sunflower 1972

Photo is the driver side rear camber bolt. I have almost 2* negative camber on the left rear. See the yellow line? Do I turn the yellow line toward the 3 o'clock or the 9 o'clock position to reduce the negative camber. I sucked at geometry. Thanks.

MelWff

towards the 9 O'clock position will pull the bottom in and you have a mark on the bracket that maybe is supposed to be aligned with the mark on the cam.

revitup

There isn't much adjustment left there. Don't know if you're going to affect the camber much toward less neg. Are the bushings in good shape?

Mooser

You've got 2deg negative camber with that setting on the cam? Moving it to the 9 will not bring it in a whole lot. Are the bushings (at the strut/shock mount) OK?
M

He types faster

revitup

You said it better.

Gunfighter13

Start looking for worn or damaged parts. Adjusting the cam will not help.

sunflower 1972

That's what I was afraid of. This all started late last year when I replaced the lower control arm bushings. As long as I was there, I replaced the coil springs with Corvette Central 460lb springs. Those springs raised the front end about 4 inches, fine if you want to go off roading. No problem, I cut 1 1/2 coils off which put the front wheel opening just above the tire. Looked great, but changed the front alignment geometry. Also caused a light, twitchy steering feeling at speed. Put offset upper control arm shafts to fix the negative camber. Slotted the shafts to increase negative castor. Longer rear spring bolts. Those screwed up the IRS geometry. Left rear camber -2* along with 1/8 inch toe out. Right rear camber is -3*, but toe is 1/16 in. Bought a rear trailing arm bolt and shim kit not realizing how much of a PIA those are. So, I just ordered Moog 5758 front coil springs and try and put it back to stock ride height, hoping that will fix the problems I created for myself. Thanks to everyone who replied to this and all the other threads I made to try and fix this. You all have been very helpful.

'75

Hey, I'm just over in McHenry, I could come over and take a look at it with you or bring it to my place, I have a 2 post lift, and see what all is going on.
Dean

revitup

I have the same issue as I have neg 1 degree on the left rear with no adjustment remaining. I was pretty sure my strut bushings were good but I replaced them anyway. The poly bushings I took out looked like the day I put them in 9 years ago. Next task will be to replace worn yokes (about 1/8" of play) and see how much that helps. Doesn't seem like it'll get me much though. You might want to take a look at those also.

MelWff

You state you installed longer rear spring bolts but dont state whether they are 8" or 10".
In addition how did you adjust the ride height?
Are you aware that with a full tank of gas and the simulated weight of a driver the difference in height between the inner end of the strut rod and the outer end of the strut rod is 1 1/4"? That difference places the half shafts at the ideal angle relative to the ground.

sunflower 1972

Thanks Dean, that's very kind of you but, I have a friend in Ingleside that has 6 toys (including a C3 And C4) who has a lift also and has been helping me. I had it over at his place and he helped with lower control arm bushings, ball joints and coil spring replacement. Hey, when I take the vette out for a drive (not so much so far this year) I always drive around and through McHenry, so if you see me toot your horn! Neil

sunflower 1972

Thanks for the ideas, although I feel pretty confident if I put it back to the stock ride height all will be good. Prior to replacing the coil springs, the car drove rock solid at 75 mph.

ezobens

Metalhead140

Check your diff yokes.

sunflower 1972

Yes, that's probably me. After making suspension adjustments, that's my test drive run.
Main to Garland to Gossel to Old Gilmer to Callahan back to Main. Sometimes I change it up and run it backwards!

Mooser

If you don't want to get in too deep at this point, changing to the adjustable strut rods will give you more room to pull that camber back.

I wonder if this is why sometimes the alignment guys bend those bottom rods. Personally I always figured they couldn't loosen the adjuster cams or didn't know how they worked but I guess it's possible when they ran out of adjustment (due to worn yokes, bushings, etc) maybe, just maybe they bent the arms to get more caster out.

M

sunflower 1972

Actually, I bought the heim joint adjustable strut rods in addition to the trailing arm bolt and shim kit. I wasn't too concerned with the rear negitive camber I had. I was more concerned with the 1/8 to 3/16 toe OUT, causing my loose, twitchy steering at speed. Unfortunately, I purchased those items while my C3 was hibernating, not realizing how much of a PIA they are to loosen. And I'm sure that's exactly why they bent the strut rods. It was quick and easy.

MelWff

I always thought the bent rods were caused by someone jacking the rear up by the center of a strut rod.