Beginners Fuel Line Replacement
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Beginners Fuel Line Replacement
Last week, my goal was to change out my brake lines (see https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locked-up.html). During the process, I found that a fitting was rounded off and I was stuck. I jumped on the forum, and posted the update, asking for input.
Afterwards, I started reading other threads on the forum and came across one titled, "Fuel Line Fabrication.” (There are some amazingly talented people out there…) While reading it, it reminded me of something else on my list of things to do to my car: My fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor had a rubber piece spliced into it right at the top of the engine. I knew that was a recipe for disaster and should be changed.
In that thread, Lars commented and invited the poster to email him for his “How to Build a Fuel Line” article. Knowing I might be doing that myself, I emailed Lars and asked him for the article as well, explaining what my issue was and including the picture below.
Lars confirmed that the current setup put my car at risk, kindly sent me the article, and suggested I simply buy a replacement fuel line from one of the vendors as it would be cheaper than fabricating my own.
[Side note: So many people on this site go out of their way to help others, giving advice over the phone, creating free documents, picture tutorials, etc. KingRat, Lars, DUB, HeadsU.P., Alan 71, doorgunner, GTR1999, Ernie of Willcox Corvette, Painfully Slow…for the sake of space I'll stop here—there’s just too many to list! The old school part of me wishes I could meet these people in person and shake their hands. In that spirit, I’m listing what I did along with the few pics I did take, to help those that might benefit.]
I ordered the line last Thursday and received it within 2 days. I later picked up the fuel filter from NAPA Part, # 3051. Yesterday my wife was out running errands and I had some time, so I figured I’d see what was involved in installing it.
I removed the air filter assembly, plugged the breather opening in the valve cover and covered the carburetor both with plastic wrap.
For the purists out there, you may find this interesting. I thought I would check the code on my carb.
My carb is original to the car. The carburetor was built on May 04, 1970 (“1240” The 124th day of 1970). The " 7040204 FF” indicates: First 2 digits say the carb is a 1966-1975 model; third digit says, ’70-‘75; fourth digit says, “1970;" Fifth digit says, “four-barrel Q-Jet;” sixth digit says, “Chevrolet;” seventh digit indicates, “Automatic.”
Onward…
With the new filter in hand, I started by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor, removing the old fuel filter and replacing it. I used a small crescent wrench to loosen and then hold the filter housing fitting, while I used a 5/8” line wrench to loosen the fuel line fitting.
Although I had put rags down, more fuel than I expected came out, soaking through and pooling on the intake manifold. Lesson learned: have more absorbent material under the housing. I cleaned that mess up and continued.
Under the car, I pinched off my new fuel hose connected to the sending unit, then proceeded to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump.
I allowed the remaining fuel to drain, and then completely disconnected the line. I pulled the old fuel line down while I was down there, which was easy, with flexibility the rubber splice provided. Second lesson learned: the lip of the lower control arm will hold alot of fuel, so I quickly created a ramp out of cardboard to divert the fuel into my container as it drained and later drained the control arm “trough" of fuel.
At the top of the engine, I attempted to snake the new line down to the fuel pump, but it just wasn’t happening. Approaching it like a puzzle, I tried a few different things, but finally gave up and moved back under the car with the line. From there, I snaked the line up into the engine bay, and that also presented some problems, although after a few starts and stops was able to route it into place. I connected it at the pump, just snugged. I thought that was the hardest part… well I was wrong. At the top, I wasn’t able to maneuver the fuel line far enough back to get it to mate with the filter housing. All kinds of things were in the way. (The pic below shows it after installation, but shows what was in the way.) I ended up bending back the adjustable tab that holds the vacuum line pictured, gently moving the tab out of the way.
I very soon realized that the fact that the line was fastened at the pump was preventing me from having enough play above to correctly position the line at the carburetor. I disconnected it and that was the key. I finally got the line attached at the top, tightened both connections at the end and will start the car and check for leaks once the car is back on all 4 tires.
For those of you with experience, please let me know what I could have done better, or more efficiently. Thanks!
Afterwards, I started reading other threads on the forum and came across one titled, "Fuel Line Fabrication.” (There are some amazingly talented people out there…) While reading it, it reminded me of something else on my list of things to do to my car: My fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor had a rubber piece spliced into it right at the top of the engine. I knew that was a recipe for disaster and should be changed.
In that thread, Lars commented and invited the poster to email him for his “How to Build a Fuel Line” article. Knowing I might be doing that myself, I emailed Lars and asked him for the article as well, explaining what my issue was and including the picture below.
Lars confirmed that the current setup put my car at risk, kindly sent me the article, and suggested I simply buy a replacement fuel line from one of the vendors as it would be cheaper than fabricating my own.
[Side note: So many people on this site go out of their way to help others, giving advice over the phone, creating free documents, picture tutorials, etc. KingRat, Lars, DUB, HeadsU.P., Alan 71, doorgunner, GTR1999, Ernie of Willcox Corvette, Painfully Slow…for the sake of space I'll stop here—there’s just too many to list! The old school part of me wishes I could meet these people in person and shake their hands. In that spirit, I’m listing what I did along with the few pics I did take, to help those that might benefit.]
I ordered the line last Thursday and received it within 2 days. I later picked up the fuel filter from NAPA Part, # 3051. Yesterday my wife was out running errands and I had some time, so I figured I’d see what was involved in installing it.
I removed the air filter assembly, plugged the breather opening in the valve cover and covered the carburetor both with plastic wrap.
For the purists out there, you may find this interesting. I thought I would check the code on my carb.
