tool *****'.

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