My carb is original to the car. The carburetor was built on May 04, 1970 (“1240” The 124th day of 1970). The " 7040204 FF” indicates: First 2 digits say the carb is a 1966-1975 model; third digit says, ’70-‘75; fourth digit says, “1970;" Fifth digit says, “four-barrel Q-Jet;” sixth digit says, “Chevrolet;” seventh digit indicates, “Automatic.”
Onward…
With the new filter in hand, I started by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor, removing the old fuel filter and replacing it. I used a small crescent wrench to loosen and then hold the filter housing fitting, while I used a 5/8” line wrench to loosen the fuel line fitting.
Although I had put rags down, more fuel than I expected came out, soaking through and pooling on the intake manifold. Lesson learned: have more absorbent material under the housing. I cleaned that mess up and continued.
Under the car, I pinched off my new fuel hose connected to the sending unit, then proceeded to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump.
I allowed the remaining fuel to drain, and then completely disconnected the line. I pulled the old fuel line down while I was down there, which was easy, with flexibility the rubber splice provided. Second lesson learned: the lip of the lower control arm will hold alot of fuel, so I quickly created a ramp out of cardboard to divert the fuel into my container as it drained and later drained the control arm “trough" of fuel.
At the top of the engine, I attempted to snake the new line down to the fuel pump, but it just wasn’t happening. Approaching it like a puzzle, I tried a few different things, but finally gave up and moved back under the car with the line. From there, I snaked the line up into the engine bay, and that also presented some problems, although after a few starts and stops was able to route it into place. I connected it at the pump, just snugged. I thought that was the hardest part… well I was wrong. At the top, I wasn’t able to maneuver the fuel line far enough back to get it to mate with the filter housing. All kinds of things were in the way. (The pic below shows it after installation, but shows what was in the way.) I ended up bending back the adjustable tab that holds the vacuum line pictured, gently moving the tab out of the way.
I very soon realized that the fact that the line was fastened at the pump was preventing me from having enough play above to correctly position the line at the carburetor. I disconnected it and that was the key. I finally got the line attached at the top, tightened both connections at the end and will start the car and check for leaks once the car is back on all 4 tires.
For those of you with experience, please let me know what I could have done better, or more efficiently. Thanks!
Last edited by ZRXGreen; 07-22-2018 at 08:20 PM.
#2
Race Director
You did good. Don't let your heater hose rest on the fuel line. If there's no way around it wrap one or both is some type of insulation. I used a piece pipe insulation on mine...
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ZRXGreen (07-22-2018)
#3
Drifting
Nice job...I just did this project on my 72 small block....I thought I didn't have any leaks but if fact I did have a very slow leak, it would only show up after a short drive around the block....Might not hurt to double check.
Brian
Brian
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ZRXGreen (07-22-2018)
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
A couple things I forgot to add. Lars suggested lightly greasing both ends of the new line, to assure proper torque and to eliminate any galling of the threads, which I did. Afterwards, I put the two green caps back on the ends of the new line before I snaked it through the engine bay to prevent anything from messing up the threads or getting into the line. I didn't think to blow through the line to double check that nothing was in there when it arrived, but I probably should have.
#6
Race Director
SUPER glad to see you took the initiative to replace this cut fuel line. Many people would not have.
Nice job on getting it installed and I also run into the issues of fishing it down and rotating the line to get it to go where it needs so I can connect it to the pump and carburetor.
Very good air space between the heater hose and fuel line..
Job well done.
DUB
Nice job on getting it installed and I also run into the issues of fishing it down and rotating the line to get it to go where it needs so I can connect it to the pump and carburetor.
Very good air space between the heater hose and fuel line..
Job well done.
DUB
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ZRXGreen (07-23-2018)
#7
Le Mans Master
A couple things I forgot to add. Lars suggested lightly greasing both ends of the new line, to assure proper torque and to eliminate any galling of the threads, which I did. Afterwards, I put the two green caps back on the ends of the new line before I snaked it through the engine bay to prevent anything from messing up the threads or getting into the line. I didn't think to blow through the line to double check that nothing was in there when it arrived, but I probably should have.
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ZRXGreen (07-23-2018)
#8
Once again, it's amazing how useful this forum is for a novice like me! This is the EXACT project I'm getting into and trying to find instructions on, so locating this thread with photos and detailed description was a dream. Thank you ZRXGreen!
In my case, the existing fuel line has been bent and configured to meet up with a 1980 truck carb. When I went a couple days ago to switch the carb for a correct one that Lars just rebuilt for me, I could not get the fitting and threads to line up. And I mean I tried hard for at least a couple hours last night... I finally gave up and ordered the line from Paragon.
The main concern I had was with fuel loss during this process. Part of me assumed the pump would act as a "valve" and not allow fuel to bypass once you disconnect the fuel line down there (I honestly don't know). Is that false? ZRXGreen said he pinched off the fuel hose, so unless I hear otherwise I will take his lead and do the same.
In my case, the existing fuel line has been bent and configured to meet up with a 1980 truck carb. When I went a couple days ago to switch the carb for a correct one that Lars just rebuilt for me, I could not get the fitting and threads to line up. And I mean I tried hard for at least a couple hours last night... I finally gave up and ordered the line from Paragon.
The main concern I had was with fuel loss during this process. Part of me assumed the pump would act as a "valve" and not allow fuel to bypass once you disconnect the fuel line down there (I honestly don't know). Is that false? ZRXGreen said he pinched off the fuel hose, so unless I hear otherwise I will take his lead and do the same.
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ZRXGreen (02-15-2023)
#9
Pro
One trick I learned on this forum; to make attaching the carb end of the line easier, remove the four hold-down bolts from the carb to give it a little wiggle room. Then reattach the carb after the fuel line is secured. One of my cars came with a rubber line in that same place which did break, spewing gasoline all over the place. Lucky for me it happened in the garage on a cold engine!
Charlie
Charlie